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1995 670 Recoil... Centre Weld is broken...


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#1 Fastrack

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 09:59 AM

Hi,

I noticed when cleaning up my sled after the "winter" that the weld in the centre of the housing is completely busted. It rotates slightly when the rope is pulled.

I've read a ton of topics about the EZ Start mod etc, Mach D was selling these at one point... Are any parts usable from the original recoil if I go to a larger diameter one?

Should I dealer order a recoil ? What parts do I need for larger diameter (ie what model year parts fiche should I be looking at) Or try ebay, kijiji etc.. ?

Attached File  IMG_4535_800x600.jpg   69.78KB   9 downloads
Attached File  IMG_4534_800x600.jpg   47.83KB   6 downloads

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#2 chris447

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 10:08 AM

i have one that looks just like that off a 02 mach z i can sell you

#3 Fastrack

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 10:32 AM

i have one that looks just like that off a 02 mach z i can sell you


Is the '02 larger diameter? Will it bolt up.. ?

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#4 chris447

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 10:36 AM

im not sure i know it has more holes for the bolts but i can take a few measurements if you want just pm me

#5 v10004stroke

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 11:26 AM

It doesn't look like it would be difficult to reweld.

#6 SuperJfunk

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 11:45 AM

It doesn't look like it would be difficult to reweld.


x2 Had the exact same thing happen to my 97 583, I cleaned it up and re-welded it in 04, buddy owns the sled now with no problems.

#7 v10004stroke

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 04:25 PM

With a grinder a mig welder you could reweld that. You wouldn't even have to remove it from the motor.

#8 Fastrack

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 09:37 PM

I'm going to attempt to weld it. I was planning to remove it anyway as the rope doesn't return fully sometimes so it probably needs some lube.

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#9 Valonmxz

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 05:22 PM

I'm going to attempt to weld it. I was planning to remove it anyway as the rope doesn't return fully sometimes so it probably needs some lube.

Ben



Hey Ben
weld it up on the outside only
Then put a 3/4" washer over the center and weld that on the id and od of the washer
You may have to center the shaft again
I used a lathe to just chuck the shaft and the turned manually
pry where you have to to straighten it out
I did this to my recoil a few years ago, works mint
I put a new pawl kit in it this year OEM parts

Don't use too much lube, it will give you trouble when its cold

good luck

Contact Info:

Greasable Suspension Parts, Control Arms to Swing Arms, Link Rod Repair Kits and Bushings
Got A Problem- We Got A Fix http://mainwaysolutions.ca PM me with year and model   :revinmotion: Ride em like you stole em

  
 

 

#10 Fastrack

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 07:44 PM

Hey Ben
weld it up on the outside only
Then put a 3/4" washer over the center and weld that on the id and od of the washer
You may have to center the shaft again
I used a lathe to just chuck the shaft and the turned manually
pry where you have to to straighten it out
I did this to my recoil a few years ago, works mint
I put a new pawl kit in it this year OEM parts

Don't use too much lube, it will give you trouble when its cold

good luck


I'm assuming the washer is to add strength? As for the grease would snowmobile synthetic grease or white lithium grease be better? I don't think I'll have any issues with it being in the centre as right now the weld is just cracked.

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#11 Valonmxz

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:37 AM

I'm assuming the washer is to add strength? As for the grease would snowmobile synthetic grease or white lithium grease be better? I don't think I'll have any issues with it being in the centre as right now the weld is just cracked.

Ben

I didn't mean centered as being in the middle but as perpendicular
what might happen is the rope sheave will rub on one side

you got me now?

Contact Info:

Greasable Suspension Parts, Control Arms to Swing Arms, Link Rod Repair Kits and Bushings
Got A Problem- We Got A Fix http://mainwaysolutions.ca PM me with year and model   :revinmotion: Ride em like you stole em

  
 

 

#12 Fastrack

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 07:56 AM

I didn't mean centered as being in the middle but as perpendicular
what might happen is the rope sheave will rub on one side

you got me now?


Ah ok.. got it!

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#13 SuperJfunk

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 02:05 PM

I'm assuming the washer is to add strength? As for the grease would snowmobile synthetic grease or white lithium grease be better? I don't think I'll have any issues with it being in the centre as right now the weld is just cracked.

Ben


No grease, it'll eventually gum up when it's cold. I use a spray graphite dry lube and have had good results. x2 on the welding from the outside only. Mine was easy to center also, there was only one way it would align, I chamfered the edges of the hole a little to get a good root weld.

#14 Fastrack

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 05:43 PM

So I finally got the recoil pulled off.. So simpppppppple! Anyway.... I've taken it apart and the spring is lubed with some super sticky grease/belt dust so no wonder it's not working properly!
Attached File  IMG_4835_800x600.jpg   64.54KB   2 downloads

I want to remove the spring to clean it up and before I do the welding. Any tips on taking the spring out? And putting it back in? I was just going to pry it out but figured I should post first! The '97 or '98 shop manuals do not even mention spring removal.

Ben
2009 GTX Sport 500ss - soon to be 600RS/700
Mods: 500ss Matched Reg#s, NGK BR10ECMiX, Lit Start/RER Switches, Cyberdyne Gauges with Custom Pods
Bergstrom: Triple Points
C&T: A-Arm Protectors,Tools
GNR: Braces,Rear Axle Spacers
Racewerx: Tower brace
BRP: HPG Clickers, 6.5" Riser, Yellow Console/Hood/Seat/Idlers, Pilot 6.9's, Summit TRA spring
Monster Perf: Front/Rear Rebuild/revalve, Custom rear
RPM Comp: Full Body Skid Plate

1995 Summit 670 w/o HAC
Mods: Pilot 5.7's & SC10 136" w/ACM

#15 SuperJfunk

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 06:17 PM

So I finally got the recoil pulled off.. So simpppppppple! Anyway.... I've taken it apart and the spring is lubed with some super sticky grease/belt dust so no wonder it's not working properly!
Attached File  IMG_4835_800x600.jpg   64.54KB   2 downloads

I want to remove the spring to clean it up and before I do the welding. Any tips on taking the spring out? And putting it back in? I was just going to pry it out but figured I should post first! The '97 or '98 shop manuals do not even mention spring removal.

Ben


I never took the spring out of mine, but i'd imagine it's going to go everywhere once it's released. You've got a good before pic, i'd count the coils just to make sure, pop it out and give'er!




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