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Coolant leak


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#1 Machining Jim

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 07:17 PM

Seems as this is pretty common issue but i thought id post anyway as i havent seen anything relating to my parti ular issue. So I noticed a small amount of coolant collecting on the plastic belly pan just below the primary clutch. Took as many parts off as I felt comfortable taking off and got looking around expecting to find a bad hose clamp but didn't. I noticed a drop of coolant clinging to the head of a bolt with the word drain above it with an arrow pointing to it. I assume that this is the watter pump as its circular and had a pretty big hose coming out of the center of it. My thoughts are that the drain gasket is leaking on this bolt. Do you think it will seal back up after it gets warm a couple times or is this something that needs to be changed? My boiler leaks a little in the summer when we don't use it but it always seals back up when we put it back into service in the winter. Wonder if this logic applies in this case? Anyone have or see this issue before?

Thanks in advance!

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#2 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 07:50 PM

no gasket on those bolts 

you can put thread sealant on the threads of that bolt


09 1200, renegade ,precision 5128, powderlites header/IC/ intake, Motec, Tapp, ID1000,  DD floating qrs
16 1200, renegade red/white edrive-3g, pilot ts and quick adjust 

14 900 ace renegade for daughter 

 


#3 Machining Jim

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 07:57 PM

no gasket on those bolts
you can put thread sealant on the threads of that bolt

If I back it out a touch is it going to spew coolant everywhere. Just need a turn or 2 to squeeze some rtv in around the head. Could a person use block seal or is that crazy? I kinda feel like it might not be the best idea.

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#4 Bestia

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:23 PM

The bolt you're talking about is the water pump drain bolt.  It seals with a copper crush washer.  Torque is ~97 in-lbs therefore try just hitting it at the correct torque.  You'll be surprised how the vibrations loosen bolts on a sled.  I checked the torque on the two bolts for the water pump to block on my sled a couple of years ago and they turned a good 1/2 turn before I hit 97 in-lbs!  Now I check them all before the season starts.



#5 Machining Jim

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:35 PM

The bolt you're talking about is the water pump drain bolt. It seals with a copper crush washer. Torque is ~97 in-lbs therefore try just hitting it at the correct torque. You'll be surprised how the vibrations loosen bolts on a sled. I checked the torque on the two bolts for the water pump to block on my sled a couple of years ago and they turned a good 1/2 turn before I hit 97 in-lbs! Now I check them all before the season starts.

I took a bunch more parts off the sled tonight to get a better look and then I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and blew dry. I then went out to a loan a tool place and picked up a pressure tester and bought a mirror. Didn't have time to pressure test yet but I did take a quick peak with the mirror and it seems as though the whole seam underneath is wet like it's leaking from above someplace...or I didn't get that area dried with the blow gun. Ah well put some pressure on it tommorow and see what's what. Really not wanting to get into changing the gasket between the plastic and alum hsg but may need too. Might be a job I sub out....any idea the cost on something like that?

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#6 Bestia

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 08:01 PM

Check if the pressure tester you borrowed will fit the reservoir.  I know BRP has a pressure test cap but you'll have to buy it (doubt dealer will lend it out).  Start with the obvious and check the torque on all the bolts (all 97 in-lbs).  If your pressure tester doesn't pan out, just start up the sled, get it to temp and with a flash light, have a look around.  I remember riding three years ago and found coolant below my primary clutch.  Ended up being my oil cooler was leaking coolant out the bottom and it just ran everywhere on the bottom of the pan.

 

If it's your water pump gasket(s) leaking (either block side or housing it's bolted to), it's only a matter of removing the drain bolt, drain the coolant (have plastic and catch pans all underneath (little messy), unbolt the pump, clean up everything and install new gasket.  Let me know how it goes tomorrow.  If you had to pay a Tech to replace those gaskets, I'm guessing they will charge you ~2 hours labour.  Gaskets probably cost $20/ea.



#7 Machining Jim

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 08:14 PM

Check if the pressure tester you borrowed will fit the reservoir. I know BRP has a pressure test cap but you'll have to buy it (doubt dealer will lend it out). Start with the obvious and check the torque on all the bolts (all 97 in-lbs). If your pressure tester doesn't pan out, just start up the sled, get it to temp and with a flash light, have a look around. I remember riding three years ago and found coolant below my primary clutch. Ended up being my oil cooler was leaking coolant out the bottom and it just ran everywhere on the bottom of the pan.

If it's your water pump gasket(s) leaking (either block side or housing it's bolted to), it's only a matter of removing the drain bolt, drain the coolant (have plastic and catch pans all underneath (little messy), unbolt the pump, clean up everything and install new gasket. Let me know how it goes tomorrow. If you had to pay a Tech to replace those gaskets, I'm guessing they will charge you ~2 hours labour. Gaskets probably cost $20/ea.

Thanks for the info, dosent look to complicated. The only part of the job that worries me is getting to the bolt on the bottom on the block side. I can't see. Maybe once the hose is removed it will show itself. Keep you posted!

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#8 wileo

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 10:55 PM

I've see where you can put a rag over the end of a shop vac and have someone put it on the coolant bottle

Then you can pull that bolt and hopefully not loose much coolant

#9 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 06:51 AM

replace the pump housing is the best fix
its not a horable job

09 1200, renegade ,precision 5128, powderlites header/IC/ intake, Motec, Tapp, ID1000,  DD floating qrs
16 1200, renegade red/white edrive-3g, pilot ts and quick adjust 

14 900 ace renegade for daughter 

 


#10 Machining Jim

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 02:43 PM

So I pumped up the system up to 15 psi. Cap is rated for 16psi so I figured I was safe. It stayed there for over an hour but a small puddle appeared on the floor about the size of a roll of elec tape. Got my inspection mirror out and sure enough the seam on the hsg is wet again. Looks like the hsg is coming off. No I just have to talk myself into doing it......the mechanic at my local ship said he'd do it in a couple hrs but I figure I'm only 5 bolts away from having it changed now so I might as well keep going. Not looking forward to burping it though.

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#11 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 03:01 PM

the hose is the hardest part

did you remove the exhaust manifold?


09 1200, renegade ,precision 5128, powderlites header/IC/ intake, Motec, Tapp, ID1000,  DD floating qrs
16 1200, renegade red/white edrive-3g, pilot ts and quick adjust 

14 900 ace renegade for daughter 

 


#12 Machining Jim

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 06:49 AM

the hose is the hardest part
did you remove the exhaust manifold?

No I did not. Do I need to?

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#13 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 07:39 AM

I dont know, every one I did had a header


09 1200, renegade ,precision 5128, powderlites header/IC/ intake, Motec, Tapp, ID1000,  DD floating qrs
16 1200, renegade red/white edrive-3g, pilot ts and quick adjust 

14 900 ace renegade for daughter 

 


#14 Machining Jim

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:10 AM

I dont know, every one I did had a header

Looks like it can be done with the manifold in place

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#15 Bestia

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:35 AM

The manifold may have to come off to make your life a lot easier but you be the judge (exhaust manifold gasket re-usable).

 

Don't sweat the burping process.  The key is to get the front of the sled as high as you can (blocks of wood under skis, front on a tilt trailer etc...).  I had to pull my motor 2 years ago and when I went to burp the cooling system, I did the following and it worked fine:

 

Blocks of wood under skis (put a level on your tunnel to make sure you have a good slope towards the back)

Fill reservoir while repeatedly pinching lower hose on reservoir to try to get air out.

Start engine without reservoir cap, keep pinching lower hose and add coolant as you need it.

Once heat exchangers in back are getting warm/hot, thermostat will open.  Be ready to add coolant to reservoir!

Turn off sled, fill reservoir and let engine cool down overnight.

Next day top off reservoir and you should be good to go (you can always top off after your first ride of the season)






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