58 replies to this topic

[SkiDoojunky]

Roger that blue, thought about tossing some weight in the primary and using it as the wife's ride or a backup sled, the thrill of the chase with the 1000 sdi is over for me, just like my past conquests the old machs are just notches on the bedpost and good for conversation while enjoying beers with the boys. I have next to nothing in this thing and just want to try and make it live as long as possible.

I will get it to the dealer and figure out what map is in it, thanks for the offer kevin but I would like to keep the original computer to validate actual mileage. If nothing else the race dept might be able to help me with mapping. This sled wasn't uncrated until the spring of 07 and I have followed it's history ever since. It has had 300 miles on it for the last 2 years and I made multiple advances to purchase it but to no avail.....today was the day. I am actually concerned about its lack of use and rust/corrosion on the internals.


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[BlueMax]

Roger that blue, thought about tossing some weight in the primary and using it as the wife's ride or a backup sled, the thrill of the chase with the 1000 sdi is over for me, just like my past conquests the old machs are just notches on the bedpost and good for conversation while enjoying beers with the boys. I have next to nothing in this thing and just want to try and make it live as long as possible.

I will get it to the dealer and figure out what map is in it, thanks for the offer kevin but I would like to keep the original computer to validate actual mileage. If nothing else the race dept might be able to help me with mapping. This sled wasn't uncrated until the spring of 07 and I have followed it's history ever since. It has had 300 miles on it for the last 2 years and I made multiple advances to purchase it but to no avail.....today was the day. I am actually concerned about its lack of use and rust/corrosion on the internals. That would also be my biggest worry.


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[IcutMetl]

FYI- mileage is stored in the speedometer and not the MPEM computer. I was also mistaken about the same thing.

[SkiDoojunky]

Total hours are in the computer, pretty easy to figure out total miles by using the average engine rpm stored in the ecu


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[COOLDOO]

Well not brand new but with only 300 miles it is darn close!

I always said I would like to own a brand new 1000 Sdi and know what I know now. This sled already has uni filters and my fuel pressure gauge kit. My question to the rest of the guys that have been here since day one is what would you do to this sled to ensure longevity? I am curious about fuel mapping as I am not a big fan of the 07 mid altitude map, what other mods would you guys do to make it live a long healthy life? I would like to break my 14,500 mile mark on a 1000 sdi. Thanks in advance


Junky!

NEVER take it out of the garage.

[SkiDoojunky]

NEVER take it out of the garage.

Come on now???? You are talking to a guy that just put one together that had 14,500 miles on it! I know 99% of them never lived to 4000 miles but like I said if this thing goes down tomorrow I'm not out much!

[Octanee]

longevity, add a turbocharger to it

but i think everybody has pretty much summed it up, also i would say with stock oil adjustment, it NEVER hurts to go a bit Richer on oil

[tbj555]

Well not brand new but with only 300 miles it is darn close!

I always said I would like to own a brand new 1000 Sdi and know what I know now. This sled already has uni filters and my fuel pressure gauge kit. My question to the rest of the guys that have been here since day one is what would you do to this sled to ensure longevity? I am curious about fuel mapping as I am not a big fan of the 07 mid altitude map, what other mods would you guys do to make it live a long healthy life? I would like to break my 14,500 mile mark on a 1000 sdi. Thanks in advance


Junky!

I waited just like you untill i found a cherry 05 513 miles all stock no picks, this sled was the lady of a 55 year old coulpe in MI. They had his and hers mach z's so i bought hers his had 2000 miles.She told me she was afraid of the sled , I smiled brought it home i did all upgrades [filters,elec.,clutch cooler.I took one trip on it so far put on 750 miles come home and ordered a DUNN CLUTCH KIT and noticed the engine makes a rattle sound when you rock the clutch back and forth slow. So i tore into it found mag side lower rod starting to egg shape and beat the bearing out [ so lucky i found b4 it let go ] And i aslo bought a second 05 mach z and made it a 2 up to take my girl. It was already blown[ got a deal ] tore into that one same issue lower rod bearing but this trashed everything cases and all. So to sum it up its a roll of the dice when you buy the 2005 first year of them some had weak rods some didn't.

[BlueMax]

Some items not mentioned that should be looked at if you are talking a long term runner. There are a lot of chassis parts floating around due to the rolling chassis a lot of owners were left with.

Check or replace the flywheel to new style.

I would check the runout on the crank and if you have time the phasing.

Check the motor mount bolts. That engine was removed twice before the owner got the sled. At the same time check the exhaust mounting bolts as I would guess they are loose.

If you decide to check crank, I would opt for 06 or newer counterbalancer gears. The newer design has tapered ends on gears to avoid metal chips in Isoflex.

The cylinder head bolts are probably loose also as mine were that way from dealer.

If you feel you have to tinker, I would also replace the plastic gearing in the E-Raves. They were upgraded on the newer models as some oils caused the gears to swell and bind operation. You know the E-Raves have to work properly to keep the engine in good shape long term.

You mentioned the secondary rollers. If the roller mounting bolts are still tight, you should be okay. Some were delivered from factory without Loctite. Others the clutches were so overheated the Loctite was caused to fail.

Check engine clutch alignment. If set properly and with your planned usage, the drive belts should last a season easily.

Rear skid. Replace rails and front arm from 06 or newer. The newer rails improve hifax wear and the front arm is beefed up. You can use a front arm from a race sled also and it has a mount for a remote shock reservoir if you decide to upgrade. Install the HDP plastic bushings in the torsion springs to help eliminate bottoming without adding heavier torsion springs. Keep your eye out for a HYGEAR setup as there are a few for sale for the Mach Z. They work and totally change the sled for trail use. The shocks can be rebuilt and Ross can revalve to your intended use.

You like gages so I would install an actual coolant temp gage. Yes one that actually reads temp. It is important to know actual coolant temp as this gives you an idea of what map is actually being used during trail runs.

If you plan to relocate or replace low pressure pump, I would go to a Carter 60430 pump as it is not a solenoid type pump.

I would check to see if the decompression system is active. Not all 05s had the decompression plugs replaced.

This sounds like a lot of work but it is a few nights or weekends during the summer. A good excuse to get some quiet time away from the twins. How can the wife complain??? You can say you are working on her sled. Just be patient if you are looking for upgrade parts as there are some real deals available. Post in the "wanted to buy" what you are looking for and you may be surprised.

[SkiDoojunky]

Some items not mentioned that should be looked at if you are talking a long term runner. There are a lot of chassis parts floating around due to the rolling chassis a lot of owners were left with.

Check or replace the flywheel to new style.

I would check the runout on the crank and if you have time the phasing.

Check the motor mount bolts. That engine was removed twice before the owner got the sled. At the same time check the exhaust mounting bolts as I would guess they are loose.

If you decide to check crank, I would opt for 06 or newer counterbalancer gears. The newer design has tapered ends on gears to avoid metal chips in Isoflex.

The cylinder head bolts are probably loose also as mine were that way from dealer.

If you feel you have to tinker, I would also replace the plastic gearing in the E-Raves. They were upgraded on the newer models as some oils caused the gears to swell and bind operation. You know the E-Raves have to work properly to keep the engine in good shape long term.

You mentioned the secondary rollers. If the roller mounting bolts are still tight, you should be okay. Some were delivered from factory without Loctite. Others the clutches were so overheated the Loctite was caused to fail.

Check engine clutch alignment. If set properly and with your planned usage, the drive belts should last a season easily.

Rear skid. Replace rails and front arm from 06 or newer. The newer rails improve hifax wear and the front arm is beefed up. You can use a front arm from a race sled also and it has a mount for a remote shock reservoir if you decide to upgrade. Install the HDP plastic bushings in the torsion springs to help eliminate bottoming without adding heavier torsion springs. Keep your eye out for a HYGEAR setup as there are a few for sale for the Mach Z. They work and totally change the sled for trail use. The shocks can be rebuilt and Ross can revalve to your intended use.

You like gages so I would install an actual coolant temp gage. Yes one that actually reads temp. It is important to know actual coolant temp as this gives you an idea of what map is actually being used during trail runs.

If you plan to relocate or replace low pressure pump, I would go to a Carter 60430 pump as it is not a solenoid type pump.

I would check to see if the decompression system is active. Not all 05s had the decompression plugs replaced.

This sounds like a lot of work but it is a few nights or weekends during the summer. A good excuse to get some quiet time away from the twins. How can the wife complain??? You can say you are working on her sled. Just be patient if you are looking for upgrade parts as there are some real deals available. Post in the "wanted to buy" what you are looking for and you may be surprised.

Thanks Blue, these are all good ideas! I moved my shop home since the twins were born that way she/they could keep close tabs on me. She won't be riding until next year so I will more than likely not do any mods till next fall. I have another customers 05 in the garage now getting crank/pistons/cases so that will consume whatever free time I have till spring field work breaks. I am undecided on wether or not I am going to split the case to have a look see at the internals, all depends how much free time I get. Otherwise I will do what turbo said and "cross my fingers"

I have not done a search but just what exactly is the "proper" way to summarize an Sdi?

[BlueMax]

Thanks Blue, these are all good ideas! I moved my shop home since the twins were born that way she/they could keep close tabs on me. She won't be riding until next year so I will more than likely not do any mods till next fall. I have another customers 05 in the garage now getting crank/pistons/cases so that will consume whatever free time I have till spring field work breaks. I am undecided on wether or not I am going to split the case to have a look see at the internals, all depends how much free time I get. Otherwise I will do what turbo said and "cross my fingers"

I have not done a search but just what exactly is the "proper" way to summarize an Sdi?

I use the secret special 1000 SDI summerize mode. Actually it is the procedure for a flooded engine. You can turn the motor over quite a few times without fuel and get a good coating of oil. I tried it both with and without spark plugs. Without the plugs, you can see oil coming out if you cover with paper.

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[hungupthespikes]

"I use the secret special 1000 SDI summerize mode. Actually it is the procedure for a flooded engine. You can turn the motor over quite a few times without fuel and get a good coating of oil. I tried it both with and without spark plugs. Without the plugs, you can see oil coming out if you cover with paper."



Bluemax, your a flipping genius.
Here's another one we owe you.

huts

[turbo89]

Come on now???? You are talking to a guy that just put one together that had 14,500 miles on it! I know 99% of them never lived to 4000 miles but like I said if this thing goes down tomorrow I'm not out much!

If you dont want to break it down and look at the bottom end ...

At the expense of a 6 pack to your local AG DEALER and a few hours of your time (quiet time away from the twins) .. you could borrow a borescope .. They are not even that expensive to purchase and if you work on alot of sleds then it would pay for itself in no time just in gasket costs.

It will at least tell you what shape the rod bearings are as you can get to both lube holes front and back to see if there is rust on them or not.

it does require removal of the reeds which isnt fun with out a 1/4 impact swivel .. but not bad at all.

It would at least give you the opportunity to get a better idea of whats down there ... just sayin ... sometimes having a better picture makes it easier to Cross the fingers

[SkiDoojunky]

If you dont want to break it down and look at the bottom end ...

At the expense of a 6 pack to your local AG DEALER and a few hours of your time (quiet time away from the twins) .. you could borrow a borescope .. They are not even that expensive to purchase and if you work on alot of sleds then it would pay for itself in no time just in gasket costs.

It will at least tell you what shape the rod bearings are as you can get to both lube holes front and back to see if there is rust on them or not.

it does require removal of the reeds which isnt fun with out a 1/4 impact swivel .. but not bad at all.

It would at least give you the opportunity to get a better idea of whats down there ... just sayin ... sometimes having a better picture makes it easier to Cross the fingers

Probably a good idea turbo, after all you can never have too many cool tools in the box!

[CrazyBill]

First thing I did was add seafoam/startron then got the engine hot so the fuel additive was run through the system. Then pulled the air box and sprayed fogging oil in the throttle bodies until it died. Start it back up and do it again. My 05 had 12000 miles when the second owner freshened up the top and bottom, not due to failure! Good luck buddy