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Brought her home tonight.....Impressed!


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#511 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 06:58 PM

Now start to attach the UPPER A Arm ball joint, to the new SPINDLE.  

 

Dont forget the washers we are re-using from old setup, new nuts as usual from kit.

 

2nd pic shows RE USED orig washer and new nuts.

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:03 PM.


#512 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:04 PM

Everything on.....keep tie rod jamb nuts loose for later when we need to adjust the ski stance ect....

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:05 PM.


#513 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:11 PM

SHOCKS:

 

I SOLD the NEW shocks that came in my RAS2 kit, this was the main reason I could justify buying this kit, because I have an awesome dealer I came within dollars of paying for the entire kit with shock sale.   So I simply reinstalled my shocks.

 

I labelled my shocks R or L before removal, not sure if that matters but just thought it might be good to get them back to their orig location.

 

New nylock nuts again from kit...

 

Orig bolts, and upper bolt has a washer.....while lower black bolt does not.

 

 

NEW SHOCKS FROM KIT:

If you are using the new shocks, you can install the NEW springs onto the new shocks easily by hand.  Just lower the threaded adjusting collar to lowest it can go. hold the bottom spring seat/collar from kit in one hand.  Now install the new spring with "tang" end down, and lay tang into the groove on the threaded adjusting collar.  Put shock on work bench vertical with adjuster end downward...Now press down on spring while inserting seat/collar around shock shaft at same time and seat spring into seat/collar.  Now install the little red "clicker" knob, and small screw that holds knob on from kit.

 

Sorry I did not get pics of this....I did this awhile back, to get the new shocks and springs ready for new owner.

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 08:36 PM.


#514 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:15 PM

Shock Bolt heads toward front of sled....nuts rearward. Once the shocks are bolted on and everything is torqued down, you can install ski's and lower sled back onto ground...

 

Once sled is lowered, you can work on ski stance/parallelism.  

 

I always like to use a straight edge against track, and measure off this to your ski center,at front and rear of ski.  This will get your ski parallel with track....do this while handlebars are perfectly straight.   Now adjust the other ski off the first ski, and do your CtC.... and then add in a slight toe out.

 

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 08:38 PM.


#515 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:32 PM

Ras2 all done....

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:39 PM.


#516 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:36 PM

New View with post forward....Feels way better!

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#517 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:37 PM

Post forward closeup....

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#518 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:52 PM

Also Installed my new Yamaha DUPONT sliders today....

 

Shorty length, cut down to  39.25"

 

Bevel rear on grinder.

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 01 December 2014 - 07:56 PM.


#519 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:59 PM

Use a proper #3 philips socket, these had to be the easiest sliders ive ever changed....slide right out thru window with a little silicone spray on track window.....Slide new ones back in, only a few minutes to do with track loosened off and Chris's great side stand post.

 

 

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#520 dave583

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:00 PM

Also picked up some of the Dupont VESPEL sliders(BY YAMAHA) that are now made for BRP profile. Very cool design up close, the inserts have holes to hold snow which helps to cool the inserts.

Dealer again gave me a good price, still pricy though at my cost. But if it increases MPG, and top speed, and never needs changing, then they pay for themselves.

............

I am going to get those next year...

#521 rockerdan

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:02 PM

Only thing sucks IMO....is there is no line on the side of these, I like how BRP slides have that line "wear indicator"

 

But if they last like they should, it wont matter....

 

20mm total height on oustide, and 10mm to wear point, so at least i know.

 

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 December 2014 - 09:58 PM.


#522 DooDown87

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:38 PM

Looking great as always!  Really love your build posts, great to have you on this site!!!


"Sometimes a big step back is the biggest step forward"

 

 


#523 im4snow

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 08:44 PM

Fantastic write up as usual. I'm contemplating the RAS kit but it would depend on being able to sell the original shocks etc......wonder if there's much of a market for the original parts?

#524 Rich Jelinek

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 09:51 PM

Question for you rockerdan.......................I'm putting oil lite bushings in my new 2015 Renegade X 1200, and when I took everything apart there is a rubber o-ring on the bolt for the REAR UPPER a-arm bolt. It's on the bolt threads right about where the washer is that goes between the rear side of the a-arm and the body. Did your sled have these?

 

Not sure what the purpose is other than maybe when they assembled the sled, the o-ring on the end of the bolt was to keep all the spacer/washer parts from falling of during assembly ?  or ?

 

Just wondering how critical it is to put it back in there, and curious about why it's there.

 

Also, thanks for all the details & pics, -  you should write instruction manuals !

 

BTW..............you didn't want to put the Grip n Rip brace kit on it while you had it all apart ?


RICH%20BLUE%20BFR%2009-04-16_MG_0015_zps

 

 


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#525 rockerdan

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 04:55 PM

Fantastic write up as usual. I'm contemplating the RAS kit but it would depend on being able to sell the original shocks etc......wonder if there's much of a market for the original parts?

 

This is exactly how I felt.....My dealer ordered like 30+ kits last spring and I told him id like one, he was fine without me committing.  So when the kit came in, he was selling them fast at great price, even sold a few to members here who I hooked up with my dealer. 

 

I told him to give me a few weeks more, to test the waters on selling shocks.  Once i slapped them on ebay, they went right away.  The shocks from BRP are not cheap, so selling brand new X shocks on ebay was fast.   But it was nice not having to commit until i knew I had shocks pre-sold.


Edited by rockerdan, 02 December 2014 - 04:55 PM.





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