18 replies to this topic

[EricSki]

I got my clutch out finally and on its way to the shop for an inspection. I noticed the secondary has a bit of play as in I can rock it back and fourth about a quarter inch without it turning the drive shaft. Is this normal? I ended up keeping the sled and getting it in tip top shape.

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[EricSki]

Got the clutch out with y'all's advice. It wasn't that bad to do

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[LETMGROW]

What are you referring too as the driveshaft? The one the clutch is mounted on (commonly called a 'jackshaft' or the driveshaft under the sled which drives the track?

[EricSki]

The shaft the secondary clutch drives, the one it is mounted on

[gun-driver]

If I understand you right it’s normal that’s the play in the chain. Lock the brake and it should stop.

[EricSki]

Nah.... The secondary clutch will rock back and fourth on the shaft it is on, without moving the shaft. It's not chain play.

[LETMGROW]

Something is worn. It could be the key or the key way in the shaft.or the key way in the clutch.

You will have to remove the clutch to check this out. Remove the bolt and washers which hold the clutch into place on the shaft keeping track of the shims and spacers. The clutch should slide right off. Now you can inspect the key and the key ways  for wear. One key way in the clutch and one in the shaft.

Lynn

[EricSki]

Something is worn. It could be the key or the key way in the shaft.or the key way in the clutch.

You will have to remove the clutch to check this out. Remove the bolt and washers which hold the clutch into place on the shaft keeping track of the shims and spacers. The clutch should slide right off. Now you can inspect the key and the key ways  for wear. One key way in the clutch and one in the shaft.

Lynn

I'll do that.... I pulled up and down and the shaft itself seems to be good and not chucking in the bearings. I'll give it a look.

[EricSki]

I didn't want to start another thread, so I'll put it here.

 

Looking for a clutch rebuild kit for my TRA 2 off of a 1998 Formula Z 670, if anyone has a kit they want to sell or know of a good place to get one. Mainly interested in just doing the rollers and slider shoes for now.

 

I decided to do it myself, because the place I wanted to do it charges 90 an hour and they can't get to it for a week. I want to test drive this sled out soon and done farting around, before the snow goes.

 

I heard SP1 and EPI suck for aftermarket kits and prefer real SkiDoo parts, but any aftermarket you all say is good, I'll bite and get it. If anyone has one to sell, let me know....Stock please, no performance springs or any of that....My experience is limited right now, but I feel I can rebuild this clutch, it doesn't look to be that hard. I already have it nice and clean with a gallon of greaser.

 

Thanks, guys..

very helpful to me.

 

Eric.

[LETMGROW]

It depends on what you need to bring the clutch back to usable condition. Parts are available from BRP. I refuse to use aftermarket parts in a clutch. At a minimum I would replace the spring, the sliders and 'O' rings in the governor. If there isn't excessive play in the bushings to the shafts they ride on they should be alright. The faces can be cleaned with brake cleaner if you use a detergent and hot water afterward. If they are clean enough to eat off from they aren't clean enough.. Then polish the faces with fine "Scotch-Brite".

Use no lubricant on anything. The bushings and buttons are self lubricating.

Watch a couple "You Tube" videos on disassembly and reassembly and take special note of the essential tools required to service a TRA clutch. You will need a spring compressor and the set of three forks to hold the slider buttons into place when reassembling the clutch. The spring compressor is for compressing the large calibration spring so you can remove and reinstall the three bolts which hold the spring retainer into place. DO NOT attempt to take those three bolts out without a spring compressor. You will never be able to eat corn on the cob or an apple again if you do. A set of dentures will run between 4 and $6,000 plus dental surgery. Broken noses and eye surgery cost what the market will bear. Fingers are optional.

There are also videos available on how to make your own spring compressor on You Tube. Check them out beforehand.

If I sound like a mean old Grandpa, I am. If you don't follow my advice please send a picture of the results. Wash the blood off first though.

Check the parts diagrams to be sure the correct ramps are in the clutch now. I believe they should be marked 286 and the spring should be part #415015300 with a violet / yellow stripe on it. These springs weaken some over time and will affect the performance. Replace it now.

Good Luck,

Lynn

[EricSki]

Lol it's all disassembled, nothing in there seems broken or bent, just dirty and the rollers might be a little wobbly, but not broke. I can now see how these things work, pretty simple. Thanks for the scotch brite tip. I would think it would put a little "bite" back into the clutch.

[LETMGROW]

Lol it's all disassembled, nothing in there seems broken or bent, just dirty and the rollers might be a little wobbly, but not broke. I can now see how these things work, pretty simple. Thanks for the scotch brite tip. I would think it would put a little "bite" back into the clutch.

You don't want 'bite' in the clutch. Just to remove any small imperfections. Anything less than smooth will shorten belt life. If you looked at a new clutch you would see the faces are perfectly smooth.

If the rollers have a lot of play it would be best to replace them along with the spacers. They normally don't go bad or get loose unless the clutch has been run dirty a long while. Dirt of any form is a clutch's worst enemy. Clutches require periodic maintenance including a through cleaning. The more often the better.

Lynn

[EricSki]

Here is the condition of my clutch. I'm thinking about just cleaning it well and putting it all back in, so I can get this thing fired up and see if it actually moves. No hard riding, just a couple of soft cruises before the snow goes, and it may be soon. Possibly this summer I will do a total rebuild on everything. The parts in this clutch don't look broken or really wore out, but it's not like I'm an expert. I'm good enough to tell if it's shot though and I don't think it is.

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[LETMGROW]

Is it just the picture or is that a groove in the face of the clutch in the second picture with you holding the clutch half?

[David H]

Is it just the picture or is that a groove in the face of the clutch in the second picture with you holding the clutch half?

I'm with you, Lynn.  Those faces are in rough condition.  Maybe savable but need work.  Thought the first photo shows fractures...fixed sheave.