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#31 stealth bomber

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 07:10 PM

Could it possibly be a bad magneto? I’ve never experienced this, but I think it is possible

#32 Daag44

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 03:11 AM

Ok. One of these days I’ll take it apart and look at the windings. I’ll report back with whatever I find. Do you think it’s looking like I need a new stator though?

 
Yes, it sure looks that way.
 
You will need a piece of flat plate to cut/make a puller ring to hold the magneto. Heat the nut to about 150F using a MAP gas torch and use an impact to remove the nut counterclockwise like any typical nut.
 
Remove puller ring then use a Harmonic Balancer Puller to remove the magneto flywheel. The puller needs to be carefully positioned in alignment with the crankshaft in both axis. Take care with this step to pull the the flywheel straight. I use anything is that is relatively straight to run along the engine and compare with the center puller bolt. Grease the center puller threads and pivot/ball.
 
Once the puller is in position with some tension on the center bolt, heat the taper portion of the magneto flywheel to about 150F. Use an impact on the puller bolt.
 
Care must be taken when fitting M8 bolts to hold the puller ring and puller. Threaded too far it will ruin the stator. It requires roughly 5 turns into the magneto flywheel. Use washers as shims.
 
The use of an impact is the correct/best tool imo, but I always use heat to break the thread locker and ease removal. I use a common impact, not one to remove truck tires. If it takes more than say a couple of seconds of brappps to get the nut turning, then I stop and question what is wrong. I may apply more heat if needed, but I have my digital temp gun to make sure I don't overheat the flywheel. The same couple of seconds of brappps for the puller. If it seems to have gone easy, then it worked like it was supposed to.
 
For the heat, I only use MAP gas (not propane) with an appropriate torch. Apply heat while always moving to avoid overheating and annealing any metal. The hotter temps of MAP gas will localize the heat better.
 
Rope in cylinder as an alternative to a puller ring is a bad idea. In the case that it is done, then it takes a lengthy procedure with a dial indicator..... so a bad idea.  It works for everyone until it doesn't lol
 
Grease, Grease Grease the center puller threads and pivot/ball.
 
The right tools and procedures for the job.

Edited by Daag44, 22 January 2021 - 03:14 AM.

Air/Fuel Ratio for two and four strokes
Air/Fuel Ratio for 1200 with boost
Air/Fuel Ratio is measured through emissions
Wideband and EGT
Wideband readings of Air/Fuel Ratio on a two stroke
600 SDI MY2004 Lean/Hot spot running 6900-7000 rpm @ 40-45% Throttle Opening
800R Cranking Compression
800R Oil Injection / Premix combo
800R P-TEK Electrical Troubleshooting #1 and #2 
800R Turbo
850 Center Oil line for coolant pump melted
850 Main Oil line caught fire #1 and #2
900 ACE Turbo - muffler turning red hot
1200 4-TEC Mapping
1200 4-TEC MY 2009 to 2011 Fuel Line issues that could cause a fire
Batteries
Belt Blowers: Overview of UPMICHIGANDER's and Ronn's experience
BUDS 3.3.0 won't connect to SDI
BUDS not connecting to HO or SDI - Try a CanDoo
CVT efficiency - BlueMax
Deep snow intake for XP chassis
Electrical - Diagnoses of a failed ECM
Electrical - 30A Battery Charging Fuse Socket Diagnoses and Relay
Electrical - Relay Coil Wine
Electrical - Relay Testing
Electrical - Battery Charging Relay Diagnostic 
Electrical - Troubleshooting with BRP video 
Electrical - Solder vs Crimp
Electrical - Diagram for Fanners on page 3
Engine Break-In 
Engine Weight 
E-TEC 600HO Clutching
E-TEC Oil Pump
E-TEC Dial-A-Jet
E-TEC Electric Start troubleshooting
E-TEC Engine Management
E-TEC eRAVE position code recurring
E-TEC Stator fault codes P1562 or P1563
E-TEC Capacitor Charge Hold Test and Residual Voltage Test
E-TEC Voltage Rectifier Regulator troubleshooting
E-TEC Power Fades are not normal and can be fixed
Fuel Issues: Could new Ester type oxygenated additives be deteriorating the Fuel Sender Grommet?
Fuel pump and regulator replacement for ACE, E-TEC and SDI
Gasoline quality and storage
Bad Gas for a Two Stroke - Is it a Myth ?
GNR CVT Alignment for the G4
Grip N Rip Clutch Alignment testing
G4 Clutch Alignment, Engine Movement, Sheave Runout and Clutching
G4 850 Throttle Jerkiness solved with clutching
G4 850 Snappy throttle/clutch engagement
G4 850 pDrive tech - A question of Engineering
G4 Steering
G4 850 Tuned Pipe @ 12.6 lbs and Muffler @ 15.4 lbs vs 800R and 800RE muffler weight
Longevity - 800R E-TEC 
Mikuni o-ring for carb float assembly - Arctic Cat part# 6505-875 or from Amazon and eBay
Muffler Red Hot
Off-trail riding for flatlanders
Oil versus Fuel consumption
Pictures - How to resize and upload to DooTalk
Pictures - How to post with the correct orientation
Pipe Pressure testing on a dyno
Pipe Pressure testing from LRD (#1) and (#2)
Pipe Pressure testing results from BRP
Power Loss - How to diagnose in the field
Power at the Crankshaft vs Track - BlueMax
Power Curves: 600 HOE (E-TEC)
Power Curves: 600 vs 800 vs 850 vs 1000 vs 1200
Power Curves: 1000 vs 800 vs 600
Power curves: 800RE 2010.5 to 2016 vs 2016.5 850
Quebec/NY State border crossing
REV Gen1 Gauge Display stuck on "SCALE"
REV Gen1 Volt and Temp Gauge install
REV Gen1 electrical connectors for sensors and MPEM (Multi Purpose Engine Module)
Seafoam for E-TEC injectors
Shortblock or Rebuild?
Ski-Doo Snowmobile Tech Training
Spark Plugs cracked
Squish - The limit
Squish - A discussion on head design
Stator and Relay Diagnostic 
Stator testing for E-TEC using a T harness/Bridge
Stator testing for 1200 4-TEC
Stator Removal on page 3
Stator replacement for a 1200 4-TEC
Suspension Adjustment
Triples - Coolant Pump Assembly
Y-Pipe bolts loosening fix

#33 Daag44

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 03:26 AM

Could it possibly be a bad magneto? I’ve never experienced this, but I think it is possible

 
 I have, but it gives funny readings.
 
The Ignition Generator Coil showing 6-8 Vac for a min spec of 7 Vac is what confirms the flywheel is good.
 
I did revise my thoughts on the shop manual spec for the Ignition Generator Coil being higher than the Lighting Generator Coil. I imagine it needs the higher cranking voltage for the ignition coils.


Edited by Daag44, 22 January 2021 - 03:29 AM.

Air/Fuel Ratio for two and four strokes
Air/Fuel Ratio for 1200 with boost
Air/Fuel Ratio is measured through emissions
Wideband and EGT
Wideband readings of Air/Fuel Ratio on a two stroke
600 SDI MY2004 Lean/Hot spot running 6900-7000 rpm @ 40-45% Throttle Opening
800R Cranking Compression
800R Oil Injection / Premix combo
800R P-TEK Electrical Troubleshooting #1 and #2 
800R Turbo
850 Center Oil line for coolant pump melted
850 Main Oil line caught fire #1 and #2
900 ACE Turbo - muffler turning red hot
1200 4-TEC Mapping
1200 4-TEC MY 2009 to 2011 Fuel Line issues that could cause a fire
Batteries
Belt Blowers: Overview of UPMICHIGANDER's and Ronn's experience
BUDS 3.3.0 won't connect to SDI
BUDS not connecting to HO or SDI - Try a CanDoo
CVT efficiency - BlueMax
Deep snow intake for XP chassis
Electrical - Diagnoses of a failed ECM
Electrical - 30A Battery Charging Fuse Socket Diagnoses and Relay
Electrical - Relay Coil Wine
Electrical - Relay Testing
Electrical - Battery Charging Relay Diagnostic 
Electrical - Troubleshooting with BRP video 
Electrical - Solder vs Crimp
Electrical - Diagram for Fanners on page 3
Engine Break-In 
Engine Weight 
E-TEC 600HO Clutching
E-TEC Oil Pump
E-TEC Dial-A-Jet
E-TEC Electric Start troubleshooting
E-TEC Engine Management
E-TEC eRAVE position code recurring
E-TEC Stator fault codes P1562 or P1563
E-TEC Capacitor Charge Hold Test and Residual Voltage Test
E-TEC Voltage Rectifier Regulator troubleshooting
E-TEC Power Fades are not normal and can be fixed
Fuel Issues: Could new Ester type oxygenated additives be deteriorating the Fuel Sender Grommet?
Fuel pump and regulator replacement for ACE, E-TEC and SDI
Gasoline quality and storage
Bad Gas for a Two Stroke - Is it a Myth ?
GNR CVT Alignment for the G4
Grip N Rip Clutch Alignment testing
G4 Clutch Alignment, Engine Movement, Sheave Runout and Clutching
G4 850 Throttle Jerkiness solved with clutching
G4 850 Snappy throttle/clutch engagement
G4 850 pDrive tech - A question of Engineering
G4 Steering
G4 850 Tuned Pipe @ 12.6 lbs and Muffler @ 15.4 lbs vs 800R and 800RE muffler weight
Longevity - 800R E-TEC 
Mikuni o-ring for carb float assembly - Arctic Cat part# 6505-875 or from Amazon and eBay
Muffler Red Hot
Off-trail riding for flatlanders
Oil versus Fuel consumption
Pictures - How to resize and upload to DooTalk
Pictures - How to post with the correct orientation
Pipe Pressure testing on a dyno
Pipe Pressure testing from LRD (#1) and (#2)
Pipe Pressure testing results from BRP
Power Loss - How to diagnose in the field
Power at the Crankshaft vs Track - BlueMax
Power Curves: 600 HOE (E-TEC)
Power Curves: 600 vs 800 vs 850 vs 1000 vs 1200
Power Curves: 1000 vs 800 vs 600
Power curves: 800RE 2010.5 to 2016 vs 2016.5 850
Quebec/NY State border crossing
REV Gen1 Gauge Display stuck on "SCALE"
REV Gen1 Volt and Temp Gauge install
REV Gen1 electrical connectors for sensors and MPEM (Multi Purpose Engine Module)
Seafoam for E-TEC injectors
Shortblock or Rebuild?
Ski-Doo Snowmobile Tech Training
Spark Plugs cracked
Squish - The limit
Squish - A discussion on head design
Stator and Relay Diagnostic 
Stator testing for E-TEC using a T harness/Bridge
Stator testing for 1200 4-TEC
Stator Removal on page 3
Stator replacement for a 1200 4-TEC
Suspension Adjustment
Triples - Coolant Pump Assembly
Y-Pipe bolts loosening fix

#34 Yamadooed

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 08:12 AM

flywheel.png

 

The left flywheel with the plastic retainer and factory glued on magnets which if it hasn't failed will fail. The one on the right with the metal caged is the superseded part. If you have not replaced your flywheel to the new one I suggest everyone change it as when the glue fails it will likely take out the stator even if it is currently not a problem.  


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#35 MrGutz

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 12:21 PM

I am in Connecticut. I have checked those wires under the seat in the past and they appear to be in good shape.

 

Where abouts?

 

I'm Nearish to Windsor Locks, I may have some tools you can barrow, I recommend C&T for these tools too. I'll look to see if I have any older stators from 500s, 583s, 670s and to see if they fit.

 

Later

GutZ


It's not what you do, It's how you do it.... It's not what you've got, It's how you use it.


#36 MrGutz

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 12:27 PM

LOL, well the stator is a 340 watt stator. The ones I have are 220 single phase ( 2 Wires ), I believe...

But I may have a puller if you are near by.

GutZ


It's not what you do, It's how you do it.... It's not what you've got, It's how you use it.


#37 Bliebler

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 06:16 PM

Where abouts?

I'm Nearish to Windsor Locks, I may have some tools you can barrow, I recommend C&T for these tools too. I'll look to see if I have any older stators from 500s, 583s, 670s and to see if they fit.

Later
GutZ


I live in Suffield. Pretty small world, we are practically neighbors Hahahah.

#38 Bliebler

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 06:17 PM

LOL, well the stator is a 340 watt stator. The ones I have are 220 single phase ( 2 Wires ), I believe...
But I may have a puller if you are near by.
GutZ


Thank you!! I will keep that in mind.

#39 Bliebler

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 06:20 PM


Yes, it sure looks that way.

You will need a piece of flat plate to cut/make a puller ring to hold the magneto. Heat the nut to about 150F using a MAP gas torch and use an impact to remove the nut counterclockwise like any typical nut.

Remove puller ring then use a Harmonic Balancer Puller to remove the magneto flywheel. The puller needs to be carefully positioned in alignment with the crankshaft in both axis. Take care with this step to pull the the flywheel straight. I use anything is that is relatively straight to run along the engine and compare with the center puller bolt. Grease the center puller threads and pivot/ball.

Once the puller is in position with some tension on the center bolt, heat the taper portion of the magneto flywheel to about 150F. Use an impact on the puller bolt.

Care must be taken when fitting M8 bolts to hold the puller ring and puller. Threaded too far it will ruin the stator. It requires roughly 5 turns into the magneto flywheel. Use washers as shims.

The use of an impact is the correct/best tool imo, but I always use heat to break the thread locker and ease removal. I use a common impact, not one to remove truck tires. If it takes more than say a couple of seconds of brappps to get the nut turning, then I stop and question what is wrong. I may apply more heat if needed, but I have my digital temp gun to make sure I don't overheat the flywheel. The same couple of seconds of brappps for the puller. If it seems to have gone easy, then it worked like it was supposed to.

For the heat, I only use MAP gas (not propane) with an appropriate torch. Apply heat while always moving to avoid overheating and annealing any metal. The hotter temps of MAP gas will localize the heat better.

Rope in cylinder as an alternative to a puller ring is a bad idea. In the case that it is done, then it takes a lengthy procedure with a dial indicator..... so a bad idea. It works for everyone until it doesn't lol

Grease, Grease Grease the center puller threads and pivot/ball.

The right tools and procedures for the job.


Thank you very much for all of the information! This is the first time I have ever posted on a forum, usually I am reading them for info, but I was not finding the right information on any of them. You have helped out tremendously!!




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