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Another Electric Start Thread

5K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Daag44 
#1 ·
2010 Renegade 600 Etec Backcountry

For the past several years, the electric start has not worked on my sled. Not generally a big deal as I just use the recoil. My daughter is now riding this sled and has a difficult time with the pull start and I figure its time to get it fixed. Hoping you guys can point me in right direction for next steps in troubleshooting.

When I press the start button (RER), nothing happens. Thought it might be bad battery. Tests at 12.76v. Battery will start sled fine (see tests below).

Looked at ground wires near the battery tray. Disconnected and reconnected/tightened both. Connections look good.

Both fuses 5A and 30A above battery are good and receive 12.76v on both sides of the fuses.

Next step was to troubleshoot the starter solenoid/relay. When I bypass the solenoid, the sled starts right away. I replaced the solenoid but still have the issue. (After the fact I bench tested both solenoids and they test good. Lesson learned - probably should have done more testing before jumping to the conclusion that the part was bad.)

There are two other posts on the starter solenoid/relay. When I press the start button only 3.7v are delivered to the wire on the top post. I assume this should be ~12v in order to engage the relay. I did test applying 12v to the top post and sled started as expected.

So my question - where should I focus my troubleshooting next? The start (RER) switch? Anything else that would cause that low of voltage to the solenoid? Hoping to avoid too much disassembly if there is something easy to check. (Note that the RER switch will engage reverse fine when the sled is running).

Appreciate the help!
 
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#3 ·
The battery will turn over the starter and start the sled quickly. Issue is getting the solenoid to engage. I *think* the issue is the voltage from the start button to the solenoid. Only 3.7v is making it to the top post on the solenoid.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the circuit that runs from battery to start button to solenoid? Or familiar enough to let me know if there are potential issues? I'll probably be digging in further this weekend when I have some time to try to trace the wiring.
 
#5 ·
By the way, the Start/RER button is a known issue.

Bypass the switch using a jumper wire from the battery positive to the upper terminal of the solenoid relay signal wire.

I believe you have already tested for voltage drop between the battery, 30A and 5A fuse, and did a jumper test.

So if it the jumper works, then there is a problem with a voltage drop in the Start/RER switch circuit.
 
#8 ·
Ok so my issue was a 5 pole 30 amp relay. Little black square on the wire harness by the battery. It was only $13.00 where i bought it. Luckily it was only this an saved me a lot of money an grief cause thats a cheep fix. Might fix it for u or could b something else, cheaper or more expensive. Hope this helps
 
#9 ·
I'm with Daag44 and need to figure out why only 3.7 volts is getting down to the solenoid.

Your jumper test tells us many things, battery has enough power to spin starter, those wires and connections are all good enough and the ground controlled by the ECM is good. (That ground "goes away" once the ECM "sees" the engine running, that is how when you press the start/rev button while running, you only get reverse not start. You don't want "both" trust me. . .)

One might get the notion to just "add" a start button but remember if someone get "confused" any presses that when engine is already running you will mesh the starter into the moving flywheel ring gear and it won't be good. (Not near as bad as getting start while engine is attempting reverse as I said above but still not "good")

Reverse likely work on the 3.7 volts as the ECM only needs a "signal" you want reverse unlike "start" needing enough power in the winding field to "move" the solenoid.

Switch or path to or from it would be where my time and money goes. . .(Please be sure to post what you find and good luck!!!)
 
#13 ·
I have not seen the wire diagram for an 08, or 09. I'm thinking the OP 10 Etec would be "close" to a 2012 Etec, from memory I do not recall a "relay" in the start/rev button path? (Charging circuit yes, but OP is not a dead battery issue.)

OP already changed the solenoid and knows there is only 3.7 volts where it should be 12.5. Your stating this "relay" feeds power to the start/rev switch? (I don't recall that part, my issue was "extra ground point" before the ECM allowing Start and Rev at the same time.)
 
#15 ·
Took me a while to get back to the project. I was able to take all the plastic off and do some more testing. They certainly don't make it easy to get to the wiring harness!

Turns out the switch was bad. I hoped to disassemble the switch and try to repair, but the plastic was very brittle and decided to just replace the entire switch. That solved the problem. 12.76v delivered to the solenoid.

Now back to reassembly...
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thankfully it wasn't a problem on the ground side.

That would have been a little more involved with the harness.

One more thing that would really help is giving details to how you tested the Start/RER switch.

Like if you backprobed the connector for voltage measurements,

Or disconnected the switch for a resistance test, or both.

It will make a big difference to the next person reading this thread looking for insights.

Minnesota FreeRide, thanks for piecing the puzzle with how the low voltage on the signal wire would still work to trigger the RER.
 
#20 ·
Thankfully it wasn't a problem on the ground side.

That would have been a little more involved with the harness.

One more thing that would really help is giving details to how you tested the Start/RER switch.

Like if you backprobed the connector for voltage measurements,

Or disconnected the switch for a resistance test, or both.

It will make a big difference to the next person reading this thread looking for insights.

Minnesota FreeRide, thanks for piecing the puzzle with how the low voltage on the signal wire would still work to trigger the RER.
From a troubleshooting perspective, I disconnected the switch and checked voltage at the plug. I have 12.6v there. I reinstalled the switch and then tested at the solenoid and it was low. Unfortunately, I didn't spend time checking the switch itself to determine where the issue was. I still have the old switch and may play around just to learn a bit more (I'm definitely a novice on these electrical issues...).

One item I'll add is that I did not find any other relays on this sled when I took all the plastic off.
 
#21 ·
From a troubleshooting perspective, I disconnected the switch and checked voltage at the plug. I have 12.6v there. I reinstalled the switch and then tested at the solenoid and it was low. Unfortunately, I didn't spend time checking the switch itself to determine where the issue was. I still have the old switch and may play around just to learn a bit more (I'm definitely a novice on these electrical issues...).

One item I'll add is that I did not find any other relays on this sled when I took all the plastic off.
The relay is tucked on top of the oil tank.

Impressive troubleshooting, advanced level imo.
 
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