Below are a couple of good posts from UPMICHIGANDER to solve hot clutches and blown belts in deep snow conditions. While there is a mention to PM him, as far as I know he has already shared the essentials in these two posts. The full story can pretty much be found across various topics. I don't believe it is necessary to PM him to get any secrets for the reasons that I just mentioned.
There are also experienced members, sponsors and moderators who have shared their insights on clutch alignment, gearing and clutching. Some of them, like Dynamo^Joe
and C & T Powersports
can be found from page 2 and on of this topic, while others like MX-Z Man
and Big John
can be found in other topics. Instead of suggesting to search and spend countless hours trying to find everything, I added a hyperlink to their handle names so that you can just click to find their posts.
I believe that UPMICHIGANDER provided well rounded informational posts that showed how he addressed the problem with BRP's help and parts (for the most part). There was a mention of a doodoctor floating qrs, but he did not use it to fix the problem. The QRS Tech Link was used, but I don't believe it was necessary. This is the reason why I didn't highlight it in the quotes found below.
There is something that a known racer on the MachZ forum tough me years ago about clutching that always stuck. He said - and I paraphrase in my own words - that I should first learn to how address hot clutches with stock components before getting into fancy mods. He is a racer so obviously he mods, but the point was to avoid cheating the basics. My motto is, if there is a problem then find the cause and fix it.
In another topic a member mashby
mentioned the engine torque stopper adjustment (click here
). I see this adjustment seldom being mentioned. The Summit has zero clearance due to its nature of riding in deep snow. A Freeride or Backcountry is not setup from factory for everyone. It is simply a base setup meant for the average conditions, riding styles and rider weight. So please feel free to make the necessary adjustments.
Another thing that is seldom if ever mentioned is the function of the engine mounts. They are meant to isolate the vibrations of the engine from the frame. The position of the supports on the engine and the frame affect how the vibrations are conducted to the frame. What is important to remember is the engine Rubber Mounts share the load of the engine torque while it moves to apply a load to the primary. This torque is meant to be shared among the 4 engine mounts as evenly as possible. Any adjustment to the engine stopper or any addition of a torque arm will change the load shared on the 4 engine mounts. So if you make any adjustments to the oem engine stopper or add an aftermarket torque arm, please keep a close eye on all the mounts and make it part of your preseason and midseason maintenance list.
Regarding vibrations, click this link
for a good post on the subject for the 800s. This topic has some of the best information imo, including the links provided above. I hope that it helps.
Its a 3 part problem. Just went through it on my freeride. Its bad clutch calibration. Misalignment and gearing.
Summits get a jack shaft that is 3mm longer. There is a bulletin addressing it and states its for heavier snow loads. My freerides secondary was 3.6 mm in towards the chain case. Plus my belt was slipping 100% of the time. Massive amounts of belt dust and hot clutches.
I have a brand new summit jack shaft with bearing and fixed sheave. (Keep your 40 degree helix and your un fixed sheave to attach to this) (requires pulling your bearing)
A black 160/303 secondary spring
441 ramps with spring pins
A purple/pink 260/350 spring
Keep your (18.8 solid pins)
All brand new never used still in the package. 400 plus shipping. Basically getting the ramps and springs for free.
Problem solved for the cost of 2 belts, pm me.
This is in the freeride thread on the same topic
well ill let the cat out of the bag. I got all my parts warrantied and brp admitted its a known issue. As far as i know im the only one that they have done this for. At least i know im the only case about it on the BOSS website.
I got all new clutch parts, the summit shaft, 19/49 gears, and a qrs tech link for free. And all through a dealer that i didn't even buy the sled from. If you go to your dealer and say a guy on dootalk got this deal i promise your answer will be no. I got the opportunity to deal with brp directly. I went about it in a different way then all. I fully expected doo to tell me to get bent so i bought all the stuff myself and a doodoctor floating qrs. That is why i have duplicates of everything im trying to sell at a fraction of new.
You may not have blown a belt yet with 20/45 but if you start climbing you will.
My experience still is that the best setup is proper alignment, qrs tech link and a DJ kit.
I don't need vents and in fact plugged 2 with the prefilter kit because my clutches don't get hot anymore.
Pm me if you want more info but my best advice is get a laser thermometer and let that be the determining factor if your belt is slipping or not. If you have a lot of belt dust you are slipping.