Consistent rpm's there too!
Lower rps's after clutching
#31
Posted 01 March 2012 - 07:21 PM
Consistent rpm's there too!
Renegade 800r
Suspension.....Zbroz X1's...... Monster Performance
Clutching..........414's...23gr...190/410......BHXPG....157/303....HTR in both
Track................XC PRO...137x15x1.75......144 Studs
Gearing............23/45
Intake................V-Force-3....Bondi Air Box.....Needles Shimmed .020
Exhaust............Ceramic Stock Pipe...Stock Muffler.....BMP's Exhaust Manifold ("Y" PIPE)
Ski's..................The Incisor ( self design)...... 8" Bergstrom Triple-points
RS Seat............8'' Risers.......RS Boot Grippers
Plug n Play........Grip n Rip Bracing ..........Ipone Oil
#32
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:22 PM
#33
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:36 PM
Yes if I was going to be going somewhere where I would be encountering heavy deep wet snow I would want to run less weight, and with more "clickers" to go up to on the big end. But, thats why I have more than just one spring, an adjustable pin kit from dalton, and keep notes as to what works with what for a quick change.
But, hey thats just me. Most want a set it an forget it like the ronco rotisserie. lol
Renegade 800r
Suspension.....Zbroz X1's...... Monster Performance
Clutching..........414's...23gr...190/410......BHXPG....157/303....HTR in both
Track................XC PRO...137x15x1.75......144 Studs
Gearing............23/45
Intake................V-Force-3....Bondi Air Box.....Needles Shimmed .020
Exhaust............Ceramic Stock Pipe...Stock Muffler.....BMP's Exhaust Manifold ("Y" PIPE)
Ski's..................The Incisor ( self design)...... 8" Bergstrom Triple-points
RS Seat............8'' Risers.......RS Boot Grippers
Plug n Play........Grip n Rip Bracing ..........Ipone Oil
#34
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:46 PM
I suffer from CRS!!!
Can't remember sheet!!!!
When it needs to be adjusted again.
I deffinatly acquired some great knowledge form this post & try to work it out Thank u!!
Bit it iorkes me to why after shearing 2+g pin weight nothing changed?????
Ideas??
Thanks!!
#35
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:12 PM
Run #5 then........I do.
Consistent rpm's there too!
For sure
Thanks for ur help !!
Ride safe !!
#36
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:31 PM
Yes it may be a patch not a fix but if you go up one or two and you see a rise in peak rpm then it can be read as just too much pin weight, and from everything I've read on sites it is a recommended number to run on #4 anyway. Personally I like to run on #2 if I can for radar runs and such or lower, and higher depending on what type of riding I'm doing. Short bursts from corner to corner I like it high as it's revy and recovers/reacts faster off an on throttle.
Yes if I was going to be going somewhere where I would be encountering heavy deep wet snow I would want to run less weight, and with more "clickers" to go up to on the big end. But, thats why I have more than just one spring, an adjustable pin kit from dalton, and keep notes as to what works with what for a quick change.
But, hey thats just me. Most want a set it an forget it like the ronco rotisserie. lol
how does clicker setting effect low end, as far as acceleration?
#37
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:40 PM
im in the same boat, just posted a similar topic, I have the team tied setup, and pull around 7700. was thinking it was my after market can. I am also running the ultimax belt? clickers on 3 don't really feel the need to change, shouldn't the clickers just be used to adjust for snow conditions if i set to max then when i get wet snow im done and have no room for adjustment correct? sounds like moving the clickers is a patch not a fix.
Also for weather condition.. ideally you want to clutch such that you can essentially run the same in snow and trail... But weather impact is significant on engine power and engine rpm. Cold dry high barometer .. lots of power and over rev.. warm humid and low barometer, sled engine under revs. Western guys use clickers for elevation changes more then anything.
Sounds like those XS belts are very soft and grab the pulleys pulling the engine speeds down. As mentioned... learned early that doo belts seem to over all perform the best and have not used the after market belts in some time. I might have to rethink that position.
#38
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:52 PM
If you test you can find where the sled goes the fastest and it's not always at the peak hp rpm. Most of the time I found anyway that just under is the fastest times an speed. It seems that if the motor is still working hard to get there it's optimum in a speed run.
Renegade 800r
Suspension.....Zbroz X1's...... Monster Performance
Clutching..........414's...23gr...190/410......BHXPG....157/303....HTR in both
Track................XC PRO...137x15x1.75......144 Studs
Gearing............23/45
Intake................V-Force-3....Bondi Air Box.....Needles Shimmed .020
Exhaust............Ceramic Stock Pipe...Stock Muffler.....BMP's Exhaust Manifold ("Y" PIPE)
Ski's..................The Incisor ( self design)...... 8" Bergstrom Triple-points
RS Seat............8'' Risers.......RS Boot Grippers
Plug n Play........Grip n Rip Bracing ..........Ipone Oil
#39
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:33 PM
im do for a belt next season 09 800x carb, what skidoo belt do u recommend?Also for weather condition.. ideally you want to clutch such that you can essentially run the same in snow and trail... But weather impact is significant on engine power and engine rpm. Cold dry high barometer .. lots of power and over rev.. warm humid and low barometer, sled engine under revs. Western guys use clickers for elevation changes more then anything.
Sounds like those XS belts are very soft and grab the pulleys pulling the engine speeds down. As mentioned... learned early that doo belts seem to over all perform the best and have not used the after market belts in some time. I might have to rethink that position.
#40
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:34 PM
so u can get faster speed not being at full rpm, im confusedIn general the lower the clicker the better the acceleration and top speed will be as the ramp angle is effected and is less and over come easier, and shifts faster putting more load. But, you don't want to cut peak rpm at wot too far back. But, that is for only the one shot deal such as a drag race or radar run. It will not be the optimum setting for trail as throttle response is your friend from corner to corner.
If you test you can find where the sled goes the fastest and it's not always at the peak hp rpm. Most of the time I found anyway that just under is the fastest times an speed. It seems that if the motor is still working hard to get there it's optimum in a speed run.
#41
Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:01 PM
Try top speed runs for yourself at the rpm recommended to achieve peak hp and then run it again at one click higher than what it was set at on the first run, and then try it at one click lower than what it was set at on the first run and document the differences.
Renegade 800r
Suspension.....Zbroz X1's...... Monster Performance
Clutching..........414's...23gr...190/410......BHXPG....157/303....HTR in both
Track................XC PRO...137x15x1.75......144 Studs
Gearing............23/45
Intake................V-Force-3....Bondi Air Box.....Needles Shimmed .020
Exhaust............Ceramic Stock Pipe...Stock Muffler.....BMP's Exhaust Manifold ("Y" PIPE)
Ski's..................The Incisor ( self design)...... 8" Bergstrom Triple-points
RS Seat............8'' Risers.......RS Boot Grippers
Plug n Play........Grip n Rip Bracing ..........Ipone Oil
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