To start off I have listed a few items that you will need to complete this job:

·         Digital Temp Gauge 2 1/16” (Cyberdyne A020E50Y)

·         5mm Allen wrench (Thermostat housing plug)
8mm Hex wrench (Wind defletor)
9mm Hex wrench (Gauge nuts)
Crimpers and Diagonal Cutters
Torx 27 (Windshield bolts)

Phillips #2 (Dash screws)
14mm Box wrench (Sender unit )
Turkey Baster ¼: Fuel line 12” approx (Removal of Anti-Freeze)

·         Soldiering Iron
Solder
Ski-doo Male Connector (409204200) x1

Ski-d oo Male Terminal (409210000) x2
16-18AWG Barrel Connector M/F
Shrink Tape

Black Rtv (sealing hole on gauge)

Pipe Joint Compound with Teflon (Seal sender)

·         Milwaukee 1/2" magnum drill

2" Hole Saw with pilot bit

5/32 pilot bit

 

2 beer job and 1hr good music...

Let's get started

 

 

First you need to remove your windshield. Mine is attached to my handle bars so I used a Torx 27 to remove the four bolts and place in magnetic tray.



Next you want to remove the handlebar cap and lower consol bezel. Be careful only attached with plastic tabs light pressure is needed to remove do not pry off!

 

Next locate the 2 screws (Phillips) in side your dash consol below each gauge remove and place in magnetic tray.

Remove 2 screws (Phillips) holding Dash above headlight and place in magnetic tray.

Next you will need to lift up on the dash, carefully reach under and pull on both tach and speedo connectors pushing tab in on bottom to release from gauge. (Mine were a little stubborn) The connector I am holding is the one you will use to illuminate your new gauge. Now's a good time to put dielectric grease on the connectors.

With the dash removed I flipped it over and removed the left side wind-deflector using 8mm Hex wrench top bolt with washer and Phillips screw on side.

Now comes the fun part. Drilling holes in a perfectly good dash. You only get one shot to get it right so take your time. Luckily theres a center dimple, I used a 5/32” sharp drill to punch it through

Next put pilot bit in 2” hole saw and put in drill. I always check alignment after chucking it up to make sure nothing's bent to cause an oblong hole.

And the fun begins, drill slowly and use the pilot hole you made before. Hold drill perpendicular to the dash surface. Another set of hands is always nice I just dove in and held it with my legs. (Keep in mind a drill bit and hole saw will be exiting the other side so check to make sure nothing will get caught in it)

Clean up hole and flip over. Firmly press gauge into new hole and rotate to your liking.

With gauge in flip back over. The purple wire is not going to be used.(its for a dimmer, you could power a switch and hook it to it but I opted not to) I neatly wrapped up wire and taped to back of dash. Place gauge pillar onto gauge and tighten nuts using a 9mm Hex wrench. Also top hold of gauge can be sealed with a dab of rtv I also made a plug out of rtv for the bottom hole.

Now I chose to soldier the connections instead of crimping you can do either way but soldering provides a better contact. Drink beer enjoy music while your soldering iron heats up. You can also crimp the barrel connectors on the white gauge wire and onto the supplied white wire cut to 1'. Solder connectors onto the red and black wires on the gauge and solder send wire to 1' wire you made. (Don't forget to put your shrink wrap on before soldering)

Now that's it soldered let the connectors cool a bit then slide the red and black wire into male housing as pictured. Re-install wind deflector you took off before. Washer goes under top hex bolt between deflector and dash. Phillips goes in side.

Let that sit for now and grab the turkey baster and ¼” fuel line extension hose to suck out half the fluid in the overflow reservoir.(Mag Side)

Goto Pto side and locate the thermostat housing. On top you will see a plug to remove use 5mm allen wrench. No fluid should come out. Take pipe joint compound and apply a light amount to threads on sender. Screw in, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!! It is a brass sender and can snap. Tighten till snug using 14mm box wrench. Fill saved anti-freeze back into reservoir, I took rubber top off baster and used like a funnel since its such a tight area.



Route Sender wire up the center and zip tie to main harness.

Grab that dash you set aside earlier and carefully slide into position. Reach under and hook up the new connections for the gauge, then hook up the connectors for the tach and speedo. Screw back on and place Handlebar cup and dash bezel into position. Check for tools and make sure fluid is topped off and cap is replaced to top of reservoir , start your sled up.

Gauge will flash low until it reaches 70 degrees and will flash high above 150 degrees. Enjoy!! Normal operation 120 degrees thermostat opens 108 degrees .



Submitted by 1999jby1999