40 replies to this topic

[mschmidt33]

2011 MXZ 600 Carb. First sled. Only got a couple weekends of riding last year. My biggest complaint was its ability to stop while trail riding or on the lake. The 1" ripsaw caught well enough for me, it was stopping that was the issue. I also park it in my garage and do my share of riding around the house crossing driveways and such. I could care less about scratching up my driveway but is this going to cause serious manuverability issues with little snow on pavement? Don't want to tear up the sub division either. I assume I should be considering studs or a 1.75" ripsaw. Which one would suit me better in your opinion.


I found a used track off an 09' Adrenaline with 126 Woody's studs. It is 120 x 15 x 1. Will this fit? It is only $150 bucks, seems like a deal.

Mike

[mschmidt33]

I also assume after a track upgrade, I should move my 4" carbides to the outside and buy some 6" woody's for down the middle.

[XXROBBOBXX]

go with the 1.352 cobra and put 1.450 inch studs in it.

http://www.tracksusa.com/cobra.html

[gmiller]

2011 MXZ 600 Carb. First sled. Only got a couple weekends of riding last year. My biggest complaint was its ability to stop while trail riding or on the lake. The 1" ripsaw caught well enough for me, it was stopping that was the issue. I also park it in my garage and do my share of riding around the house crossing driveways and such. I could care less about scratching up my driveway but is this going to cause serious manuverability issues with little snow on pavement? Don't want to tear up the sub division either. I assume I should be considering studs or a 1.75" ripsaw. Which one would suit me better in your opinion.


I found a used track off an 09' Adrenaline with 126 Woody's studs. It is 120 x 15 x 1. Will this fit? It is only $150 bucks, seems like a deal.

Mike

If you ride the lakes you will need studs as the 1.75 ripsaw still won't stop well on ice. How much off trail riding you do will determine how big of a lug you need.

[BARK-A-LOUNGER]

If stopping on hard pack or icy conditions is your issue then by all means stud away!

Carbides and moving your current ones to the outside and going with new more aggressive to the center is the correct way of thinking. Lots of opinions on what brand to use though so I ain't going to open that can or worms nor what oil to use.......lol

[DBer]

recheck that used track. Adrenalines are 16 x 137"

I do recommend studding on the trail. I tried without for a season and ended up going back to the studs.

[XXROBBOBXX]

recheck that used track. Adrenalines are 16 x 137"

????

[Stever]

First sled. Reasonably new sled, I'm assuming not a lot of miles. You don't need to change the track as well. Try some studs! 90 ish studs, the right length. Don't forget the tunnel protector. Studs should not destroy your concrete or you asphalt driveway. It will if you are spinning your track though. It will be the carbides on your skis that do the damage.

[NHRoadking]

First sled. Reasonably new sled, I'm assuming not a lot of miles. You don't need to change the track as well. Try some studs! 90 ish studs, the right length. Don't forget the tunnel protector. Studs should not destroy your concrete or you asphalt driveway. It will if you are spinning your track though. It will be the carbides on your skis that do the damage.

In my experience studs do damage pavement. Did not hurt the concrete in my garage but sure ripped up the paved driveway.

[djm]

In my experience studs do damage pavement. Did not hurt the concrete in my garage but sure ripped up the paved driveway.

And they will eventually get your garage floor if you ride it in and out... Going to be one time when it doesn't move.. ski carbide hung up on something.. and you push the trottle a little harder and you spin the track and the studs dig into the concrete.. If it didn't happen yesterday and doesn't happen tomorrow it will happen the day after... just the way it works.

You try and do the right thing... to keep from spinning them.. but... it happens and you have one of those Aw "edit for bad language" moments...

But sounds like studs are what he should have. And 96 of them using double backers are the way to go.

[easydoo'in it]

recheck that used track. RENEGADES are 16 x 137"

I do recommend studding on the trail. I tried without for a season and ended up going back to the studs.

Fixed it.

[mschmidt33]

So skip buying the track with studs for $150? What studs should I buy? My manual says to only use the Skidoo ones and that it is pre-marked? I assume I can install them myself. Do I need to remove the track to do so?

Mike

[Hoser Sledhead]

You can go on the Woody's or Stud Boy web sites and study. I've always used aftermarket studs without issues. You do not have to remove the track, just suspend the rear bumper to get the track off the floor. The OEM track should be marked with smooth square areas. ONLY drill here. These areas do not have cords running through them and are reinforced to hold studs.

The manufacturers websites will have recommended lengths based on lug height, types, quantities and patterns. Do your research and you can't go wrong. Don't cheap out on this. While studs are sold as a perfomance enhancer, I believe that their real value is as a safety feature. the braking and steering benefits are immesurable.

[ZXMODV]

So skip buying the track with studs for $150? What studs should I buy? My manual says to only use the Skidoo ones and that it is pre-marked? I assume I can install them myself. Do I need to remove the track to do so?

Mike

Good advice from all these guys.I'd like to add a few things. Like hoser said, go to stud boy and woodys sites. Lots of good info. They usually recommend more studs that you need,though.I think brp marks 96 on your track.Or whatever it is for a 120.That would be good for braking and not spinning out in icy corners. The more studs you put in it,the more it will tend to push in the corners.To have enough carbide to keep the balance,you'll find that you have to change the suspension settings more for changing conditions.There is other issues that come with too much studding and carbide.Also,double plates give the stud more rigidity and reduce the likelihood of tearing out. I've only had singles tearout.I have the double backer studs sticking out almost 1/2 inch, which is not recommended for trail riding,but it hooks up good with fewer studs.Use 5/16" studs as the're slightly thicker than the 7mm ones.A bit stronger.And the stainless ones look nice, but don't seem to be as strong as the steel ones.You can use a smaller head with the double plates and the track will roll easier, but I think you have a single ply track, so you have to use the stud for that one, which has a bigger head and no shoulder.That track has good lateral grip for fast aggressive trail riding,so like the others said,move your stock carbides to the outside and put some 6" in the centre.With the right suspension settings that combo should give you good front bite and let you use the throttle to control the rearend coming out of corners on hardpack.And yes,like djm said,your track is going to spin when the carbides get hung up.Look into a pair of those boots you put on the ski.I made up a set out of some old 8" ski skins and they work ok.But I need a new driveway so I only use them when there is no snow and I'm putting them on the trailer.Right now I have studboys in one machine and some older warthogs in one in double backers,and they seem quite durable.I had some stainless shoguns but half the carbide tips came out of them.Spend the money and get good ones.When you install them loosen your track first. you will have to readjust it because it makes the track tighter.Hope it works out for you.Stay out of the trees.

[DBer]

WHAT???? What are you smoking? Did you hit your head on something to think this? MXZ Adrenalines are 120, and what you're thinking of is RENEGADE ADRENALINE.

My bad!!!! Thanks for subtly pointing it out Ronald.