25 replies to this topic

[Schatn]

Here are pictures from my first ever Ski-Doo trip. We went in Glerárdalur, via Hlíðarfjall. There isn't much snow left, but the weather was great and some nice steep hills to climb.

Never ever having driven a Ski-Doo before, I must admit I didn't like the handling for the first 30 minutes or so. It was so much different from my Firecat. Then suddenly I started to love it

I still have to set it up for my taste, but I absolutely love this machine. It has plenty of power, nice throttle response and feels great to ride The track on it was not perfect for the conditions in May, but that just made it a little more challenging

[da800r]

nice pictures like to see the switch, from a cat to a doo, love my 08

[mx100]

Good thread. Thanks for the info.

[Schatn]

It's currently snowing like crazy here in Iceland (something that does not happen often in May, believe it or not) so I'm looking forward to riding my Ski-Doo again hopefully this thursday.

When I was cleaning it the other day I noticed a crack (see picture). Could anybody tell me if I should be concerned about this and how I might be able to fix it?

Also, could somebody tell me what kind of silencer my sled has, by using google it looks like SKINZ ULTRA-Q CERAMIC SILENCER, but I'm not sure

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[sidehiller_5]

i have the exact same crack !! happened when i ripped my front a arm off on a rock. i still have it. i just filled the crack with epoxy, hope it holds. one thing to check is to see there is still a torx bit still threaded into the non cracked part just below the top a arm. mine was gone when i found the break. when i put it back in it didnt flex as much.

[Champagne Powder]

Common for the E module to crack there. I welded mine and cracked again from last impact. Leave it and let it rip! Looks like a older slp can.

[Never Summer]

Common for the E module to crack there. I welded mine and cracked again from last impact. Leave it and let it rip! Looks like a older slp can.

Don't leave it, weld it or grind a flat and bolt some stock on it or change module. There is an engine mount near that crack. Under power it flexes a lot. You'll start running hot hot clutches and blow belts. I blamed my clutching for a long time until I found the crack. Switched module, gained 3-400 rpm.

[Schatn]

Don't leave it, weld it or grind a flat and bolt some stock on it or change module. There is an engine mount near that crack. Under power it flexes a lot. You'll start running hot hot clutches and blow belts. I blamed my clutching for a long time until I found the crack. Switched module, gained 3-400 rpm.

Excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean by switching modules? How and where did you get one? Why did that make you gain so many RPM's ?

[Champagne Powder]

disagree ... that spot is holding onto the plastic!! anyways if you had belt problems its not from that crack.

Don't leave it, weld it or grind a flat and bolt some stock on it or change module. There is an engine mount near that crack. Under power it flexes a lot. You'll start running hot hot clutches and blow belts. I blamed my clutching for a long time until I found the crack. Switched module, gained 3-400 rpm.

[Tonka8ty]

I have a 2011 that has just had updated pistons 1370 mIles I will sell for 8500 it is a 163 x all black

[Never Summer]

Excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean by switching modules? How and where did you get one? Why did that make you gain so many RPM's ?

E-module and S-module

Your E-module is cracked. It supports the engine. There's a reason it cracked there, a lot of the load is transferring through those members. When cracked, things are flexing all over the place. Caused a lot of belt misalignment for me when my E-module cracked.

E-module a bit of a pain to replace. Make sure you have the right tools to drill/grind out rivets...

P.S. to be fair, my E-module was cracked in the identical spot on the other side