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03 MXZ MOD to 154"


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#106 Kealo

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:59 PM

1336220597[/url]' post='3847006']
That should work fine. I've gotten good at using an air chisel with solid rivets but it's very touchy with the trigger. The rivet ones are much more controllable at low speeds. What are you using for rivets??? Hardened aluminum? The good aluminum rivets buck like a total beach....I accidentally got shipped standard alum and they were way too easy. Can aneal the rivets to temporarily make them softer for bucking.


I think they are just regular aluminum rivets?. I will have to see what the pack says. If you aneall the rivets will it not weaken them?



#107 Kealo

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:24 PM

Thought I would start keeping track of the costs
$350 154 x 16 x 2 used track
$200 summit xrs arms shipped used
$264 rev renagade heat exchanger shipped used
$98 longer chain case, chain and gears mxz used shipped
$80 summit chain and gears 21 top and 45 bottom used shipped
$135 8T drivers new from brp
$49.50 left and right foot rest reinforcements to lower drive shaft
$70 oil tank and fitting for oil injection delete
$450 09 x 154 skid. Includes
$200 sipping.
$97 seat fabric shipped
$56 aluminum tubing for running boards
$1849.5 total so far.


#108 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 08:13 PM

I think they are just regular aluminum rivets?. I will have to see what the pack says. If you aneall the rivets will it not weaken them?


The solid rivet you want to be using is the MS20470AD, these rivets are what mfg's. use for general aircraft strucuture. They are very strong and easy to buck. The diameter is in 1/32nd's and the length is in 1/16th's, example MS20470AD3-5 is 3/32nd's diameter and 5/16th's long. The trick as previously mentioned is to use a good rivet gun and a heavy bucking bar. Take your time, practice up on some scrap (rivets are dirt cheap) to keep the smileys away. Google and read up.

#109 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:11 PM

Installed the track for the first time
Attached File  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336345882.363035.jpg   158.32KB   14 downloads


#110 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:14 PM

Assembled the skid and bolted into stock front location. As you can see it is too close to the drive sprocket
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#111 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:15 PM

Moved the bolt location.
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#112 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:38 PM

Locating the skid in the tunnel.

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#113 RacerX408

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:16 PM

Locating the skid in the tunnel.

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Looks like fun! As stated before, you can never have enough track! Lol

I finished this on Saturday. 1980 yamaha ss 440 144x1.25 play around sled!

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#114 squidward

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:22 PM

I think they are just regular aluminum rivets?. I will have to see what the pack says. If you aneall the rivets will it not weaken them?


No. It'll naturally re-harden if just left to sit or will work harden during bucking. I use the torch soot method....melted a few rivets before I went to a propane torch for actual heating. They buck soooo much easier then. Good read on annealing here: http://www.tinmantec...s_continued.php


The solid rivet you want to be using is the MS20470AD, these rivets are what mfg's. use for general aircraft strucuture. They are very strong and easy to buck. The diameter is in 1/32nd's and the length is in 1/16th's, example MS20470AD3-5 is 3/32nd's diameter and 5/16th's long. The trick as previously mentioned is to use a good rivet gun and a heavy bucking bar. Take your time, practice up on some scrap (rivets are dirt cheap) to keep the smileys away. Google and read up.


I want to say I use AN470AD-6-7 rivets. Have a few different lengths for different applications. I run mine with the stick through at 1.5 times the rivet diameter. I also use a 3 pound maul as a bucking bar. It's surface is flat and works really pretty darn well. I get mine from aircraftspruce.com at what seems to be a decent price.

Current Frankensled....2011 RS + 2008 summit + Holz Alpha X + RKT 800HO
766a4152-6686-478e-96fc-1b147dfd393f.jpg
Parting out...Clicky ~~~>  2007 Summit X and 2011 600 RS


#115 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:24 PM

1336357331[/url]' post='3847590']
No. It'll naturally re-harden if just left to sit or will work harden during bucking. I use the torch soot method....melted a few rivets before I went to a propane torch for actual heating. They buck soooo much easier then. Good read on annealing here: http://www.tinmantec...s_continued.php




I want to say I use AN470AD-6-7 rivets. Have a few different lengths for different applications. I run mine with the stick through at 1.5 times the rivet diameter. I also use a 3 pound maul as a bucking bar. It's surface is flat and works really pretty darn well. I get mine from aircraftspruce.com at what seems to be a decent price.



What psi do you run?


#116 Kealo

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:26 PM

1336356988[/url]' post='3847588']
Looks like fun! As stated before, you can never have enough track! Lol

I finished this on Saturday. 1980 yamaha ss 440 144x1.25 play around sled!


That thing is sweet. Nice and clean.


#117 Bad

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:46 PM

That thing is sweet. Nice and clean.

X2 very nice.

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They Say getting stuck is half the fun. Which means all my friend are having just as much fun pulling me out of the rubarb all the time.


#118 squidward

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:49 PM

What psi do you run?


don't remember. mines a cheap Chicago pneumatic or somethimg like that. I messed with the regulator so it wasn't so wild but still had enough to buck. trial and error. take a piece of scrap, drill a bunch of holes, and practice. head should not be deformed and backside should end up even round with fairly square edges. if you go too much it mushes pretty flat and starts to crack at the edges.

Current Frankensled....2011 RS + 2008 summit + Holz Alpha X + RKT 800HO
766a4152-6686-478e-96fc-1b147dfd393f.jpg
Parting out...Clicky ~~~>  2007 Summit X and 2011 600 RS


#119 Kealo

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 05:12 PM

Started to cut the aluminum for the sides
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#120 New Too Doo

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 06:12 PM

Getting there...looking good so far.

Love the sled stand by the way...ha ha




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