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Formula Z 670 secondary issues?


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#1 98formulaz

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 10:38 AM

Hey again guys. so i changed my track in my sled from a beat up old bomb to a hacksaw, had the secondary off for ease of hub removal. put the secondary back on but im not sure its shimmed right?(a friend of mine removed it and now hes up north where im supposed to be going so im not sure how they were) now for some reason my deflection seems off and the track spins all the time if you hit the brake it'll almost kill the motor, leaving for a trip..ummm 2 hours ago? lol i checked a microfiche and the shims that are on my clutch are COMPLETELY different so im not sure if its even the right secondary for the machine(there was heavy repaired damage to the tunnel where the drivers are, in the chain case and in the hub as well-wondering if old clutch was damaged and replaced- but could the secondary being misaligned even by a couple of shimms cause the belt to be that tight? you can see that its hugging the inside of the primary but ive tried a million other arrangements with the shims i have and this is the only way it seems to work right? does anyone have an actual photo of how their secondary is installed on a similar sled?

#2 BillInIowa

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 11:50 AM

Are you sure you have the right belt? Did the engine shift forward a bit like from maybe a worn shock mount? Did the adjustment for the belt come out of the part that pushes against the motor? If you leave all the shims out, does it help the belt tension?





Hey again guys. so i changed my track in my sled from a beat up old bomb to a hacksaw, had the secondary off for ease of hub removal. put the secondary back on but im not sure its shimmed right?(a friend of mine removed it and now hes up north where im supposed to be going so im not sure how they were) now for some reason my deflection seems off and the track spins all the time if you hit the brake it'll almost kill the motor, leaving for a trip..ummm 2 hours ago? lol i checked a microfiche and the shims that are on my clutch are COMPLETELY different so im not sure if its even the right secondary for the machine(there was heavy repaired damage to the tunnel where the drivers are, in the chain case and in the hub as well-wondering if old clutch was damaged and replaced- but could the secondary being misaligned even by a couple of shimms cause the belt to be that tight? you can see that its hugging the inside of the primary but ive tried a million other arrangements with the shims i have and this is the only way it seems to work right? does anyone have an actual photo of how their secondary is installed on a similar sled?



#3 TT670

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 12:02 PM

Shims dont adjust belt deflection or tightness, only the alignment. For the belt deflection you use the 3 allen screws on the clutch. Loosen the 10mm locknuts and tighten the 3 screws evenly to open the clutch which loosens the belt, adjust till the track barely creeps at an idle with the rear raised. Once youre happy, lock down the 3 nuts and youre done.

#4 agent008

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 12:19 PM

secondary should float a few mm on the shaft
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#5 cholbert

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 12:21 PM

You need a clutch alignment tool also to know what shims and how many to use.
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#6 98formulaz

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 04:19 PM

Are you sure you have the right belt? Did the engine shift forward a bit like from maybe a worn shock mount? Did the adjustment for the belt come out of the part that pushes against the motor? If you leave all the shims out, does it help the belt tension?



Yeh ive had that same belt on there since ive owned the machine it could been the worn out shock mount i did notice the motor has a bit of play not alot mind you but some but i'll try it without any shims at all and see what happens!

#7 98formulaz

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 04:22 PM

Shims dont adjust belt deflection or tightness, only the alignment. For the belt deflection you use the 3 allen screws on the clutch. Loosen the 10mm locknuts and tighten the 3 screws evenly to open the clutch which loosens the belt, adjust till the track barely creeps at an idle with the rear raised. Once youre happy, lock down the 3 nuts and youre done.



thats good to know as i didnt know how to change deflection on this clutch set up and i'll be sure to dink with that a bit as the deflection has always looked a little off to me, but never this bad.

#8 98formulaz

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:24 PM

hey guys so i dont have the tools to check deflection properly right this second but its Definitely way off, and the sled has always had a bad idle and i suspect this is why. also, figured out my shims using a picture id taken of my motor a couple months ago, and there is EXACTLY 2mm of play if not a little less then that, so that part seems fixed belt looks good and centered in there. definitely need to grab a scale and see about that deflection tho,




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