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Clutch alignment on Rev

21K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  Daag44 
#1 ·
Looking at my repair manual and seeing how to align the clutches, I do not have an alignment bar but it looks like just a straight piece of metal. My question is can I just get a piece of square bar and use that instead of the tool they show in the book. By the way I can find the tool anywhere online using the skidoo part number.

I checked out the FAQ section but it looks like that thread has had a lot of content removed , and lots of people arguing over how to do it correctly.
Appreciate anyone who can give me a rundown on how to check the alignment.

Thank You!
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
My aluminum bar is 3/8" thick, 2" wide, and 19" long.

Had it for many years..cant remember were I got it.

Thickness of the bar doesn't really matter as long as fits down in the secondary and only hits the shaft but not the sheave on the primary.

There is not much you can adjust on the revs.. just the shims behind the secondary to get X close.

If Y is not .060 more than X.. or Z is off.. then better check motor mounts or for something bent.

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#5 ·
The thickness of the bar does not really matter, just keep in mind the measurements the manual gives are with a 3/8ths bar. You will have to take any difference into account with a different thickness bar.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
The thickness of the bar does not really matter, just keep in mind the measurements the manual gives are with a 3/8ths bar. You will have to take any difference into account with a different thickness bar.
The X-Y measurements in the chart above stay the same regardless of the thickness of the bar..as the measurement is taken from the stationary secondary sheave side of the bar.

A thicker bar will open secondary a little more and a thinner bar will open it a little less.

The side of the bar that you measure from is still in the same relationship to the primary.. no matter how thick the bar is.
 
#7 ·
The X-Y measurements in the chart above stay the same regardless of the thickness of the bar..as the measurement is taken from the stationary secondary sheave side of the bar.

A thicker bar will open secondary a little more and a thinner bar will open it a little less.
The side of the bar that you measure from is still in the same relationship to the primary.. no matter how thick the bar is.
Yep you are correct. I was thinking the outer sheeve on the secondary was moving instead of the inner sheeve, D'OH!
 
#9 ·
I've read this over about twenty times trying to get into my head what this is about. Is the time to check this measurement after you've taken the engine out and reinstalled it? Do you check that measurement yearly to make sure the motor mounts are still good and or haven't moved? Looks like the measurement at Y or the furthest point away from the secondary is a bit larger. I'm guessing so when the drag of the belt when engaged, will twist the engine to the rear, from the torque making them basically parallel under load? I know that's convoluted but I want to understand it if possible. It's a pretty close tolerance, .060. What are you using to take that measurement? Caliper?
 
#10 ·
Thanks everyone for the input, im thinking I will just use a level to do this then, (will have to make sure the level is straight I guess).

And yes I believe the time to do this is anytime you remove the motor and probably yearly, like you said to see if the motor mounts have worn out and taken it out of spec, or like mentioned above if you have bent something from taking a hit, or maybe even if you bearings have worn out.
 
#11 ·
The offset measurement is do to engine twist under load. Calipers are used to take the measurements. It can be checked as often as you like but after engine removal is a good idea. Also i will mention, I have messed with my belt alignment many times and still had belt issues even though it is within the alignment spec. So consider it more of a starting point. The biggest issue is ensuring the engine twist stop is snug against the motor
 
#12 ·
Btw

I like to check alignment with the torque stop loosened up and always check before removing an engine.

I have found a few engines that y was only .020 or less and z was like .050 to .070 short.

After removing these engines I discovered cracked and deformed motor mount rubbers.

After fixing the mounts and reinstalling the engines.. the #s were a lot closer to spec.

I changed out the motor plates on my revs to the 440 plates which is way better design... but used 440 plates are getting really hard to find now a days.

just sayin
 
#13 ·
Ok. Thanks for my part. At least I understand. So the bottom line is it doesn't make any difference
What you use as a straight edge because the x and y measurements are irrelevant. The measurement you're interested in is the difference between them (x and y). Thanks guys.
 
#14 ·
X and Y are not irrelevant, but the thickness of the bar is irrelevant as you are measuring from the outer surface of the bar, the same surface that's against the fixed sheave of the secondary. X and Y can be corrected by adding or subtracting shim thickness behind the secondary. The torque stop can be used to change the Y minus X measurement and will also obviously increase the Z clearance the more it is tightened. I totally agree with TwoRevs on the motor mounts being a common problem on the se sleds as the miles get high. Most I have worked on were shot, especially the pto side. On my 800, I was unable to find a good 440 setup so I bit the bullet and bought all new 440 stuff. Pricey, but it made the motor rock solid.
 
#17 ·
Just an FYI, a larger Y-X skew may be needed with worn engine mounts. Also the X offset is an amount for average riding conditions in the 2:1 clutch ratio. So if a day breaking trail runs the clutches too far out of these two alignments the belt will wear fast. Using the torque stop to force compensate for an alignment issue brings a new set of problems with the engine rubber mounts.

So, what would be the best Y-X and X for breaking trail? And will gearing affect the clutch alignment?

I am sure someone has figured out how to make adjustments to the alignment on the REVs. It was said not possible on the RT and XP and XS and XM, yet they all have been done.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
We used to unfloat the secondarys back in the day.. lol

But even on those old prs and f & s chassis.. the procedure was to line the clutchs to spec with secondary up against the bearing.

I think skidoo stopped floating on the zx.

I think the theory of the floating secondary back then was to help with alignment during deceleration.

But the clutch would shift over and sometimes not slide back to the bearing upon acceleration... due to the force.

We got more belt life with them unfloated and good alignment.

just sayin
 
#25 ·
I haven't seen much if any galling after keeping the shaft lubed on the old F and S chassis. Could that be what is causing the problem when floating the Rev? The way that I have calculated the required shims on the Rev was to remove the secondary bolt and run the track at my normal cruising speed to see where the secondary wanted to sit. It has been somewhat of a hit and miss, and I'm guessing it would fall closer to a black art lol What I would give to be able to load the track some and use an infrared heat gun.
 
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