Powder Pigs...

I think people need to realize that this is a mass produced sled for more than just a few dootalkers and the majority of people; even those commenting don't need any better shock than comes on the stock sled.  Floats need allot of adjusting to make them work great in all conditions and if you do the adjustments I'm sure that your sled will perform better than the stocker.  BUT... how many people ever touch the stock settings on their machine???  I would almost bet that 50% of sleds that leave the dealership never get adjusted.

I personally would spend the extra $500-$1000 for a few bells and whistles on my sled...  Better shocks, stiffer boards, better climbing/powder skid, some of the features that the 600RS has... but customers are very price sensitive and everyone already complains that we spend too much for our sleds as it is.

If you honestly want to tell me that there is a "PERFECT" skid for trails/powder/steep hills/jumping/bagging/rolling/boondocking I want to see it.  I have priced out almost every aftermarket skid there is and everyone who sells them that is honest will tell you that there is compromise.  You can't have the BEST of all worlds.

I would like to see a picture of a float on a scale VS. our stock X shock to prove to people that it isn't much lighter.  2 Pounds per set???

If you run the sled without the plastic adjuster and you ever need to change the belt it will be vertually impossible to do so as threading the plastic adjuster in clockwise spreads the clutches allowing the belt to drop down and be changed.  

Belt deflection is based on personal preference in many ways.  I like to run mine as tight as possible as it starts in a lower gear; it will squeel and free wheel when the sled is at idle but when I get on the throttle there is no hesitation.  Running the belt higher is also supposed to allow it too cool as it will circulate air around the clutches.

Personally I like both adjusters, the plastic one is easier to use and adjust but the metal one seems more reliable as far as not changing the ride height or backing out while riding.

I just got mine back with the 162.  Going to throw a 130 - 350 spring in the primary and try that out this weekend.

When you did the track swap with stock motor did you do any clutching or gearing changes?

Why don't you try tapping your DPM sensor while the sled is running at elevation.  The odd one has been sticking.  Do a plug run to see if it is running fat or not???  My 63 had the DPM stick the first day and I was down 800-1000 RPM fixed it the second day.  Rode boulder a couple weeks ago and pulled 8200 RPM all day long.  Even doubling out from Turbo in a 1.5-2 feet of fresh still had no issues pulling RPM.  I was on clicker 5-6 and added weight to my sled clutch.  Why do you talk about 8100 RPM on clicker 4 or 5?  Why aren't we talking about 8200-8300 on clicker 6???  That is what the motor calls for.  8200