26 replies to this topic

[Dynamo^Joe]

Have you got used to your sled? Would you like a little bit more here and there?
Enhanced clutching for mountain sled owners with support.
info@mxzx-revzone.com
807.346.9701

Who built it; mountain riders that ride in the steepest and deepest snow.
Where does it work; from sea level to the highest Colorado elevations.
Who is accountable for it; why, me! If it didn't add value, I wouldn't sell it.

Is there support after the sale?
Yes and before the sale too so you can learn to respond to something predictable that can happen.

Can I talk to you personally if I have a problem?
Yes, I can help you respond to something that is not so predictable.

Can I do this by myself?
Yes, if you have been interested in getting your hands dirty, then do it.

What's it look like?
Something like this

What parts are in it?
Have a look at your year...

Are there any reviews?
Yes, reviews are easy to find.

Talk is cheap, show me where it's working
Yes, plenty of videos to show.
Videos 2

Strike when the iron is hot, and the iron is the hottest when you have the time to work on something. With the spring and summer upon us, you can steal a few moments of your day to the sled while it's warm.
Make time for getting to know your tools and clutch parts; the things that when working properly will give you pleasure.

Take action and you'll have no worries next season. The first ride is to dial the flyweight for yourself.

The guys who you watch and say "look at him go" are those who take action and participate with their sled, they have improved their skills to know and tune the sled, tweaking it to get it just right for them.

Considering a cylinder head or engine mod of some kind? Been thinking about changing your gearing or track? Then consider this clutch kit that will enhance those mods too.

How can I order?
Looky here, an order form.

Prices at this time are 10% off.
Have a nice summer.

[Dynamo^Joe]

back from bass fishing.
bump*

[Blizzard800]

Joe...
I am ordering a 2013 Summit Sport XP with the 800r PTek. This is not the XM with ETEC. I currently have your kit in my 07' summit and would like to get a kit for the 13. What set-up would I use for dual elevation? Helix, Springs, Pin weight(I am keeping my Dalton pin kit)???

Thanks!

tackerman1@wi.rr.com

[Dynamo^Joe]

Before you take delivery of the sled, make sure that you demand that the 441 ramps are going to be installed in the primary and not the 413's. Sport xp should have the 21:49 gearing still and then it will be a matter of changing the pinweight for elevation change.

Here are the 4 parts
1) 160/350 purple/pink
2) 15grams(ish) for high elevation / 20.5 grams for low elevation
3) use the stock purple xp secondary spring (2013 has the 062 (231/300))
4) Helix
...hammer down.

Whatever you need, just get a hold of me.
Thanky

[Xkimo]

Dynamo Joe I've got a 2012 summit x that is sea level calibrated, im riding from 0 to 4500 feet and with my clickers on setting 3 i could only get 7300-7400 rpms at 4500 feet. I would like to get the rpms up to 7900 - 8000 rpms with out adjusting my clickers to 6! Either i need a stronger spring on my primary or i need some ligther weights on the primary. What would you suggest? I have a yellow/green spring, 413 ramps and solid 18.8 gram weights on my primary. And the secondary spring is blue and the helix is 40*!

Thanks

Erni

[RSXP600]

Do you have a kit for a 2011 summit 600 carb running a 0-2000?

[powpowpow]

Hey DJ! I own a 2010 Summit 800R 146, I live in Quebec,Canada so 0-3000!

[Dynamo^Joe]

@Xkimo
You indicate a wide range of use (0~4500). You are going to have to calibrate for the elevation range that you mostly ride in and I would say that would be 80% of your riding.
Example - if you run from 1500~3500 all the time, Then I would calibrate the primary clutch to run in the clicker you want in that range for your 80% of time. Then when going higher than 3500, you can clicker up 1. When going below 1500 then can clicker down 1.

If you have a yellow/green 100/260 then I would take it that you are in Euro/Scandinavia as the blue/purple 130/320 is for the N.Am models.

I would also have an adjustable set of pinweights that range higher than the 18.8g solid pin.

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@RSXP60
I'll get back atcha, I'll look and see what I got.

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@powpowpow
Kindly find out what ramps you have installed in the primary clutch. You can either have 441 or 413. I have a kit for both, however would need to know which ramps are installed right now.

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Thanky

[Xkimo]

DJ i ride about 75 - 90% in the mountains at 2500 - 4500 feet. What kind of calibration can you offer me for that elevation?

Thanks

[Dynamo^Joe]

DJ i ride about 75 - 90% in the mountains at 2500 - 4500 feet. What kind of calibration can you offer me for that elevation?

Thanks

OH...I took it by the wording of your original post that you wanted to tailor your original stock clutching a bit better for yourself.

Based on what Xkimo writes
1) my clickers on setting 3, i could only get 7300-7400 rpms at 4500 feet and
2) like to get the rpms up to 7900 - 8000 rpms with out adjusting my clickers to 6!

yellow/green 100/260
18.8g solid pin

Problem; the only details you have at this point for adjust-ability is the clicker position. The 18.8g solid pin should be exchanged for an adjustable one that at least can provide a maximum amount of flyweight-and less, than you currently use.
The dalton 14.5g~20.5g would be the next best flyweight pin to calibrate with.

If you are going to work 80% of your riding in the range of 2500~4500 then calibrate at the maximum elevation you use (4500) then lower.

@ 4500 feet, full throttle 7300~7400 rpms with 18.8gram.
flyweight determines rpms.
If need less rpms, then add flyweight.
If need more rpms, then reduce flyweight.
0.5gram = approximate 100 rpms at full throttle
1.0gram = approximate 200 rpms at full throttle

7900 needed - 7300 actual = 600 rpms.
If need more rpms, then reduce flyweight.
0.5gram = approximate 100 rpms at full throttle
1.0gram = approximate 200 rpms at full throttle

18.8 gram - 3 gram = 15.8 gram. Therefore from your current calibration with 18.8g in clicker 3, you can reduce the flyweight and go to 15.8 gram and that should get you much closer to the target full throttle rpm at 4500 feet.

...based on the evidence you gather(rpms/clicker position/flyweight grams/sled character & feel) while at full throttle, at that highest elevation you range out at; from that point on, it would be a matter of either changing the pinweight a little bit more or taking the primary spring final force and lowering it or raising it. (trimming the calibration)

I have pin kits on sale for $35
but you would have waaAAaay more fun with my clutch kit. he he he.

If you were to get my clutch kit, you will be performing the same initial procedure. I would be recommending that you set the pinweight with the lens of calibration pointed towards 4500', panning backward.

In this particular case...In this particular case...i stress, In this particular case; the reason we work at highest elevation and work backwards is due to your personal requirements and nobody else'. Another element is the fact that the engine power reduces as elevation increases. Then calibrate for the highest elevation to deliver you the most usable range of elevation without having to change clickers.

Here is an example of a different particular case. A sledder runs from 7500 to 13000 in colorado. The most usable range he rides in is 9000~11000 feet. Following the same procedure you would do, that rider would calibrate the pinweight and primary spring final force required (for this example) to run 80% from 9k~11k in clicker 4.
*When he goes higher than 11k, now has the availability to go to 5 to recalibrate for the engine power loss at higher than 11k.
*When going below 9k, the engine power increases as elevation lowers and if over revving, then can go to clicker 3 to get rpms back to rated.

[Dynamo^Joe]

DJ i ride about 75 - 90% in the mountains at 2500 - 4500 feet. What kind of calibration can you offer me for that elevation?

Thanks

160/380 primary spring
adjustable pin kit
xp 231/300 secondary spring
NC-D2 helix
4 parts regular $310 for $275

Since I already have Alaska/Euro/Scand dialed in that seem to run in the elevations that you mention (push off the dock) for start at 4500 feet and lower, then 16.9 grams on clicker 3 for 7800~7900 rpms you should be good to go from there.
The flyweight mentioned is for anywhere in the 180lb~230lb range operator to start with.

Thanks
Joey

[Xkimo]

Well thats what im doing now! But for some reason i dont like to run my clickers at 6 at 4500 feet! I'd rather have the clickers on 3 in case im going to higher elevation! What is there in your clutch kit and what is the cost? And by the way my gearing is 21/49.

[Dynamo^Joe]

Well thats what im doing now! But for some reason i dont like to run my clickers at 6 at 4500 feet! I'd rather have the clickers on 3 in case im going to higher elevation! What is there in your clutch kit and what is the cost? And by the way my gearing is 21/49.

Hi.
http://www.dootalk.c...dpost&p=3841188

[pigsleds]

Hi.
http://www.dootalk.c...dpost&p=3841188

funny!

[pigsleds]

Hi Joey,

13 800R ptek - 154" - 1500' to 3500' at home and also go to 6000' to 10,000'. I know you said to make sure to get the 413 ramps, is this an option, I'll call the dealer tomorrow. Also I'm 330 lbs. w/gear, so if you would be so kind to hook a brother up.

Thanks,
Darin