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Where should belt be on secondary?


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#1 Budweiser

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 01:04 PM

2014 600 ETEC.  TNT.  Not mine, I'm used to 4-strokes where the belt height on secondary is different depending on which reverse you have.  I also don't have the owners manual.

 

So where should it be? Thanks!



#2 ultrarider

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 01:33 PM

The low valleys of the belt should be even with the top of the secondary clutch pulley.  It doesn't  take much otherwise to effect the RER reverse operation.  My sled's belt was too high from dealer set-up, and the RER reverse would stall the motor.   Now that I adjusted it, it works every time.  Mines a 2016 Blizzard 800


Edited by ultrarider, 13 June 2017 - 01:40 PM.


#3 Budweiser

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 05:06 PM

Great. Thanks for info.

#4 IcutMetl

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 05:43 PM

Belt height in the secondary is not a good way to gage proper deflection; sure, maybe with a brand new OEM belt. What if your belt becomes worn or you are running an aftermarket belt? That advise is void.

Raise the rear of the snowmobile and adjust the belt using the secondary until you can get the track to start moving with the pull of one finger or get the slightest bit of creep.

#5 Thumb2bar

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 06:12 PM

And all clutches are not the same. Each reacts in ways that even Einstein would have a hard time understanding, especially clutches that have plenty of action in their history. Belts themselves can differ.  Some tuners prefer the belt top flush with secondary top, some as described by Ultra. Test them, and the creep method is a sound way for base testing^



#6 jumpinjohnny

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 03:23 PM

f the belt is sitting with the cogs above secondary and there is just a slight amount of wiggle at the primary should be close.. from there i believe an 1-1.5" of belt deflection measured from the center using a straight edge.. if it creeps on the ground.. to tight.. if its boggy on the start to loose..

hope this helps a little


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#7 Dynamo^Joe

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 06:55 PM

If one was to read a shop manual you will see the information state...

 

One] Drive belts can vary in length by 6mm (1/4") and...

Two] 2 settings

  • Setting #1) Preliminary setting
  • Setting #2) Final setting.

 

Setting #1) The preliminary setting is to put the belt on the clutches and "manually rotate the belt by hand" counter clockwise on the clutches.  The drive belt cord can be flush with the pulley edge.

Setting #2) To obtain maximum performance, the belt tension must be adjusted according to specifications shown on the accompanying chart.  (Wooden stick and spring scale method)  Deflect the belt 1.25" and achieve 25 lbs down force doing it.

 

This is slightly too tight

 

This is just right.

Now if you do not perform "setting #2) ok then, no big deal.   If you set the drive belt like I mention in the video it will be at the correct tension "regardless" of the variation in belt length.

 

And a super good competent mechanic "Mech Mike" explains about the BRP belt change tool and something really neat about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD-QLLHB4W4



#8 Sleeper 7

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 07:26 PM

If using the creep method, track tension and alignment needs to be correct first.  Also make adjustments after a short ride. Cold belt,track etc will give false info.






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