So last year I've been chasing an issue that I didn't have the previous years with my '13 summit X. Whenever I get stuck in deep (or wet) snow, the engine loses rpm all the way to roughly 6500 rpm. Once stuck, if I nail it again, it won't climb above that. It is getting very frustrating and makes it hard to get unstuck!
Throttle response is also not very crisp, I always have a 1-2 seconds of delay before the engine revs to 8000 in normal conditions, which makes it a bit tricky to ride around trees always trying to compensate for that 1-2 secs.
Current clutch setup is the following with 21/49 gearing:
160/380 PL/PK primary spring
pin weight adjusted for 7900/8000 rpm
Stock 40* helix
Black 157/303 spring
I was thinking of switching the secondary spring back to the stock blue spring, but I was thinking this would probably only make the problem worse.
Maybe it's something else than clutching? All help is appreciated!
If a new problem develops long after any parts have been changed/added then the problem is most likely maintenance related. Although clicker position could be creating part of your issue.
All movable clutch components (including bushings)for excessive wear and binding. OEM rollers in the secondary have a reputation for exploding (can see them through the helix) hi-tech rollers out of BC are the only rollers I use.
Reeds, OEM tend to be the most reliable, but even they fail.
Sparkplugs, leads, anything that could cause a weak spark.
Sparkplugs need to be indexed on etec engines. Ground strap must not be between the spark and injector
It could also be fuel related.
Pump could be worn out (automotive pump can be used to save $$$, same pump different source)
Regulator could be faulty or have some trash stuck in it. The housing can also be faulty allowing the regulator to be pushed past it's retainer. There is a recall for this, it's basically a band around the regulator with "wishers" incorporated into the top and bottom. It holds the regulator down and prevents the housing from deforming.
Raves. Sticky or malfunctioning raves can definitely cause bogging and throttle response issues
Compression. Easy to check while you're there. Should be 140+psi, within 10psi of eachother. Throttle wide open, gauge reset before each cylinder.
These would be the first things I'd check and as I said at the beginning if the problem developed long after and changes then it's most likely a maintenance issue and not a clutch tuning issue. That's like changing a wiring harness before checking the fuse.
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Edited by jack-danels, 17 November 2020 - 12:54 PM.