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ETEC Dial A Jet

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#16 Daag44

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 01:36 AM

I just put a switch on my dash that has 6K resistance in it and tapped into the sensor harness. now at the flick of a switch I can enrich the fuel delivery if I have to get questionable fuel or I am doing long high speed trail runs.

 

Wow, nice going! So how has it worked so far with the added 6K resistance? Are there areas in the rpm/load range that are more responsive?



#17 toms500r

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 12:39 PM

I wont get a chance to give it a try till the Family day weekend.. no snow at home.



#18 Daag44

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 05:06 PM

Thx! That reminds me, does it work on a stand?



#19 toms500r

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 07:35 PM

It does work on the stand in the shop. I can hear a pitch change in the exhaust note



#20 Sorcerer

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 03:44 PM

Always wanted a range of fuel delivery that was simple and easy to adjust in the field for the etec.

 

Purchased these components last spring but did not assemble them tell today. This is nothing new or nothing i am wanting to market. Just a personal tuning tool for the complicated etec fuel system. I am sure some of our vendors have this same gizmo for tuning fuel delivery on there modified Etecs. It is built fully plug and play.

 

Just need some quality snow to test it out... Dang it.

attachicon.gif011.jpg

 Nice ! Where did you get those parts ? I need one that goes from 0 to 2000 ohm


2015 Renegade 800 Etec XRS (2014 Prototype)

2006 Mach Z 1000 SDI

2000 Mach Z 800 Millenium Edition

1993 Mach 1 670

1993 Formula Plus EFI (Stock EFI system)

1983 Blizzard 9700


#21 toms500r

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 03:50 PM

You can get the resistors an switch at a computer store and some wire an shrink tube.. 2K Ohm probably wont do much. the 6K Ohm's I added made the ECU think it's

about 10*c colder 



#22 Sorcerer

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 04:19 PM

Oh, i intend to use the resistor on my 1993 Formula Plus EFI, if the air temp sensor in the airbox should crap out, and it just might...as the ohm values seemed to high when i tested it. Sensor is obsolete, so a POT seems as the only good option... Did a search on ebay, but cant find any POT´s with included housing like the one you have.

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2015 Renegade 800 Etec XRS (2014 Prototype)

2006 Mach Z 1000 SDI

2000 Mach Z 800 Millenium Edition

1993 Mach 1 670

1993 Formula Plus EFI (Stock EFI system)

1983 Blizzard 9700


#23 Ski-B

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 05:16 PM

I purchased everything separate. All at a local electronic story. Found the Rheostat in the range i was looking for. Then purchased the box to mount the Rheostat in. Had a old knob off a Yamaha variable hand warmer switch laying around. Drilled a hole in the box, wired it, installed the knob. Then inked on some lines. 1/4  1/2  3/4 and full. Then measured the ohms at the marked ink lines, so i have some idea what the etec likes for ohm trickery, to enriching up the system.

 

Kind of wish i had a Big Bore or a highly ported etec, so i could put the Gizmo to work. LOL. 

007.jpg

 

What would work better is a four position switch. With a different resister soldered to each position. Soooo you could select  6K. 12K. 18k or what ever. The four position switch would be more secure. I am allways looking to see if the rheostat has moved or been bumped. But so far it sits on the location very well, with vibration and impact. 


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2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

 


#24 Sorcerer

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 05:27 PM

All right, nice work :smile_old:  So you are using only 2 terminals, center and one of the end/side terminals ? Whats the third terminal for ?


2015 Renegade 800 Etec XRS (2014 Prototype)

2006 Mach Z 1000 SDI

2000 Mach Z 800 Millenium Edition

1993 Mach 1 670

1993 Formula Plus EFI (Stock EFI system)

1983 Blizzard 9700


#25 Ski-B

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 06:24 PM

It changes the direction of the ohms. Center is input and left or right of center... just changes the Clockwise vs counter clockwise of the ohm increase. I have it set to increase ohms on the clockwise rotation.


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

 


#26 SD440zx

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 03:33 PM

I find this an interesting post.

 

Questions:

1. since you are fooling the ECM could this damage the engine in any way?

2.  I have a 2016 600etec MXZX and it misses or pops after a mid range run at 6500RPMs. When you stab the throttle it pops or drops out for a second then takes off. Would this help this issue? FYI- I do run 91 octane non ethanol gas and the sled is bone stock.

3 can you list the part number of the connector you bought and maybe post a close up picture of the connector (plugged in and not plugged it to see how you wired it?

 

Thanks


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#27 Ski-B

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 09:05 PM

No way to damage the engine with this device. When it is rotated to the zero position. You are running at stock fuel curve. When you rotate the dial and increase ohms. You are tricking the ecm yes.. but it is only telling the ecm that it needs to supply more fuel. So you are ether running stock fuel curve or increasing fuel curve or supply to motor.

 

It seems as tho the 14 and newer 600 etecs have running issues. Could possibly be a leaner calibration, in the ecu, to meat emission regulations.  I have a 2012 600 etec that does not have these issues that some people as seeing. 

 

I have in the past run an egt gauge on my 800R etec and on a 08 600 sdi. You would not believe how lean these motors run cruising trails at 6000-7200 rpm. Crazy lean.  With the 600 sdi i used a Boondocker fuel box to enrichen the fuel curve in that range. The etec is a little more difficult to enrichen in that rpm range. PVC fuel controller is one way BUT only available for the 800R etec motor. Not available for the 600 etec motor.

 

This dial a jet gizmo will enrichen the entire fuel curve. Bottom,mid and top. These stock etec motors do not need fuel added on top for most of our riding style.  Just in mid range.

 

The other device for adding fuel to the etec motor is the Straightline Performance fuel box, with additional injectors. I have a friend that has used this device and it works super good. You can tune it in the field in three diff areas. Bottom Mid and Top. The Straightline system would be the answer but it is expensive.

 

So in the end this Dial a jet gizmo, is kind of a band aid fix. But it is over the counter electrical parts that are inexpensive, and simple. Maybe the guys having these rpm issues on the 2014 to present? Could us more fuel all through there rpm range. It will lower the Exhaust Gas Temps and resist detonation for sure even with low octane fuel. It is amazing how much it richens the motor up. The nice part about it you can adjust it as per the daily temps and condition, with no hassle.

002.JPG

008.JPG


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

 


#28 Daag44

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:02 PM

Oh, i intend to use the resistor on my 1993 Formula Plus EFI, if the air temp sensor in the airbox should crap out, and it just might...as the ohm values seemed to high when i tested it. Sensor is obsolete, so a POT seems as the only good option... Did a search on ebay, but cant find any POT´s with included housing like the one you have.

 
I just realized the chart you posted was from the 1993 Shop Manual. It is a fantastic read. Imagine, in 1993 you could adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture of the Midrange of a Rotax Fuel Injected sled. Look at how many things explained by BRP 24 years ago rings true for the 600 and 800 ETECs. "production setting for the air/fuel mixture will provide satisfactory engine performance; however, adjustment may be required to compensate for varying operating conditions." It makes perfect sense when you consider that not all ETECs suffer from a Power Loss/Fade. Also note the last part. Fuel is needed to make power.
 
 
From the 1993 Ski-Doo Shop Manual

Air/Fuel Mixture

The mixture is automatically controlled to
compensate for varying operating conditions;
however, the system also has variable resistors
that can change idle and mid-range mixture. In
most instances, the
production setting for the
air/fuel mixture will provide satisfactory engine
performance; however, adjustment may be required
to compensate for varying operating conditions.


The air/fuel mixture for engine speeds below
3,500 rpm can be adjusted slightly by setting the
idle mixture adjuster shown at B, Figure 23.

....

The air/fuel mixture in the mid-range can be
adjusted by setting the mid-range adjusting
screw (Figure 24) located on the top of the air
silencer.

a. Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature.


b. Run the snowmobile at about 3,500-4,500
rpm in conditions as near as possible to
normal operating conditions.

 
c. Turn the mid-range mixture adjuster (Figure
24) as required to obtain the best midrange
performance.


d. It may be desirable to set the mid-range
mixture adjuster (Figure 24) slightly richer
(counterclockwise) to improve acceleration
and reduce bogging down.


Edited by Daag44, 17 May 2017 - 12:12 PM.


#29 crxski

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 07:27 AM

Great read, do any of you guys know how much fuel the ECM adds during break in? Wondering if it's similar to what you are achieving and does break in do it throughout the rpm range? I've only experienced the burping Etc during break in on my 2011.
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#30 Ski-B

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 01:51 PM

Hello. We have been riding here for the past couple weeks. Early start to the season. Here is hoping all us dootalkers have a great 2018 season. :righton

 

Update on Dial-A-Jet. This season i have a dual probe EGT gauge hooked up to monitor the exhaust gas temps on this etec engine with Dial-A-Jet full rich and full lean.

 

I have been told by more than one person that this system just does not work for adding fuel. Not trying to prove any one wrong or right. Just trying to get some Data on this Gizmo to see if it actually works.

 

Here is what i am finding. Dail-A-jet full lean on a given day.

Midrange 6000-7000 rpm EGT are very high cruising @ 6500 rpm for one mile. Temps creep creeping up to 1280F before backing out of the throttle. This is steady throttle no flipping of the lever at all.

Same setting full lean, or stock fuel curve Wide open throttle for 1 mile. EGT are 1225F max.

 

Now with the Dial-AJet full rich position. Same day.

Midrange 6000-7000 rpm EGT are still very high cruising @ 6500 rpm for one mile. Temps still creep up to 1280 F before backing off.

Same setting full rich. Wide open throttle for 1 mile. EGT temps never go over 1175F Max. Most of the time 1150-1160 range. Repeatable back to back runs no change.

 

Sooo. I am thinking this Gizmo is working. Adding extra fuel to pull egt temps down 50 deg F is not real big, but good enough to think it is working to some degree.

 

I have run this thing from -16 deg C to -1 deg C. It works best on the cold days. Warm days the sled run slugging having hard time pulling rpm. Also verified Y pipe color after full throttle runs. There is a significant diff in color in side the Y pipe full rich vs full lean. 

003.JPG


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

 





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