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Parts list - electric reverse to mechanical


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#1 my87csx481

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 04:03 PM

Life after electro-mechanical reverse is....engaging. Sorry. Had to.

I successfully converted my 2017 GT SE to full manual mechanical. Parts and quantities below. I owe a thanks to the members of this forum. Thanks a lot for posting, and responding to PM's. The dealer that sold me the sled helped a little too. Apparently, there is a BRP dealer only forum somewhere.

I could never find a complete list. Hopefully this helps someone. I ended up confirming part numbers by looking up the "sport" version of my model.


1 x 504153174 - Grip
1 x 517305061 - Black Console
1 x 504152710 - Double Ball Joint
1 x 250000340 - Shoulder Bolt
2 x 207562544 - Hex Flange Screws M6 x 25
1 x 205562044 - Socket Head Allen Screw M6 x 20

00450dae73f1691f14caaf70ff8ebe5a.jpg64c6e1b77f1a1ac885fd2c8fa0167915.jpg

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For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

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#2 Pit Grunt

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 05:09 PM

What was your cost?

WE RIDE !!!


#3 my87csx481

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 05:16 PM

I can't find my invoice, and the place I ordered the parts from has a website issue with viewing previous orders.  It was somewhere around $100 US....but with a 20% discount code and free shipping.  Plus the cost of a decent utility knife and blades and a heat gun (if you don't have those already).  Oh yeah, and a decent amount of patience while cutting.  I had to look real closely, then I found the mold lines for the top, right, and bottom cuts (in the sled pic posted).  The left side was determined "free hand".  I probably could take a little more off but, there's no interference, so good enough.

 

Edit:  also should mention, one of the allen screws is reused from the electric setup.  The adjustable linkage is reused as well.  Mine did not require adjustment after the conversion.


Edited by my87csx481, 15 January 2019 - 05:18 PM.

For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#4 Legrand

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 06:13 PM

Could you crack open could you crack open the fairing and take a couple of pics so that you can see what's going on inside sled?

#5 my87csx481

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 09:25 AM

Sorry, didn't see this 'til now.  I can take a pic for you but, there really isn't much to see, until you remove the 4 or 5 bolts holding the black plastic piece (bolted to the chain case) that everything mounts to.

 

I originally intended to make some sort of how-to with this.  But it's not all that hard to do, and it would be mostly a duplicate of portions of other videos/how-to's.  The only gotcha is that the long double ball end linkage mounts to the opposite side of the cam/lever than the electric motor's double ball end linkage (and uses new/different hardware).

 

I used rockerdan's video to get familiar with the lever: https://www.youtube....1&v=fTWCJ8AYUks

 

I used Judge's video to get familar with the reverse relays and harness:  https://www.youtube....h?v=VTOgN5tmoOk

 

I used marksvt video to get familiar with chain case cover removal, and the steps to get to that point:  https://www.youtube....33261A3B119036C

 

And I have the factory service manual for torque specs/etc.

 

I chose to do this conversion at the same time as changing the chain case oil (seeing how you're already half way there anyway), and I wanted to change the cover fasteners to proper bolts (not self tapping bolts).  If you've pulled your chain case cover before, this conversion will be easy.

 

I'll post a pic with the side cover open in a few minutes.


Edited by my87csx481, 24 January 2019 - 10:07 AM.

For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#6 my87csx481

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 01:24 PM

Here's the culprit on mine. You can see the shorter linkage and longer bolt.

And the bracket without the motor.

c94ec93d5092c17ffb713ef3cecfc7fc.jpgd6bd4dd2a5377c6816c84628befc35d0.jpg

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For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#7 my87csx481

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 01:55 PM

I think (from memory) the basic steps for removal are (may not be in the exact order, and may not be complete):

  • remove the muffler
  • disconnect and remove the battery (I put a zip tie around the negative terminal, to hold the "nut" in place to make installation easier)
  • remove the reverse relays by popping out the rivets (Judge's video)
  • remove the reverse wiring harness
  • I disconnected/removed a bunch of electrical stuff to make it easier to remove the the bracket and reverse motor
  • remove the allen screw holding the adjustable linkage to the arm going to the chain case yoke
  • remove the 5 bolts holding the plastic bracket
  • pull it out of the way or remove it completely (I can't remember if I pulled it completely at some point)
  • remove one (or both) of the fasteners holding the linkage attached to the motor
  • remove the 3 bolts holding the motor to the bracket
  • pull the motor and throw it on the ground forcfully
  • exclaim "take that you mf'er"
  • I removed my chain case cover and did a fluid change at this point

Install is basically the reverse of removal. Some things to keep in mind:

  • The shorter hex head bolts replace the longer one from the electric setup (see image below)
  • The longer linkage goes on the opposite side that the short one did from the electric setup
  • You reuse the allen screw from step 6 above, and use the new one for the other end of the reused linkage (see image below)
  • rockerdan's video will show how to install the lever/handle
  • marksvt's video shows how to remove the plastic shroud around the reverse lever....and I think this was the last piece, and bolt that I installed
  • It might be a good idea to test it out, make sure everything works.....before committing to cutting the hole

I think that covers most of it.

If anyone has anymore questions, just ask (in here, or PM).
b33e39eddb825f5a4c717718cf50dfed.jpg


Edited by my87csx481, 25 January 2019 - 10:30 AM.

For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#8 Legrand

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 05:33 PM

This is way more than I hoped for. Thanks a million.

#9 my87csx481

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 06:00 PM

No problem.  Shoot me a PM if you have more questions.  Or ask here.


For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#10 my87csx481

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 10:22 AM

I edited a couple of steps and posts above, for better clarity.

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For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#11 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 09:05 AM

I have seen problems with the shoulder bolt that holds the pivot come loose

causing loss of reverse (same for the shoulder bolt on the handle )

its the bolt in the above photo with out any arrows 

easy fix just add loctite and tighten  


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#12 Legrand

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 09:50 AM

So I blew the rollers on my secondary clutch before all the parts arrived to switch over to mechanical reverse. After removing shaft to replace the rollers on the secondary clutch and reassembling everything, the electronic reverse works again. Go figure.

 

I'm keeping the parts to convert it to manual reverse though, and will do so either in the summer or when the electronic revers stops working again, whichever comes first. Thanks again for the info.



#13 jrhoads23

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Posted 28 May 2020 - 11:39 AM

In your photo with the red arrows (upper left) you have the note "new longer linkage". I ordered one of these linkages (double ball joint 504152710) but I got the shorter one. How do I specify the longer one? If you look at a parts diagram Ski-Doo shows both the short one (#100 in diagram for 2014 GSX 1200 SE) and the long one (#94 in diagram for 2014 GSX 1200 SE) - but yet they are the same part number???

 

https://www.skidoopa...30/drive-system



#14 my87csx481

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Posted 28 May 2020 - 02:29 PM

Copied right from the order I placed:

 

504152710 Double Ball Joint | Package Sport - Double Ball Joint | Package Sport

1

 

 

I have no idea if the reverse linkage configuration for the 2014 GSX is the same as a 2017 GT.  But that part number is the longer arm for 2017 GT's with no electronic reverse (the sport versions).


For Sale - BNIB Yellow ski handle pair - 505070917:  https://www.dootalk....pair-505070917/

 

For Sale - Grip n Rip Brace Bundle, C&T Heat Exchanger Protectors:  https://www.dootalk....ger-protectors/

 

How-To - Parts list and basic "how-to" convert electro-mechanical reverse to mechanical:  https://www.dootalk....-to-mechanical/

 

tn_gallery_379834_11338_42516.jpg


#15 jrhoads23

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 08:30 AM

Just wanted to piggy back on this great thread. I did a electric to manual conversion this week on my 2015 GSX 1200 SE. I was having issues with my reverse actuator motor (see my other post about troubleshooting it). Rather than pay to replace the motor I was able to get the parts to go to manual much cheaper and, although e-Reverse is nice, having the piece of mind of a manual works for me (my wife will be riding is some and would have no idea how to troubleshoot if there were issues).

 

These instructions were great. And like he mentioned, it is pretty straight forward process (removing the motor, ...). Probably the most difficult part I had was finding the correct length linkage. What I found is the short one and the long one have the same part number (?). I ordered it and got the short one and had to return it. I was able to find the longer one used on eBay and see an actual picture of it so I knew I was getting the correct one.

 

A couple notes I can add... like other people have mentioned my side panel has the cutout line on the outside which I followed with a dremel and jigsaw to cut out. There is also a similar faint line on the inside of the panel - this is a larger area so make sure NOT to cut out using this line and use the line on the OUTSIDE. Even using that outside line, my cutout was a little too large. One thing to note is that my side panels are not original - they are from a 2011. So maybe the cutout for a 2015 is a little smaller and if I had ones from that year, they might fit better. Even still, it isnt the end of the world and I can live with it.

 

Thanks again for the great writeup!

 

 

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