21 replies to this topic

[Saber]

Last trip it started shutting down.  Engine would would quit, lights would go out, gage light out,  all at the same time.  Wait a few minutes, would start, run for 10 to 20 seconds quit.  Sometimes even shorter.  Towed to a garage where I store it for the riding season.  Next day, no reaction to pressing starter button.  No gage lights, no clicking noises, nothing.  Checked battery voltage, 12.5 +.  Jumped battery, nothing.  Checked fuses.  Removed relays and warmed them replaced nothing.

 

The fact that the gages are not sweeping seemed to be a big indicator.  I'm thinking I will trailer it home to heated garage and melt it dry.  Obvious things to check are the the little red wire at the + battery terminal. test the relays.  Relook at the fuses.

 

I can't really work on it much where it is, but it seems like the fix will turn out to be easy.  Be nice to fix it on sight and be able to use it.

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

[scarpint]

A relative easy thing to look at and address in the hopes it solves your issue.  Remove and clean all the ground wire connections.  There are several on the 1200. 

[HotRodLincoln]

Sounds like a loose ground cable.

[Bowana]

Sounds like a loose ground cable.

The one by the battery box is the most common one to come loose if I recall.

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[sloan188]

My buddy had something similar happen to his. The first time it was a relay (the top one), the second time it was a contact in the fuse block and the third time it was a fuse (2nd one in from right 1st row under the relay).

[Go Fast or Go Home]

The one by the battery box is the most common one to come loose if I recall.

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That one and also check the battery connections themselves.

 

Don~

[Rob Ski]

A loose connection on the positive side of the battery will give the same symptoms.

[Regaw5]

Check battery cable ground by the right side footwell. There is supposed to be a washer on it with a bunch of bumps sticking out that keep it tight. If that is missing it'll come loose

[Jrps]

Check your battery voltage and voltage at the fuse box at the same time. I had a bad positive battery cable causing a voltage drop at the fuse box. My machine acted like you described. Replaced the cable. All good now.

Edited by Jrps, Yesterday, 06:59 PM.

[stealth bomber]

Have seen the fuse holder for the main 30 or 40 amp fuse burn up on numerous 900 and 1200 sleds.  The fuse may look fine but the connection to the fuse can be burned up. 

[CanGadeX]

Check fuses if suspected with an ohm meter

[ffemt]

Main ground off the negative cable, sled side behind muffler. had it happen to me this week same symptoms , take apart cleaner it up with wire brush


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[Saber]

Thanks for the input.  Here is my plan.

 

Sled is in a unheated garage 3 hrs from home.  Drive there with tools and trailer.

Check as follows:

Pull main fuse and meter check.  Also check connectors.

Replace starter relay with a know good one.

Check battery connections especially small positive red wire.

Check ground connection at battery box.

remove handle bar pad and disconnect kill switch. Not sure if it is "open" when pulled up.

Check fuses F1,F2,F9

 

If none of that leads to a solution.  Tow home melt out ice and snow in engine compartment due to towing and check other grounds.  Then using service manual, work thru all the tests in the electrical system.

 

Did i miss anything?

[Bowana]

Thanks for the input. Here is my plan.

Sled is in a unheated garage 3 hrs from home. Drive there with tools and trailer.
Check as follows:
Pull main fuse and meter check. Also check connectors.
Replace starter relay with a know good one.
Check battery connections especially small positive red wire.
Check ground connection at battery box.
remove handle bar pad and disconnect kill switch. Not sure if it is "open" when pulled up.
Check fuses F1,F2,F9

If none of that leads to a solution. Tow home melt out ice and snow in engine compartment due to towing and check other grounds. Then using service manual, work thru all the tests in the electrical system.

Did i miss anything?

Sounds like a good plan.
In regards to check the fuses in the fuse box, you can use your ohm meter and confirm continuity without removing them if the fuses have small holes on top. Just prob the fuse and move on to the next one seeing you are going to be in an unheated shop.
If you can pull the fuse block itself you can then work on the back side of each fuse connector and see if something is loose causing intermittent connection.
Hopefully you can take a battery charger to make sure the battery is up to snuff or a mini booster.
Good luck.

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[1sfurness]

The main fuse and fuse holder coming from the positive side of the battery have been known to corrode and blow the fuse... I would be checking there first...