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2016 800 ETEC RPM LOSS/BOG

RPM LOSS bog bogging 800r etec knock

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#1 lostgolfin

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 06:28 PM

Just bought this sled from a guy in Iowa. It ran perfect for the first 100 miles or so and on my last run back to the truck it started acting up.  At WOT it sounds like it's down a cyl or the computer is preventing it from running full power for some reason.  A few things I've read say could be fuel pump or sensing knock? 

 

 

Any suggestions would be great, I've tried the dealer and of course "we can't find anything wrong, that'l be $60..."

 

 



#2 Mr.Skidoo714

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 07:09 PM

When the sled goes up and down in rpm is that you on the throttle or is that the sled buncing the rpm up and down?

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#3 lostgolfin

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 08:54 PM

That's WOT held until I slow down at the end.

 

Edit: I did come off and on the throttle at the end right before slowing down. One time only though. At 0:21.


Edited by lostgolfin, 30 January 2019 - 08:58 PM.


#4 timmus

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 10:44 PM

Fuel pump mine was in to dealer a couple times before they changed it. Would run fine when I brought it in.sure there must be a pressure test they can do

#5 lostgolfin

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Posted 05 February 2019 - 11:43 PM

I thought I had it solved after dumping a can of Seafoam in the tank. Took it out and it pulled hard right at 7900 RPM. Later in the day though I did some runs on the lake at WOT and it started acting up again. I bought it with an iBackshift clutch kit installed, and primary on clicker 3. It also has a GGB can.

I tried swapping back to the stock exhaust, since some have said MBRP cans cause issues. No luck though it bogs stock as well.

The last odd deal is after the sled has sat and cooled some for a while, the first pull or two at WOT it will run great, only after doing it a few times (and presumably after it’s good and hot) it starts to bog again. Could this still be a symptom of a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator? Maybe bad exhaust temp sensor? And after it’s been subjected to repeated full throttle it throws an error?

I’m planning on having the dealer try and test the fuel pressure soon.

Edited by lostgolfin, 05 February 2019 - 11:46 PM.


#6 GoinBoardin

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Posted 06 February 2019 - 12:05 PM

T in a fuel pressure gauge and go for a quick ride. You want to see the pressure under the condition you're trying to diagnose. Pumps often pass the test without a load on the engine, then fail once the injectors are staying open longer under load. 44psi is the spec if I recall correctly. Relying on the dealer to test it in a warm shop at idle or under no load on a track stand might leave you chasing your tail, and paying to do it. Gauge is cheap, and easy to use. Make sure to replace the filter too.

If that checks out try clicker 2. Etecs do weird stuff if not loaded heavily.

My '13 did something similar when close to new. If I rode in fresh powder the same rpm bounce would occur. Packed trail was no issue. Powder was pouring in through the grille vents, and cooling the pipe. Overpriced brp prefilter kit fixed the issue. But I'm leaning toward fuel issues for you.

Edited by GoinBoardin, 06 February 2019 - 12:10 PM.


#7 lostgolfin

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 09:30 PM

The solution ended up being a loose ground wire strap somewhere. Dealer replaced, $6 part, and $250 labor.  It was throwing a high exhaust temp warning code, and the intermittent ground connection was causing the fuel pump not to run continuously or something.  SO the lean mixture caused by that, caused it to run hot.  Weird set of symptoms for that to be the fix.  I've ridden 100 miles now and she runs great, and even sounds better.



#8 jake3

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 06:58 PM

A search lead me here as my sled is doing the exact same thing. Any idea where this ground wire was ? What was the part? Regards 



#9 lostgolfin

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Posted 02 December 2019 - 06:01 PM

Turns out the new ground wire did NOT fix it.  Had the same issue today.  I just put 3 gal of 110 octane in to see if maybe its a knock sensor tripping.  Will report back.  I only run 91 no oxy gas so I'd be surprised if this fixes it but we'll see.  It only occurs for me once the engine is thoroughly hot after 10-15 min.  Very frustrating.  No warning lights or beeps either.  



#10 Dark Ice Hornet

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Posted 02 December 2019 - 06:23 PM

What belt do you have? Ski Doo belt should be a 531. I have seen guys with the wrong belt on and you get shifting issues 



#11 lostgolfin

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Posted 02 December 2019 - 09:21 PM

My belt number is 417 300 391. OEM



#12 Dark Ice Hornet

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:54 AM

My belt number is 417 300 391. OEM

got a spare belt or a buddies belt you could swap out. 417 300 391 is the original belt 417 300 531 is the latest belt for the 800 etec



#13 bnorth

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 11:37 AM

What sled is it? That is not an XM Summit gauge, did it get swapped out by PO?


2019 Alpha 800 165

1997 Kitty Cat

 

Previous:

17 174 SP

14 163X

05 Vertical Composites 1000 162

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#14 barski

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 12:46 PM

After listening to the video here's where I would start:

1. Install a fuel pressure gauge in between the filter and ECU then tape the gauge to your handle bars and go for a ride and reproduce the issue. While the issue is happening ensure you're at 44psi or very close to it. If you're at 44psi then you're golden on fuel delivery from the fuel pump and filter. If not work your way back to rule out the fuel filter.

2. Check for vacuum leaks at the rave valves. 

 

3. Water temp sensor and/or the eRave sensor. Without being on the sled it's hard to say but it sounds like your rave valves might be getting commanded to different position. This could come from either the water temp sensor messing up or the eRave sensor going bad.  You can setup a multimeter to monitor them if you wish. In my case I wanted to ride so I replaced both of them on my sled and my issue went away. (Thanks to Big John at Sled Head Racing for this tip)

For what it's worth: The dealer can see if there's been knock within BUDS

 

Also, did the high exhaust temp warning code come back?


Edited by barski, 03 December 2019 - 12:51 PM.


#15 mbret2004

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 02:07 PM

IF the water temp sensor is easy access get something to plug the sensor hole and remove the sensor. Hook a multimeter to the sensor and run warm water over it. I believe these sensors are the negative temperature coefficient type, meaning as they warm up resistance will decrease and the opposite is also true. Ensure a smooth transition of resistance reading, no huge jumps in values or huge decreases as you change the water temperature. A shop book would be ideal. Maybe someone can post the resistance chart......
It’s a start and might save you some $$.
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