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2011 etech 800r battery/ voltage regulator location

11K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  Huskydave 
#1 ·
I've spent hours going through posts to help troubleshoot my battery isn't charging. For the life of me I cannot locate the voltage regulator in this machine, even the parts view doesn't show one. Any help would be appreciated, bottom line is I'm trying to test stator output but ruling out all the parts in the flow... relay is good. Sled works perfect if pull started but runs off the battery. Much thanks.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the confirmation Daag44... at least I`m not going crazy not finding it as a seperate device. Noboy seems to talk about that so wonder if its specific to that year. So I guess my next step is to remove the stator plug from the ecm and look for 20v coming there on the 6 pin connector. Thanks for your help... trying to get back on the trails by Friday :)
 
#5 ·
Power Distribution 800 ETEC 2010.5-2012 .

Note everything in the upright rectangle box is in the ECM including the VR and DC-DC converter to step down the 60 Vdc to ~14 Vdc (aka 12 Vdc).

Up until 2012 it had a battery charging relay which was later integrated into the ECM for MY2013 and on. So for your sled I would test the feed side of the starting system relay to see if it is getting any power from the DC-DC converter. As you can see from the diagram, as long as the lights and gauges are getting power, then this confirms the DC-DC converter is working.

Rectangle Schematic Font Material property Parallel
 

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#6 ·
Thanks Daag44, I have already taken out the relay and bench tested it and is fine. To your point above all my lights , warmers, visor all work fine when its running so converter should be ok. The parts in the rectangle box are all integrated and sealed? Do you happen to have the steps to test the stator... assume I unplug from that ECM box, 6 pin connector. Can I turn over with the battery or need to pull and do I leave the kill switch off or will it not start anyway with that plug out. Much thanks
 
#7 ·
so... tested the stator and have 20vac on each line. Rersistance test checks out ok also. And I bench tested the relay and it is ok. And as Daag44 mentioned all my lights, heaters and visor etc work fine so relay should be ok? Any further test I can do on the ECM at this point, or is it an ECM change. Anything I can test at the communication tester without a reader? Thanks all.
 
#10 ·
So I have 60vdc at the cap, on the relay both red/ orange wires have about 15v, the red with white is around 12.3v and the orange has no voltage. Thanks Daag44
15Vdc on the two Red/Orange wires is perfect. This is the current that is fed to the relay for the switch and the coil.

The Red/White is the output of the coil, so it should show lower voltage as the coil is a draw.

The Orange/White wire is the last one to measure. This is the one I referred to as "the voltage of the current output side that leads to the battery." You want this one to be the same as the 15 Vdc that is being fed into the relay. If not, then the relay is has internal resistance from a bad connection.

You are so close.
 
#14 ·
My mistake. I just realized that you have already measured no voltage on the Orange/White wire. In other words, you have measured voltage going into the relay (Red/Orange feed), and no voltage going out on the Orange/White.

All your measurements confirm a faulty relay. Well that was easier than I expected.
 
#15 ·
Success.... new relay for $7.50 fixed it. Now have 14v at the battery. I've learned a ton about this sled now (had 2002 prior) sure miss just lifting the hood to look inside. Now I get to re-assemble this machine, should be fun but will be on the trails soon. So much thanks to Daag44 he is a rock star :ride:
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,

I am troubleshooting a friends 2011 GSX 600 that can be started if the starter solenoid coil is given 12V with jumpers from the battery. I realize that this thread has to do with an 800 but the information here seems applicable. I also was pulling my hair out trying to locate the voltage regulator/ rectifier until I found this thread explaining that it is built into the ECM.

Once started it does not run very well and will die if the throttle is not partially open. This sled ran perfectly prior to the start (& reverse) button not working. In fact it ran great for quite a while after being started every time by jumping the starter solenoid.

The battery is new and it reads 12.8Vdc with the sled both off and when running. The battery receives no charging because the charging system relay is not being energized. I can jump 12vdc onto the charging system relay coil and then the normally open contacts of the relay will close connecting the battery to the sled's charging circuit.

The 5A & 30A fuses at the battery are good as is the splice in the harness for both fuses (30A fuse feeds the 5A fuse). If the power distribution circuit diagram posted by Daag44 is applicable to this sled then I believe that I have a bad ECM.

I also want to check the magneto stator as it provides the 60Vdc for the fuel injectors, fuel pump, ignition coils, oil pump, & capacitor which may be causing the poor running condition once started. I am confused however as to the purpose of the capacitor in an electric start machine. Is it in the 60V circuit to momentarily help the fuel pump, injectors & coils during cranking until the magnito stator is spun fast enough to take over?

How do I test the ECM, magneto stator & capacitor? Any other ideas as to what else might be the cause of this problem?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Dave
763-260-1259
 
#18 · (Edited)
If the measurement at the capacitor can sustain a steady voltage near 55Vdc for a 600HOE, and near 60Vdc for an 800RE (E is for E-TEC), then my guess is that everything is good with the Stator, Voltage Rectifier Regulator (in the ECM), Capacitor and Harness Ground.

I always assume the ground straps have poor connections. I give them a good clean and apply dielectric grease to protect against corrosion. A clue is with BRP's own ground mod for the MY2015+ 600HOE that adds a separate chassis ground for the capacitor. For the G4 chassis, BRP has wired the capacitor into the ECM which I assume is tied to the Voltage Rectifier Regulator output. This gives another clue to the importance of the connections for the capacitor. Another lesson from the G4 is the importance of the engine ground strap. Note the ignition coils are grounded to the engine via a ground strap tied to the right side intake track. It also makes more sense to have the electrical path from the spark plug to run from the head to this ground strap on the cylinder block, instead of through the crankcase and engine mounts.
 
#25 ·
What do you guys get for voltage on the accessory harness above 2k rpm’s? Should I be getting the same voltage reading as off the battery? Around 14.6v or should it be regulated down to 12v? I’m just curious before I hook up my heated visor to the accessory circuit if it should be regulated to 12v or if having the 14.6v or so is normal.
 
#30 ·
Deff wanna hook the heated visors to the acc. Circuit. I tried it off the battery myself originally and just kept popping fuses. Haven’t had a problem since putting it on the acc. Circuit. Only comes on over 2k rpm’s or something around there but I haven’t had any problems with that.
 
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