ChrisTyler

09 600rs set up for trails, I just replaced the fuel pump sense it was dumping fuel into the pulse line. Now it seems to be lean on the bottom. At first it would be boggy all over if you snapped it anywhere it would bog then go or at idle if you snapped it wot it would bog and die.

I then set the air bleed back to stock and it then would rev fine unless you were running it at say 4k for a bit then when you returned to idle and snapped it, it would bog again. However if you let it sit idling for a few seconds it starts to rev fine again.

Now I know your gonna say its the new pump not keeping up but the pumps fine. I bought the sled in the summer and so far have never seen it run right.

My carbs set up as follows
300 mains w/ powerjets
45 pilot
1 turn out air screw
Clip 2nd from top
Running 91 w/ 33:1 xps semi

I have 120 dead on each side(my gague reads low)

I've cleaned the carbs, checked for air leaks with break clean, and my reeds look good. I've been trying to figure this thing out for a while now and I'm about to go insane lol

Side note, during most of the testing the air box was off, the sensor was plugged in but just sitting ontop of the air box. I don't see that causing this though.

It basically feels like the sleds running out of fuel but it has plenty, like I said me and a friend have been trying to figure it out for the last 3 nights.

Also should I be able to see the power jets working, ive revved it up on the lift but never seen the jets flow fuel.

The sled is a 09 600rs. It will start fine after primed and idle smooth and take throttle then it will start bogging and will either die or idle really low. If you prime it more it will keep running and reving but then it will run out of fuel again and bog down. I thought I fixed it sense I saw that the pulse line to the pump appeared to be almost falling off but now it's doing it again after actually being able to take it for a ride. I got maybe 50ft and it bogged.

Like I said its very intermittent, sometimes it will run fine but then just start boging. Or it will bog right from start up.

I've cleaned the carbs twice checked to make sure the fuel pump is getting fuel to the carbs and also changed plugs. There's no indicating of a air leak, no hanging idle or stutter, it will either go like a train or bog like someone hit the kill but primer will save it.

I still think it could be the pump as I only checked fuel flow at idle, I got about 30ml in 3-5 seconds.

What do you guys think?

We finally have snow and now I can't go out, I need more ideas

Thanks

Ps I know the tittle is spelt wrong, darn auto correct!

I went to start my sled tonight, hasn't been started in a few weeks and this was the first cold night yet. It took about 4 pulls to start with about 4 primes. When it did start I had to keep it going with the primer for a bit then it idled on its own. After idling for about 20seconds I started just to give it a little throttle and when ever I would let it idle compelty down it would idle really low and stall. It was running fine last time I started it.

I cleaned the carbs when I first got it and drained all the fuel, when I added fresh fuel I added stabil. Each cylinder has 120psi.

It seems like its running out of fuel, are the fuel pumps known to go bad? I'll check for any pinched lines tomorrow.

Has anyone else seen this?

Thanks

So I bought a pair of white sliders from my dealer the other day and I just went to put them on now.
They told me they would fit any xp shorty and came already cut...

Here's a picture, too short?

Skids from a 09 600rs

This is a How To for wiring in a temp module when not equipped with a OEM harness.

To start off you'll wanna run down to your local dealer and pick up / order a FEMALE pin connector for the gauge cluster, I recommend bringing one with you to show them.(I just pulled a pin out and cut the wire to bring with me) Buy a few just in case, I paid 7$ for 3!

You'll also need; wire cutter/crimpers, a heat source, a short piece of 22 gauge wire, and some sort of wire connector or solder with shrink tubing(I used shrinking marine butt connectors with built in adhesive), and of course the module.



Step 1 - Removing your console

First remove your gauges by pushing down the locking tabs through the 2 slits on the top with a long flat blade, the disconnect gauge.
Next remove the 5 screws as shown below.




Then disconnect your head lights by simply pulling the connectors off.



Now pull your console up and forward.




Step 2 - locating pins and wires

Open up your gauge cluster connector by unclipping the 3 clips shown here.



You'll see that every pin hole has a # beside it, this is what I'll refer wires by.
Find pin # 11, 7, and 14.
#11 should be a black wire
#7 should be red with a tracer
#14 should be a empty hole



Step 3 - Wiring

Trace back 11 and 7 and cut them at least 2-3 inches back from connector and strip both ends of wire.
Now cut your plug off your module and strip those ends as well.
using your 22gauge wire and a connector of your choice add this wire onto the end of the white wire.
(The white will be too big to fit into the pin hole so that's why we add the smaller wire)
Then connect your very expensive brp pin connector to the end of the wire you just added and insert it into pin 14, make sure it's fully seated.



Now splice in your module wires with 7 and 11, Black to Black, Red to Red.
I crimped one end of a butt connector to the wire coming from the connector then inserted the module wire with the other end of the cut wire into the other end then crimped and shrunk it all.





Step 4 - Test it, Mount it, Done!

Plug your gauge in and fire her up!



Make sure you have the temp bar then shut it down and disconnect.
Now zip tie your module onto the harness as shown here.



Reassemble and your done!

Don't overheat out there and have fun with your new function