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Brought her home tonight.....Impressed!


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#511 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:11 PM

SHOCKS:

 

I SOLD the NEW shocks that came in my RAS2 kit, this was the main reason I could justify buying this kit, because I have an awesome dealer I came within dollars of paying for the entire kit with shock sale.   So I simply reinstalled my shocks.

 

I labelled my shocks R or L before removal, not sure if that matters but just thought it might be good to get them back to their orig location.

 

New nylock nuts again from kit...

 

Orig bolts, and upper bolt has a washer.....while lower black bolt does not.

 

 

NEW SHOCKS FROM KIT:

If you are using the new shocks, you can install the NEW springs onto the new shocks easily by hand.  Just lower the threaded adjusting collar to lowest it can go. hold the bottom spring seat/collar from kit in one hand.  Now install the new spring with "tang" end down, and lay tang into the groove on the threaded adjusting collar.  Put shock on work bench vertical with adjuster end downward...Now press down on spring while inserting seat/collar around shock shaft at same time and seat spring into seat/collar.  Now install the little red "clicker" knob, and small screw that holds knob on from kit.

 

Sorry I did not get pics of this....I did this awhile back, to get the new shocks and springs ready for new owner.

 

.........

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 08:36 PM.


#512 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:15 PM

Shock Bolt heads toward front of sled....nuts rearward. Once the shocks are bolted on and everything is torqued down, you can install ski's and lower sled back onto ground...

 

Once sled is lowered, you can work on ski stance/parallelism.  

 

I always like to use a straight edge against track, and measure off this to your ski center,at front and rear of ski.  This will get your ski parallel with track....do this while handlebars are perfectly straight.   Now adjust the other ski off the first ski, and do your CtC.... and then add in a slight toe out.

 

 

....................

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 08:38 PM.


#513 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:32 PM

Ras2 all done....

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:39 PM.


#514 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:36 PM

New View with post forward....Feels way better!

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#515 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:37 PM

Post forward closeup....

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#516 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:52 PM

Also Installed my new Yamaha DUPONT sliders today....

 

Shorty length, cut down to  39.25"

 

Bevel rear on grinder.

 

...............

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:56 PM.


#517 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:59 PM

Use a proper #3 philips socket, these had to be the easiest sliders ive ever changed....slide right out thru window with a little silicone spray on track window.....Slide new ones back in, only a few minutes to do with track loosened off and Chris's great side stand post.

 

 

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#518 dave583

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:00 PM

Also picked up some of the Dupont VESPEL sliders(BY YAMAHA) that are now made for BRP profile. Very cool design up close, the inserts have holes to hold snow which helps to cool the inserts.

Dealer again gave me a good price, still pricy though at my cost. But if it increases MPG, and top speed, and never needs changing, then they pay for themselves.

............

I am going to get those next year...

#519 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:02 PM

Only thing sucks IMO....is there is no line on the side of these, I like how BRP slides have that line "wear indicator"

 

But if they last like they should, it wont matter....

 

20mm total height on oustide, and 10mm to wear point, so at least i know.

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 December 2014 - 09:58 PM.


#520 DooDown87

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:38 PM

Looking great as always!  Really love your build posts, great to have you on this site!!!


Life is short, keep moving on!

 

 


#521 im4snow

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:44 PM

Fantastic write up as usual. I'm contemplating the RAS kit but it would depend on being able to sell the original shocks etc......wonder if there's much of a market for the original parts?

#522 Rich Jelinek

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 09:51 PM

Question for you rockerdan.......................I'm putting oil lite bushings in my new 2015 Renegade X 1200, and when I took everything apart there is a rubber o-ring on the bolt for the REAR UPPER a-arm bolt. It's on the bolt threads right about where the washer is that goes between the rear side of the a-arm and the body. Did your sled have these?

 

Not sure what the purpose is other than maybe when they assembled the sled, the o-ring on the end of the bolt was to keep all the spacer/washer parts from falling of during assembly ?  or ?

 

Just wondering how critical it is to put it back in there, and curious about why it's there.

 

Also, thanks for all the details & pics, -  you should write instruction manuals !

 

BTW..............you didn't want to put the Grip n Rip brace kit on it while you had it all apart ?


RICH%20BLUE%20BFR%2009-04-16_MG_0015_zps

 

 


Racebikes & racecars in the summer............................sleds in the winter.
#727  Milwaukee Yamaha R1 - my current racetrack rocket....................


#523 rockerdan

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 04:55 PM

Fantastic write up as usual. I'm contemplating the RAS kit but it would depend on being able to sell the original shocks etc......wonder if there's much of a market for the original parts?

 

This is exactly how I felt.....My dealer ordered like 30+ kits last spring and I told him id like one, he was fine without me committing.  So when the kit came in, he was selling them fast at great price, even sold a few to members here who I hooked up with my dealer. 

 

I told him to give me a few weeks more, to test the waters on selling shocks.  Once i slapped them on ebay, they went right away.  The shocks from BRP are not cheap, so selling brand new X shocks on ebay was fast.   But it was nice not having to commit until i knew I had shocks pre-sold.


Edited by rockerdan, 02 December 2014 - 04:55 PM.


#524 rockerdan

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 04:59 PM

Looking great as always!  Really love your build posts, great to have you on this site!!!

Thanks !!!      I love working on sleds, always have.  And in this day an age, its so easy to snap off pics and show whats going on, I know I enjoy seeing guys pics when they work on their sleds.   

 

I have tried to make the original post #1 an easy preface to this entire thread, and I put all quick links there so its easy access.  If anyone wants to sticky post #1 with those quick links, it would make it easy to find this.....Many times I cant even find my own thread!  lol



#525 rockerdan

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 05:10 PM

Question for you rockerdan.......................I'm putting oil lite bushings in my new 2015 Renegade X 1200, and when I took everything apart there is a rubber o-ring on the bolt for the REAR UPPER a-arm bolt. It's on the bolt threads right about where the washer is that goes between the rear side of the a-arm and the body. Did your sled have these?

 

Not sure what the purpose is other than maybe when they assembled the sled, the o-ring on the end of the bolt was to keep all the spacer/washer parts from falling of during assembly ?  or ?

 

Just wondering how critical it is to put it back in there, and curious about why it's there.

 

Also, thanks for all the details & pics, -  you should write instruction manuals !

 

BTW..............you didn't want to put the Grip n Rip brace kit on it while you had it all apart ?

Ok so if you read my post #510 about the upper A arm, REAR bolt.....sounds like this is the one you mean correct?

 

I would agree with you.....Mine did NOT have any extra Oring on the bolt there.  Im guessing it has to do with assembly as you mentioned, and also remember this is that LONGER bolt(rearward bolt) on UPPER A arm, which has TWO washers on either side of the oil lite bushings.  It seems to me, that this is because on the rearward bolt, it is against body plastics, while the forward bolt has a black metal shroud that the bushing sits against, so no need for washer on forward bolt.  

 

I dont see any need for it, other then likely it was used to keep that washer on during assembly.   Maybe going down the line, or when the worker grabs A arm, the bolts are in and this keeps washer from flopping off and not getting installed.

 

TRICK TO GETTING UPPER A ARM INTO PLACE WITH NEW OIL LITE BUSHINGS:

The Upper A arms can be tricky to get into place when adding the new oil-lite bushings....Hard to explain, but I set the forward part of A arm, and forward bolt barely into place, with just the tip of bolt holding it there, and A arm is on an angle and the forward bolt just slightly into its hole will hold the forward part in place....then at the rear,use the extra washer against the bushing as  a shoe-horn.....it wont go in easy, this is when you POP the opposite end of A arm hard with your palm, smacking the A arm at the outer end with your palm toward back of sled, will snap that rearward bushing into its seated position, and using that extra washer as a shoe-horn works great.....once I figured this out, i did it on opposite side in one shot.

 

 

As far as the Bracing...i need to touch wood here, but I have never used these types of bracing as I am a big trail/lake mile guy....I dont venture off into where stumps are typically, and I hope i dont ever need it..lol

 

Dan


Edited by rockerdan, 02 December 2014 - 05:18 PM.





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