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Center shock question


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#1 snowshreder

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 11:19 AM

I spring ordered a 2018 1200 renegade x with the adjustment package. The rear Pro 36 shock will work fine for me espesially when I setup it up for my weight and riding style. I purchased a set of Pro 40 front shocks and have set them up with hygear twisted springs setup for my weight.                                                           

 

My question is 'How big a deal is the track center shock on sled ride'.                                                                                                                                                 

 

Ive never messed with the center shock and wonder if im missing something big here. I looked at Exit center shocks but was wondering if its a waste of $600 to change the stock setup.  I have run a stiffer tender spring on my last two sleds and felt it did make the sled ride a bit better for my weight but don't know what I could gain from and adjustable shock in that position. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks


Edited by snowshreder, 13 June 2017 - 11:29 AM.


#2 Maize

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 07:40 PM

The entire suspension 'centers' around the center shock.

 

It determines ride quality, handling and ski pressure.

 

A too stiff center shock and the steering will be very light, have way too much weight transfer and a harsh ride.

 

Too soft a center shock and the steering will be very heavy, bottom out  alot and not very much weight transfer.

 

A dual rate spring a very good set up for this shock with an adjustable cross over. You can set it so crusing is nice and then when you hammer it will get stiffer to make is much more performance oriented.

 

Here is guide that I made that will walk you through how to set up your sled.

 

http://www.maizekust...nstructions.php


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#3 Sevey

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 08:23 PM

The Center shock is a huge pivot point on the sled transferring weight to the nose (skis) or to the rear. It is key to finding the correct balance of having enough bite on your skis for great handling. If improperly tuned there will be not enough bite or pressure on the skis or so much your shoulders will scream when you turn the bars.

 

That shock should be the highest quality on the sled, with full adjustment - but they never are.

 

Not to mention that shock takes the brunt of everything the track strikes. It has a tough life in my opinion.lol

 

MS



#4 snowshreder

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 03:27 PM

Thanks for your input guys. I guess I'm hopeing for a bit more like, Will the compression adjustment help the nose heavy 1200 from diving into big holes or is this just a function of the front shocks. Can you use the compression adjustment to keep the shock from bottoming while still keeping the spring fairly soft to give a better ride? Again not sure how the shock works in the center position so am probably asking dumb questions. My basic concern is , if I can improve the ride with a better shock then its probably worth it, but if the gain is not really noticeable than perhaps $600 is better saved. For example the Twisted Springs I put on last year were truly amazing on the effect it had on ride quality of the frontend, Perhaps I just need to try it and experience the change for myself but like I said all these things are a bit pricey


Edited by snowshreder, 16 June 2017 - 03:38 PM.


#5 440x

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 04:02 PM

Imo you can revalve the center shock to keep from blowing through the travel and act more like a stock pro 40 center, but it only stays that way for a few miles of rough trail then fades. The problem is lack of oil in the stock center. A reservoir shock like p40 will continue to ride the same way all day. This is what i found anyway on my 1200s after trying stock x, revalved x, and pro 40 centers.

#6 Maize

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 08:56 PM

Thanks for your input guys. I guess I'm hopeing for a bit more like, Will the compression adjustment help the nose heavy 1200 from diving into big holes or is this just a function of the front shocks. Can you use the compression adjustment to keep the shock from bottoming while still keeping the spring fairly soft to give a better ride? Again not sure how the shock works in the center position so am probably asking dumb questions. My basic concern is , if I can improve the ride with a better shock then its probably worth it, but if the gain is not really noticeable than perhaps $600 is better saved. For example the Twisted Springs I put on last year were truly amazing on the effect it had on ride quality of the frontend, Perhaps I just need to try it and experience the change for myself but like I said all these things are a bit pricey

 

You can revalve the center shock to work just fine.  Have you ever experienced shock fade?  

 

Running into shock fade after a 'few miles' IMO is an exaggeration, no offense to anyone.  Most people can't/don't ride hard enough to experience shock fade.  Not saying it doesn't happen, it just takes a LOT more than a few miles to happen.

 

The shock fade is going to depend upon the quality of the oil that is used on how long it takes to break down.  Cheaper oil is going to break down sooner than a good synthetic.    It may happen somewhat sooner on a 1200 than an 800 2-stroke.  It will definately happen sooner on a center shock than all the other as it has the smallest amount and takes the most abuse.

 

Even a Pro-40 center shock will break down sooner than the other 3.  They have about 3/5ths the oil the rest do.  So even it will break down sooner than the other three.

 

If you have not experienced shock fade then revalving your current shock would be a good option.  If you experience a lot of shock fading, the money would be wise.

 

I have riden 250-300 mile days on Wisconsin trails using shocks with 1000 miles and they got a bit soft on the studders but anything short of that and they were fine.

 

Pro40 shocks are really nice shocks.  Axis shocks are really nice shocks....but most people cannot ride to their full potential.  Kind of like having a Porsche 911 for a city commute.  Nice car, but you will never be able to drive it to its potential.

 

If cost is an issue.  I would opt to revalve your current shock, install a good set of dual rate springs and see how you like it.  If you experience shock fade, you can then opt to upgrade the center shock.  You can ALWAYS sell a good rebuilable center shock for the cost of set of dual rate springs.  Since you already have the rebuilable center shock, If you sell the setup for the cost of the spring you are a wash on price and you will know if really need that shock or not.  Used Pro40's are becoming more available and lowering on used prices.

 

Just some thoughts I share with my shock customers when they ask me the same questions.


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Specializing in snowmobile shock

 

SERVICE WORK!

 

Fresh rebuilds, or fully custom valved to match you!


Helpful link for doing your own work:

http://www.dootalk.c...on#entry8564418



You can find all the ordering info on my website at:


http://www.maizekust...-order-form.php



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#7 AZSnowlvr

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 03:45 PM

IMO on the 1200 (my experience was a shorty) was that it tended to want to go rear over front when going through the moguls.  I think there were 2 variables that caused this, 1) extra weight in the front, 2) short track, 3) cheap center shock.  Mine was stock, before I switch over to a zbroz center with a dual rate spring.  I am not advocating a zbroz over another brand, but going from the stocker to the aftermarket made a huge difference.  I found with the better shock with the piggy back (more oil) that the shock was able to maintain over the day much better and the dual rate made the initial hit more manageable. If it were me, my money is on the center in a 1200 first.



#8 snowshreder

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 08:28 AM

Thanks guys I think Ill go for it. I was looking at ZBROZ Exit stage 3 piggyback with dual springs, compression and rebound adjustment. I would like to stay with the Pro 40 but the cost is almost double the ZBROZ and I have heard good things about the Exit shocks.






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