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'97 Mach 1 700 - Long Track build


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#16 maluchm

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 04:50 AM

I recently sold a CK3 chassis tha had a 153" x 2" that used 8 tooth drivers and I think the F chassis has a bit more room up at the bulkhead then the CK3.

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#17 the toecutter

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:02 AM

that would be the easy way out for ya.... 8 tooth extrovert drivers and a 2inch paddle !

hey Mike , you dont have any rail extensions for a sc-10 /3 , 121 o 136...
? do ya ?

#18 maluchm

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 07:34 AM

Sorry Bill but I wish I did. I do have a 136 SC III though.

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#19 Archibald

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:48 PM

Thanks Toecutter! I think I'll cheat and skip the drop and roll and do the 8 tooth drivers and 2" lug. I think I am temping fate to go with a 2.3" lug. It appears from http://www.dootalk.c...pic=465590&st=0 that I can run a 16" wide track with a little grinding here and there.

maluchm: your ck3 was the inspiration for this project. Also sledsrockcolorado has a cool F-Chassis build.

#20 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 11:16 AM

Thanks Toecutter! I think I'll cheat and skip the drop and roll and do the 8 tooth drivers and 2" lug. I think I am temping fate to go with a 2.3" lug. It appears from http://www.dootalk.c...pic=465590&st=0 that I can run a 16" wide track with a little grinding here and there.

maluchm: your ck3 was the inspiration for this project. Also sledsrockcolorado has a cool F-Chassis build.



Okay, the F and S chassis is basically the same except for plastics. The famous old D&R for these chassis's were a baby D&R, something like 5/8 x 3/8. Not much gained for the work involved, that is why I went with a stretched chain case. The 16 wide track is a great mod, and does not take much work to make it fit without issues. 2.0 lug is as big as you can go with 8 tooth 2.52 drivers. make sure to remove that deflector at the front of the tunnel for snow evacuation. Also, if you need custom rail extensions made up get ahold of a guy named Wildchild on here or maybe it was snowest (I have his card at home if you need more info), he can make them any custom length as well add offset for big wheels. If you end up moving the drive shaft, be sure to figure in the movement of the rear skid back for proper rail extension length.

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#21 Archibald

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 12:44 AM

Yeah, I'm pretty well convinced of the 2" lug now with the 8 tooth drivers (2.52). Also will try the 16" width, and grind down the rivet's and bolts that are in the way. I will stay away from the drop and roll for now.

I assume I can leave the skid's front bolt in the same place, and simply move the rear bracket back to the appropriate center to center distance. I've seen a few threads on others who have done the same and that doesn't look tricky at all. I would really like to find a 151" SC10-iii, and I will have to find out the center to center distance for that.

maluchm has me thinking of a 159" length track now, I guess I'll need rail extension for that as it's too much for simple bigger wheels? Or I could set the skid back too? Is one preferable to the other?


I'm about to pull the trigger on new Pilot DS ski's for C$284.99, and about $300 worth of PowerMadd 6" riser/handguard combo with extended breakline/throttle cable.

#22 the toecutter

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 07:15 AM

Okay, the F and S chassis is basically the same except for plastics. The famous old D&R for these chassis's were a baby D&R, something like 5/8 x 3/8. Not much gained for the work involved, that is why I went with a stretched chain case. The 16 wide track is a great mod, and does not take much work to make it fit without issues. 2.0 lug is as big as you can go with 8 tooth 2.52 drivers. make sure to remove that deflector at the front of the tunnel for snow evacuation. Also, if you need custom rail extensions made up get ahold of a guy named Wildchild on here or maybe it was snowest (I have his card at home if you need more info), he can make them any custom length as well add offset for big wheels. If you end up moving the drive shaft, be sure to figure in the movement of the rear skid back for proper rail extension length.


HEY Sledsrockcolorado !
I Have always loved your sled !! can you post a pic of the front!!?? :checkerd

#23 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:30 PM

HEY Sledsrockcolorado !
I Have always loved your sled !! can you post a pic of the front!!?? :checkerd


I am struggling to find all my pictures....I believe they are on my external back-up hard drive. I did find this one though....

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#24 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:33 PM

No parking lot poser here...

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#25 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:40 PM

Not trying to hijack...just making a point that if done correctly they can perform pretty well in the deep at 10K ft. Here is your front view....also, one of M8 stuck 1/3 way to top. That track over the top is from my 95 summit.

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#26 Archibald

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:04 AM

Not a hyjack at all. Loving the pics. By the way, found one more of yours:

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#27 Archibald

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 01:10 AM

I just got to thinking that i should get some photo's up of my sled. I will do that when I get home next week.

#28 sledsrockcolorado

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 09:22 AM

Not a hyjack at all. Loving the pics. By the way, found one more of yours:


Nice, thank you! Yes, you need to get your pics posted up. Can't wait to see how yours turns out.

#29 Archibald

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:11 PM

Quick question:

Will triple pipes/silencers (dynoport, etc.) from a CK3 chassis fit in my F-2000? I am thinking no...?

#30 maluchm

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 05:25 AM

Quick question:

Will triple pipes/silencers (dynoport, etc.) from a CK3 chassis fit in my F-2000? I am thinking no...?

No, not without cutting and welding at least

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