600 SDi HO running on 1 cylinder, then not at all! - REV Chassis - Performance and Trail Models - DOOTalk Forums

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600 SDi HO running on 1 cylinder, then not at all!


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#1 Robaniemi

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 07:53 AM

Hi all,

 

Was out for a short ride. Everything was fine, until I restarted after a break.

 

Sounded/felt like it was running on 1 cylinder.

 

Nursed it home - maybe 2 km - and when I tried to put it into reverse to park it, it stalled and now won't start at all.

 

When I press the grey [RER?] button:

 

Sometimes nothing happens at all.

 

Sometimes I hear the fuel pump start up, with no lights on the dashboard.

Sometimes I hear the fuel pump start up and all the lights show on the dashboard.

 

It has a new battery and was running perfectly before.

 

I see lots of threads on this, but haven't really found an answer.

 

Any advice on how to troubleshoot greatly appreciated.

 

I'm going to start by checking the battery....

 

Many thanks,

 

Rob



#2 12/3

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 08:25 AM

You're right about starting with the battery. You mentioned it was new but I've seen new batteries be faulty too. It's rare but it does happen. Check all of your grounding connections and let's get consistent power to the sled before we go further. Keep us posted.

What the mileage on the sled? Do you know the history or did you just buy it? Welcome to dootalk!

#3 TwoRevs

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 09:28 AM

I had an sdi in here 2 weeks ago and the owner put a new battery in it and it ran for a while then started having problems. 

I found he had the capacitor hooked to the positive post instead of the negative on the battery.

Switched it and charged the battery and it has been fine since.

 

just sayin



#4 Robaniemi

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 09:46 AM

Thanks guys.

 

Bought the sled about 3 weeks ago. It's done 15,000km, which is around 9,500 miles.

 

Done quite a bit of "safety" maintenance - new battery, cleaned the clutch, adjusted the belt, changed the gear oil, spark plugs etc etc.

 

Just tested the battery and it's giving 12.6 volts, so it's not brilliant.

 

Before I changed the battery, the old one was giving a similar reading, but when the engine was running, it gave 14.5 volts.

 

I've also swapped out the dreaded relays, as I was getting the infamous random engine cut out.

 

I also checked the earth to the engine block, and that was good. What other earths should I check?

 

I put the battery on charge, and will see what tomorrow brings.......

 

Will check the capacitor wiring as well when I put it back on, but I'm pretty sure it was right.

 

I'll let you know what happens when the battery is back on.

 

Thanks,

Rob


Edited by Robaniemi, 20 February 2021 - 09:47 AM.


#5 Robaniemi

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 02:37 PM

Fully charged, battery is reading 13.43v.

 

So, there's something screwy with either the battery or the charging system.

 

But is it what's stopping it from starting.

 

I'll find out in the morning, I guess............



#6 Robaniemi

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 03:30 AM

OK, so tried it this morning.

 

Battery at 13.5v.

 

Started up on the 2nd pull, but it sounds really rough - like it's missing.

 

Battery is at between 14 & 14.5 v when idling, but it is idling very low - like 1000rpm.

 

Also, the ignition startup doesn't work all the time.

 

Sometimes I get nothing.

 

Sometimes I get the fuel pump buzzing.

 

Sometimes I get the fuel pump buzzing, and the lights come on.

 

I'm wary of testing the plugs by holding against the block, as a friend says these things are quite delicate and it could damage something. How DO you test for spark? Is it safe to just hold the plug against the block/head?

 

However, I pulled the plug leads off one at a time, and each time, the engine stalled.

 

So that indicates that it's not just misfiring on one cylinder.

 

It looks like there are 2 different problems.

 

I'm going to take the battery back tomorrow and get them to test it.

 

And now, I'm also beginning to wonder if I put the wrong bloody fuel in it. I added around 7 litres, at which point it was full.

 

Any help greatly appreciated. We have lots of snow, -15 degrees C [5 degrees fahrenheit] and beautiful sunshine. I'm missing out on some great driving weather!


Edited by Robaniemi, 21 February 2021 - 04:12 AM.


#7 Robaniemi

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 04:06 AM

One thing I should add.

 

When I bought the sled, the recoil starter was dodgy - it took ages for the rope to go back in.

 

I replaced the spring and the pawl, and it worked for a bit, but now is a bit hit and miss.

 

I rebuilt it again. The spindle of the housing had been butchered previously, so the hat shaped collar was too tight.

 

I filed the spindle down very carefully, and it was much better then. But now it's gone bad again.

 

I've been reading that possibly there's a crank position sensor in that area.

 

I wonder if the pawl has come apart and damaged something? Is the crank position sensor even in there? I can't find anything about it online, or in the BRP parts page.



#8 Robaniemi

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 07:45 AM

Checked the manual, and it said it's OK to hold the spark plug against the head to check for a spark.

 

So, I did that, and I've got a spark on both of them.

 

I've read somewhere that the lights should come on for 30 seconds. Mine only come on for 3 or 4 seconds [if they come on at all!!]. Is that wrong?

 

The engine seems very easy to turn over on the clutch, so now I'm worried about compression problems.

 

There is definitely resistance there, but it doesn't seem like very much....................

 

Like I said, I'll get the battery checked, but will also borrow a compression tester and see what that tells me.

 

Next thing I guess is to check fuel. What's the best way to go about that?



#9 Robaniemi

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 11:24 AM

Compression is just under 140 in both cylinders. I believe that is a good reading?

 

Pulled the connector off the DESS and it looks quite corroded.

 

Going to let it all dry out and clean it up.

 

Battery test from the supplier tomorrow.

 

Any other suggestions!?



#10 TwoRevs

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 11:38 AM

Pull the relays and check for corrosion on those connectors



#11 Robaniemi

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 12:03 PM

Pull the relays and check for corrosion on those connectors

Thanks. I already replaced the relays, but it's a good point to check the connections anyway.

 

Will do.



#12 Robaniemi

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 02:11 AM

Battery tested OK.



#13 Robaniemi

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 03:29 PM

So, had a look at the sled this evening.

 

The connector to the DESS was quite corroded. Cleaned it up, but no difference.

 

I managed to start it a couple of times, but still running rough. Now it won't fire at all.

 

When I press the RER button and the lights come on and the pump spins up [this doesn't always happen], the lights go off after a couple of seconds and the check engine light flashes. Is that right?

 

Pulled the fuse box out and there are a couple of semi-crushed wires under there, but I don't think they are touching earth. Will check/repair them properly tomorrow.

 

Went to pull the pipe off the fuel filter and found some weird kind of clip on there. What's the best way to check I'm getting fuel?

 

Please guys! I really need some assistance with this! More than happy to get stuck in, but some suggestions as to what to look at next would be really helpful!!

 

Many thanks,

Rob



#14 03traxter

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 09:52 PM

What year + does it have electric start. I have an 04 shop manual. If would like a copy, send me a msg & I will email it to you.

Also, are you hearing any beeps or audible electronic sounds from the dash area (the ecm will give you some code alerts, including low voltage).

#15 Robaniemi

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:53 PM

Hi,

 

I sent you a PM. Manufactured September 2004. No electric start.

 

No beeping!

 

Thanks,

 

Rob






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