14 replies to this topic

[Sean Lahey]

Hi Guys,

I am reaching out on this subject which I know was discused in part previously. 2012 800ETEC MXZX and I cannot seem to get the suspension set up close to as good as my 2009 XP was. My buddy has the same machine in 2012 600ETEC X and he is crushing me in the trails. He wieghs 160 pounds and I weigh 195 plus gear. with my 2009 and his 2009 we were about the same in all conditions and he admits I was faster than him most of the time.

I have tried center spring real soft and real hard. cannot find the sweet spot. Machine has picks down the cetner with 8 inch carbides center, 4 inch outside. Right now I am set up as follows.

front springs on 2.5 or so with clickers on 14
Cetner spring set up fairly loose so I can move spring with ease when strap at full length
Rear 2.5 or so. rear clicker on 12 to 14.
I also tried the rear cams on 1,2 and 3, not much help

Not sure what I am doing wrong here. Maybe the 1.25 inch track is hurting me compared the 1 inch I had before.

this machine does have the quick adjust. rear spring adjust kicks in with tension on the knob just past the "#1" position. my buddies 600 has tension before the "#1" postion. (heard maybe there are issues here)

I would love some advice. The only time I can ride this thing fast and controllable, is in loose snow conditions. bumps or no bumps does not matter.

With hard pack I have the following reactions.

Major darting, sticking in others ski tracks making turning unpredictable
very heavy steering and some ski lift but not terrible
front end drops hard when I tap the brakes
impossible to kick out rear skid.

So I wonder should I tighten center 75% crushing soft zone of second rate spring?
Run fronts on 3 or more?
set rear more around 3 plus?

My 2009 had the aftermarket X shocks (front and Rear) from the catalogue in 2010-11 season and it was awesome handling on rails. ran that machine on 3-2-3 as base setup. Same carbide set up with same number of picks down the center as my 2012.

We drive hard and fast.

thanks for any advice.

[NB-REV800X]

Take your front springs down to 2 or less and clickers like 18 out. Turn your rear shock all the way out. For rear springs go to the 3'rd hardest one. You should have about 4" sag give or take messured from the back bumper. Also suck your front limiter strap all the way in. Let me know how this works.

[Sean Lahey]

you mean suck the limiter strap up 1 notch? I was hoping not to have to. However I did do this on my 2009. You also said to leave the rear shock on full soft, are these settings someone or you are using on a 2012 X 800 ETEC?

apprecaite the advice.

[miker2008]

Take your front springs down to 2 or less and clickers like 18 out. Turn your rear shock all the way out. For rear springs go to the 3'rd hardest one. You should have about 4" sag give or take messured from the back bumper. Also suck your front limiter strap all the way in. Let me know how this works.

what is the purpose of taking the clickers 18 out? i am trying to dial my 2012 x 800e and was told that having the clicker at the harder setting was better for trails and bumps?

sometimes i feel like in the bumpy mogully sections, even straightaways, my sled is rocking side to side a little too much

[Sean Lahey]

I think he means 18 tight or clockwise. That is harder. Turning out makes them softer i believe. I had the rocking too. Seemed my center was too tight making the sled like a canoe. Felt like my buddies Polaris. LOL
I think pulling the strap tighter might be the ticket but I cannot try it for at least two weeks. Any other advice from anyone?

[lindasledgirl]

I think he means 18 tight or clockwise. That is harder. Turning out makes them softer i believe. I had the rocking too. Seemed my center was too tight making the sled like a canoe. Felt like my buddies Polaris. LOL
I think pulling the strap tighter might be the ticket but I cannot try it for at least two weeks. Any other advice from anyone?

Yes, 18 clockwise.

[Sean Lahey]

Thought so. Thanks. Any other ideas? Should the rear shock be set soft or harder?

[NB-REV800X]

Mine sled is a 2011. not sure if the valving is much different. Yes I mean turn the front front shock all the way in and then count 18 out. I found otherwise the shocks kicks back too soon on the stutter bumps and makes for a harsh ride. I'm 235+gear and I run my rear X shock turned all the way out and I can ride it like I stole it over anything and it still doesn't bottom out. Yes suck the limiter strap up the way.

Oh totally forgot. Do you have Rmotion?

[Sean Lahey]

Mine sled is a 2011. not sure if the valving is much different. Yes I mean turn the front front shock all the way in and then count 18 out. I found otherwise the shocks kicks back too soon on the stutter bumps and makes for a harsh ride. I'm 235+gear and I run my rear X shock turned all the way out and I can ride it like I stole it over anything and it still doesn't bottom out. Yes suck the limiter strap up the way.

Oh totally forgot. Do you have Rmotion?

Yes I havee R-Motion. I tightened the strap 1 notch which seemed to be a lot. I will work with front klickers 18 out and front shocks set at 3, rear set at 3, blocks at 2, rear clicker near zero and center pretty firm. very similar to my 2009 set up. unfortunately I cannot try all this for a about 2 weeks. should I do different settings for R-motion? I am 195 plus gear.

[miker2008]

what is the carbide setup you have?

front shocks at 3 is too much, when mine are on 1.5 they bite too much

set the rear preload to 1 or 2, this will take more pressure off the skis and set the compression and rebound to your desired firmness

take the coupling blocks to 1

centre shock, tighten it about halfway or more... tighter will take pressure off the skis, looser will put pressure on the skis

once you get your sled to these nice soft settings, get a feel for what bite you have on the front skis and then dial it in...

first step is too loosen the centre shock (try it at full loose), then to adjust preload on rear (each additional rear preload will put more ski pressure) and finally to adjust preload on skis.... coupling blocks can also be used to dial the sled in but only after you get it dialed in really good, many people just crank the coupling to 3/4 but this will take away comfort needlessly

basically, get the sled to full soft and then do a single adjustment at a time and you will find the sweetspot... once these rmotion skids get dialed in, they are sweet!!!!

[Sean Lahey]

what is the carbide setup you have?

front shocks at 3 is too much, when mine are on 1.5 they bite too much

set the rear preload to 1 or 2, this will take more pressure off the skis and set the compression and rebound to your desired firmness

take the coupling blocks to 1

centre shock, tighten it about halfway or more... tighter will take pressure off the skis, looser will put pressure on the skis

once you get your sled to these nice soft settings, get a feel for what bite you have on the front skis and then dial it in...

first step is too loosen the centre shock (try it at full loose), then to adjust preload on rear (each additional rear preload will put more ski pressure) and finally to adjust preload on skis.... coupling blocks can also be used to dial the sled in but only after you get it dialed in really good, many people just crank the coupling to 3/4 but this will take away comfort needlessly

basically, get the sled to full soft and then do a single adjustment at a time and you will find the sweetspot... once these rmotion skids get dialed in, they are sweet!!!!

thanks, will try that. using 8 inch on center carbides and the stock 4 inch on the outside with 84 picks down the center. 1 1/4 track

[Jeb©]

I think he means 18 tight or clockwise. That is harder. Turning out makes them softer i believe. I had the rocking too. Seemed my center was too tight making the sled like a canoe. Felt like my buddies Polaris. LOL
I think pulling the strap tighter might be the ticket but I cannot try it for at least two weeks. Any other advice from anyone?

I would get the 222lb ctr tender spring, suck the limiter up one. The ctr spring setup is very soft for anyone over 200lbs unless you are low speed cruising. I would also recomend getting all 4 shocks rebuilt/ recharged. Until you do this you can try settings all you want an you will not know what this skid is capable of. The fronts are critical as they will be the weak link when the you fix the rear.

[Sean Lahey]

I would get the 222lb ctr tender spring, suck the limiter up one. The ctr spring setup is very soft for anyone over 200lbs unless you are low speed cruising. I would also recomend getting all 4 shocks rebuilt/ recharged. Until you do this you can try settings all you want an you will not know what this skid is capable of. The fronts are critical as they will be the weak link when the you fix the rear.

I thought about that and noticed that on the forum previously. much appreciated. May do that after I try the settings noted. I should have sucked up the strap first a long time ago. If I were to get them revalved (all 4) my problem is that I do not know who to use and who to trust. I live in Burlington, Ontario. Any suggestions? what is the doo part number for the 222 LB tender spring?

thanks again.

[Jeb©]

I thought about that and noticed that on the forum previously. much appreciated. May do that after I try the settings noted. I should have sucked up the strap first a long time ago. If I were to get them revalved (all 4) my problem is that I do not know who to use and who to trust. I live in Burlington, Ontario. Any suggestions? what is the doo part number for the 222 LB tender spring?

thanks again.

I am not suggesting revalving yet, maybe a bit on the ctr but a proper charge/rebuild with good oil would be sufficient for now and should only run 30-40 per shock. 503192744 which is 222# of rate. If you have the turn around time available Ian@monster performance gets my highest recommendation. Your dealer should be capable of a proper rebuild/recharge with better oil than hpg.

[Sean Lahey]

I am not suggesting revalving yet, maybe a bit on the ctr but a proper charge/rebuild with good oil would be sufficient for now and should only run 30-40 per shock. 503192744 which is 222# of rate. If you have the turn around time available Ian@monster performance gets my highest recommendation. Your dealer should be capable of a proper rebuild/recharge with better oil than hpg.

got it, thanks.