60 replies to this topic

[Meat Head]

Anyone finding a good trick to make the 21 x suspension transfer. Been all over the map trying to get some hook up, no real success. Sled is slowish because of said reason. So far I'd take the old rmotion back.
Spent the day switching back in forth between years and what a negative it has been owning the x.
Great trail sled don't get me wrong, just slow and slightly boring without significant transfer.
So speak up if you have a secret.

[xdude]

I’m with you on this. I moved mine to the more transfer position and I like it there better. But man when I jump on my ‘17 it’s like putting on and old shoe. 

[Meat Head]

I’m with you on this. I moved mine to the more transfer position and I like it there better. But man when I jump on my ‘17 it’s like putting on and old shoe.

For sure. It affects power delivery alot. Today I put down trenches all over the gaylod area.. the old skid just squats and goes.
Was thinking about modified rubber stopper for the transfer blocks. Seems like the best place to start as of now.

[xpsllho]

What about longer limiter strap? I also hate how much it spins vs hooks and goes. 

[Meat Head]

What about longer limiter strap? I also hate how much it spins vs hooks and goes.

It has alot of slack, so I dismissed it as a possibility. But you may be on to something. Pull it off to see how much more travel the front shock has left for travel. Be worth the time to know.
I did tighten it one hole at first looking for more top speed. Certainly the wrong direction for transfer, mixed with the 25 tooth it was a spin fest through 80 on a ice rd with new studs.
Only way it transfers well so far, stand all the way to the back like a retard... it will transfer at that point, just not practical.

[xdude]

For sure. It affects power delivery alot. Today I put down trenches all over the gaylod area.. the old skid just squats and goes.
Was thinking about modified rubber stopper for the transfer blocks. Seems like the best place to start as of now.

Im assuming you are on 1 with your blocks at this point?  If you’re thinking of modifying the rubbers, why not just remove them?

[ren]

For sure. It affects power delivery alot. Today I put down trenches all over the gaylod area.. the old skid just squats and goes.
Was thinking about modified rubber stopper for the transfer blocks. Seems like the best place to start as of now.

What track do you have?


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[calrcn]

Storm 150 and mega bites helps the 0-106 on the speedo with my 21 renegade xrs. It is the handling in the tight woods that sucks is the reason I have put my 2000 miles this year on my 2020 and only 1650 between me and my wife on the 21. The changes may have helped the super highway corners but it just won’t pivot like my 2020.

[Meat Head]

Im assuming you are on 1 with your blocks at this point? If you’re thinking of modifying the rubbers, why not just remove them?

On one for sure. Was a good trick on the xp chassis, you could flip the rubbers out of the way while still bolted. Was going to remove half the rubber thickness to start.

[Json]

Remember Bill Cudney said to grind of a couple mm's and drill a new hole for the rubber stopper, that was on the Rev chassis. Might still work.

[Meat Head]

Maybe brp will market and sell a transfer kit for those who find there sleds to be boring to ride now. Certainly not a good future selling point so far.
Some pretty smart guys here, just trying to drum up what needs to happen moving forward to add the excitement back to this sled. Low snow at home has made it difficult to try new things so far.

[djm]

Maybe brp will market and sell a transfer kit for those who find there sleds to be boring to ride now. Certainly not a good future selling point so far.
Some pretty smart guys here, just trying to drum up what needs to happen moving forward to add the excitement back to this sled. Low snow at home has made it difficult to try new things so far.

 

You have to raise the front mounting point.  Or lower the rear, of the front arm staying on the same arc  or radius of the arm.  Moving the front bracket is probably pretty straight forward, adding a third hole in the rail might take a bit more ingenuity.  You have to raise the instant center the skid works around, to plant the track harder.

[Meat Head]

Pulled the coupling block rubbers, on a quick measure I see no real gains at that end. Maybe 2mm before you can hear and feel the springs not being happy as you force travel.

[RAB123]

You have to raise the front mounting point.  Or lower the rear, of the front arm staying on the same arc  or radius of the arm.  Moving the front bracket is probably pretty straight forward, adding a third hole in the rail might take a bit more ingenuity.  You have to raise the instant center the skid works around, to plant the track harder.

 

How far up you think to notice a difference ?

 

I wonder can you un couple the rear susp ?

[Jeb©]

Anyone finding a good trick to make the 21 x suspension transfer. Been all over the map trying to get some hook up, no real success. Sled is slowish because of said reason. So far I'd take the old rmotion back.
Spent the day switching back in forth between years and what a negative it has been owning the x.
Great trail sled don't get me wrong, just slow and slightly boring without significant transfer.
So speak up if you have a secret.

interesting, my 21 transfers so well in the high transfer position I am tempted to set it back to the low transfer. limiter stock, heavier tender ctr,300psi ctr and rears springs on 2. Love this rear skid.