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Will 600 et-ec come out of xp chassis without removing jackshaft?


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#1 NO HAND

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 03:42 PM

Hi I'm about to remove the the 600 e-tec from my 2012 MXZ-X 600. I have read all I could find on removing a e-tec but not much specifically on the small 600. It really looks like it will go out by just removing both clutches. Here's where I'm at now.
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#2 NO HAND

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 04:01 PM

Here's where I'm at.

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#3 12/3

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 09:06 PM

The secondary clutch and jackshaft are one piece. It will need to be removed to pull the motor.

#4 Mill

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 09:06 PM

Make life easier and remove both clutches.

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#5 codooster

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 09:47 PM

Make life easier and remove both clutches.

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And the y-pipe, intake boots



#6 IcutMetl

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 06:46 AM

I’m not sure why you wouldn’t remove the jack shaft; that’s one of the easiest components to take out.

#7 NO HAND

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 07:39 AM

I’m not sure why you wouldn’t remove the jack shaft; that’s one of the easiest components to take out.

Because I thought removing the jackshaft was going to be a big challenge because on my last sled (98Mach1) I went through hell and back trying to remove a rusted solid jackshaft. Glad to know it should be easier on this one.
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#8 Mill

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 08:01 AM

Because I thought removing the jackshaft was going to be a big challenge because on my last sled (98Mach1) I went through hell and back trying to remove a rusted solid jackshaft. Glad to know it should be easier on this one.

Well your in luck because it is very easy plus if you are rebuilding the engine now is also the time to change all the bearings when it's apart front to back. Once done you will be riding for years problem free.

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#9 12/3

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 08:54 PM

Jackshaft removal with chain case open: 

 

-Loosen the chain adjuster bolt

-Remove the chain and top gear

-take a 10mm wrench and remove the one bolt that holds the bearing retainer behind the secondary clutch

-Slide the jack shaft out

If it's stuck there is a good chance that the bearing is rusted in the housing, give it a pull and it should come

 

Jackshaft removal with the cover on the chain case:

 

-Remove the rubber plug on the case cover

-Remove the bolt that holds the top gear in place, careful not to drop the washer

-Remove the 10mm nut behind the secondary clutch

-Slide the cltuch out of the brace BUT as you do this get someone to insert a 3/8" extension into the spot where the splined shaft was.  If you have the proper tool for holding the gear in place they work very well.

 

 

How's the project going?


Edited by 12/3, 24 April 2020 - 08:58 PM.


#10 codooster

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 11:18 PM

Jackshaft removal with chain case open: 

 

-Loosen the chain adjuster bolt

-Remove the chain and top gear

-take a 10mm wrench and remove the one bolt that holds the bearing retainer behind the secondary clutch

-Slide the jack shaft out

If it's stuck there is a good chance that the bearing is rusted in the housing, give it a pull and it should come

 

Jackshaft removal with the cover on the chain case:

 

-Remove the rubber plug on the case cover

-Remove the bolt that holds the top gear in place, careful not to drop the washer

-Remove the 10mm nut behind the secondary clutch

-Slide the cltuch out of the brace BUT as you do this get someone to insert a 3/8" extension into the spot where the splined shaft was.  If you have the proper tool for holding the gear in place they work very well.

 

 

How's the project going?

If the jackshaft & bearing won't come out of support, apply some heat to the aluminum support to help release the bearing....put a bolt into the end of the shaft to whack if you are going the chaincase cover off approach.



#11 NO HAND

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 10:55 AM

A million thanks for your help guys, will go at it this afternoon. The water trick is just amazing! I have a motion pro puller and I was using torque bars to a point where it didn't feel right. Just removed the puller before I damage anything, and used the stock bolt + teflon and water... magic.

Edited by NO HAND, 25 April 2020 - 10:58 AM.

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#12 NO HAND

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 02:17 PM

This is great, I love step by step, it worked like a charm. Oooh yeah. Now I'm on to the Y pipe and intake manifold. Real glad I could rely on your advices because I was reading very conflicting information. My shop manual was saying for example to remove to oil lines on the rave valve and disconnect both fuel lines, but I read on dootalk to avoid breaking the oil lines and also remove the injectors without breaking the fuel lines... Oh yeah and why is there so many random freakin 5/8 bolts!

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If anyone needs 1998 Mach service manual... send me a pm

#13 NO HAND

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 03:18 PM

What allen socket on planet zorg remove those Allen screws center of the Y pipe?
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#14 12/3

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 10:26 PM

You need A 5mm Allan key for the Y pipe. If you have a longer one that can be adapted to a socket it would be helpful for the bottom bolts.

Slide the air box out by pushing on the tab that is near the secondary clutch that you removed.

Then take a flat screwdriver and undo the clamps that hold the carbs. to the reed boots. Tie the carbs out of the way.

The reed boots can be removed too, there are four bolts on each boot to disassemble them.

Edited by 12/3, 25 April 2020 - 10:30 PM.


#15 Thumb2bar

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Posted 26 April 2020 - 07:50 AM

Ball head allen wrench for tough to reach allen bolts. Throw some direct heat at the bolt head area prior. I have used stubby allen head sockets with a univesal joint as well. 






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