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Little bit of a test...


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#1 Zack Watters

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 01:41 AM

The last two posts I made had no views or comments to them, and it seems to be because they had tags attached to them. I am seeing if this post gains any attention without tags. if this is not allowed I apologize, I am just trying to get an answer to my other two posts. One of those questions are:

 

I like the '03 - '07 rev platform and body style, but I was debating on trying to change the side panels. Has anyone tried putting newer side panels on their rev? Like the '08 ones where its more right angles and stuff? Would I just need different hinges? Will they fit up? If I had the money I would try myself but I do not have any to compare to.
 
Any advice helps! I appreciate it!


#2 awful knawful

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 05:21 AM

I doubt they're anywhere near the same.

But anything can be made to fit.

#3 Pit Grunt

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 05:27 AM

Total different plastic. With lots of rework of the frame you can make it work. Big project.


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#4 jeepincbum33

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 06:18 AM

I saw your other post.  Did not have the answers so i did not comment.  The tags had nothing to do with my response.


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#5 Skioutty

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 07:42 AM

Welcome to dooTalk!

I highly doubt you could adapt XP panels to your REV and have anything line up. 


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#6 Go Fast or Go Home

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 07:36 PM

Welcome to Doo Talk.

 

I agree with Skioutty.

 

Would be more trouble than it's worth.

 

However, with a lot of time and patience and some money I'm sure it could be done.  Probably look good too.

 

Don~



#7 Json

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 11:49 PM

Also you should consider putting your posts in the right section, eg, in this case the REV forum section. Welcome to DOOTalk.



#8 doodog

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Posted 01 May 2020 - 12:03 AM

I agree with everyone else.  Just ride your sled and enjoy it.  How much time and $$ do you really want to put into a 17 year old sled?  Ride it and then upgrade in a year or 2 or 3. 



#9 Mike-337

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Posted 01 May 2020 - 03:14 AM

The Revs are a nice looking machine, just enjoy it.
The older i get, the faster i was.

#10 1Evil55

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Posted 01 May 2020 - 12:22 PM

Prolly cheaper buying a new sled



#11 Daag44

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Posted 01 May 2020 - 07:32 PM

Same here. A nice upgrade for a Gen1 REV is a taller seat like a BOSS seat. My renegade has a slightly taller windshield which works great to match the higher seating. Next is a taller riser and longer throttle cable from a Summit to match the higher seating position. If you want to give the REV a new look, that falls into color and graphics. There is always a thread to show the REVs with many good ideas to work from.

 

For an XP chassis look, get an XP. There isn't much of a difference in price between a 2007 Gen1 or a 2008 Gen2 in good shape. Even a 2013 Gen3 I consider it to be an old sled. There is no difference in price for maintenance wear items between Gen1 and Gen3. I see Gen1 REVs and RTs in much better shape than Gen2 and Gen3 sleds. The engine is the money pit.

 

Hope it helps.


Edited by Daag44, 01 May 2020 - 07:33 PM.


#12 Zack Watters

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Posted 17 May 2020 - 11:13 PM

Thank You all for your responses, I have not gotten the notifications until now so I apologize for the delayed response.

 

I saw your other post.  Did not have the answers so i did not comment.  The tags had nothing to do with my response.

If you're willing to type it out i'm happy to hear what you have to say, the tags were just what i thought might help get the attention I wanted to the topic :D

 

Also you should consider putting your posts in the right section, eg, in this case the REV forum section. Welcome to DOOTalk.

What is the rev section specific to the 2003-2007 models? I've had the sled for about 10 months, I do not quite know what the specifics are in its naming  :D MXZ seems to apply to ones before and after the 2003-2007 models, and the REV Seems to be everything Post '03, I assume its Gen-1, but i have no confidence in that

 

Same here. A nice upgrade for a Gen1 REV is a taller seat like a BOSS seat. My renegade has a slightly taller windshield which works great to match the higher seating. Next is a taller riser and longer throttle cable from a Summit to match the higher seating position. If you want to give the REV a new look, that falls into color and graphics. There is always a thread to show the REVs with many good ideas to work from.

 

For an XP chassis look, get an XP. There isn't much of a difference in price between a 2007 Gen1 or a 2008 Gen2 in good shape. Even a 2013 Gen3 I consider it to be an old sled. There is no difference in price for maintenance wear items between Gen1 and Gen3. I see Gen1 REVs and RTs in much better shape than Gen2 and Gen3 sleds. The engine is the money pit.

 

Hope it helps.

That does help :D When I bought the sled in question it had 6" riser, stationary windshield, and a "Bever tail" delete which I believe was the one from boondocker. I got it for $1600 :D do you or anyone else here have thoughts or things to look out for on the engine or the chassis in general? I have seen some posts that highlight this, but i was wondering if you guys had advice that would be new to me, or re-instill the stuff I have already been told :D on and off the form.
 
Again, Thank you all for the advice on the side panels and the warm welcome! I will save the money for now but if it starts to burn a hole in my pocket I will try and post pictures of the modification and maybe a how-to :lol:
​ 


#13 stealth bomber

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 07:50 AM

On the engine: worn motor mounts, cracked exhaust y-pipes, cracked carb boots, sticking oil pump, leaking crankshaft seals. Worn carburetor slides and linkages. Failing thermostats. Recoil starter problems. You don’t state engine size or mileage, so I’ll just say that preventative maintenance goes a long way on these sleds. Catching failures before they cause bigger, more expensive failures. An engine “leak down” or also known as pressure decay test is a bit time consuming to set up, but will tell the story on the condition of the engine seals. Compression test and cylinder leakage test can give an indication of the piston ring to cylinder seal. But nothing beats a complete tear down and going through of the engine. Even a visual inspection of the pistons through the reed valve and exhaust ports is better than doing nothing. Scored pistons eventually lead to scored cylinders so you want to catch stuff like that before it makes problems worse.


As far as the chassis: beaver tail delete can be a good thing, but I believe an 800 needs the longer cooler installed to be able to cool reliably in all conditions, where a 600 can get away with the stock cooler. I’m sure there’s 800 guys with short coolers that will disagree.
On a 2003 the front suspension crossmember or “nun” as it is commonly referred to is a bit weaker than other years. It should be inspected for cracks and straightness. There are aftermarket brace kits available to help with chassis rigidity or to straighten out an already tweaked chassis. Worn a-arm bushings and ball joints are common. Again, aftermarket to the rescue. If you’re using the stock SC 3 rear suspension, it’s quite reliable. Make sure all the shafts and bushings are in order, check for bent parts. Common failures are bent or seized shafts causing bolts to work loose and then egg out the bolt holes. 2003 had four rebuildable shocks, they’re probably due. Wheel bearings should be checked and replaced if rough. It’s worth the time to pull the suspension and give it a going through.
Chaincase bearings last a long time in these sleds but the chain is a wear item and should be inspected. I’ve seen them breaking links around 10k miles. The jack shaft and drive axle bearings on the left side fail with age. Another good thing to inspect or replace. Aftermarket bearing kits that come with bearings and seals required for each shaft can be had quite cheap.
Both clutches need to be kept clean and in proper working order. For these I prefer to use OEM parts to replace wear items. Skidoo sells a rebuild kit for the primary that’s relatively cheap.
One very important thing on these sleds is maintenance of the brake hydraulic system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Asides from the moisture lowering the fluids boiling point, it will eventually cause corrosion in the master cylinder. When the corrosion gets to the point that it causes the master cylinder to plug up, the brakes will stick on which can lead to a fire. Very important to change out the fluid and verify no corrosion in the brakes in these sleds.

I guess I’ll leave it at that, didn’t intend to write an essay but hopefully it helps you.

#14 Zack Watters

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 06:01 PM

On the engine: worn motor mounts, cracked exhaust y-pipes, cracked carb boots, sticking oil pump, leaking crankshaft seals. Worn carburetor slides and linkages. Failing thermostats. Recoil starter problems. You don’t state engine size or mileage, so I’ll just say that preventative maintenance goes a long way on these sleds. Catching failures before they cause bigger, more expensive failures. An engine “leak down” or also known as pressure decay test is a bit time consuming to set up, but will tell the story on the condition of the engine seals. Compression test and cylinder leakage test can give an indication of the piston ring to cylinder seal. But nothing beats a complete tear down and going through of the engine. Even a visual inspection of the pistons through the reed valve and exhaust ports is better than doing nothing. Scored pistons eventually lead to scored cylinders so you want to catch stuff like that before it makes problems worse.


As far as the chassis: beaver tail delete can be a good thing, but I believe an 800 needs the longer cooler installed to be able to cool reliably in all conditions, where a 600 can get away with the stock cooler. I’m sure there’s 800 guys with short coolers that will disagree.
On a 2003 the front suspension crossmember or “nun” as it is commonly referred to is a bit weaker than other years. It should be inspected for cracks and straightness. There are aftermarket brace kits available to help with chassis rigidity or to straighten out an already tweaked chassis. Worn a-arm bushings and ball joints are common. Again, aftermarket to the rescue. If you’re using the stock SC 3 rear suspension, it’s quite reliable. Make sure all the shafts and bushings are in order, check for bent parts. Common failures are bent or seized shafts causing bolts to work loose and then egg out the bolt holes. 2003 had four rebuildable shocks, they’re probably due. Wheel bearings should be checked and replaced if rough. It’s worth the time to pull the suspension and give it a going through.
Chaincase bearings last a long time in these sleds but the chain is a wear item and should be inspected. I’ve seen them breaking links around 10k miles. The jack shaft and drive axle bearings on the left side fail with age. Another good thing to inspect or replace. Aftermarket bearing kits that come with bearings and seals required for each shaft can be had quite cheap.
Both clutches need to be kept clean and in proper working order. For these I prefer to use OEM parts to replace wear items. Skidoo sells a rebuild kit for the primary that’s relatively cheap.
One very important thing on these sleds is maintenance of the brake hydraulic system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Asides from the moisture lowering the fluids boiling point, it will eventually cause corrosion in the master cylinder. When the corrosion gets to the point that it causes the master cylinder to plug up, the brakes will stick on which can lead to a fire. Very important to change out the fluid and verify no corrosion in the brakes in these sleds.

I guess I’ll leave it at that, didn’t intend to write an essay but hopefully it helps you.

This helps out a lot, It gives me a lot to go on and reinforces some other things I have been told. Also adds to the list a few things That i have not heard about until now. This is much appreciated! If you are curious, the sled in question is a 600 H.O. the mileage is in the upper 7000 miles, but not quite 8, probably more like 7,800 ish. I am the third owner, the 2nd owner did not do much to it besides add good quality oil, use premium gas, and keep it inside covered  :D I was told the first owner had it professionally rebuilt, i believe it was around that 1800-2000 mark but i do not know anything about the rebuild besides that. the guy before me put on 3000+ and i have probably put on about 1000. I am hoping to add a new track and extensions to the existing skid, and was planning on adding braces so I am happy to hear it is a good idea :D the shocks definitely feel like they should have something done, do you have any recommendations for a rebuild kit or something like that? I may wait on the clutching for a few seasons though since I do not pin it often, and it can get up to 98 before i start to run out of road to stop

 

Thank you again, I enjoy reading all the advice you guys give!


Edited by Zack Watters, 18 May 2020 - 06:04 PM.


#15 Ditchbangr zx

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 06:33 PM

If they are rebuildable shocks, there’s 2 members here that do custom valving and rebuilds on shocks

Ian at Monster Performance http://www.monsterperf.com/

Or Lynn at Amazing Kustoms http://maizekustoms.com/

Edited by Ditchbangr zx, 18 May 2020 - 06:33 PM.





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