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Clutch won't adjust out


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#1 NLfireblade

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 02:51 PM

I bought a 2014 freeride 137". Riding it today and it will only rev to 7000 rpm. I checked the belt and it is sitting 1/8-1/4" higher than it should be. I backed off the adjuster but the clutch will not come out to meet it, even after riding it. The clutch goes in no problem, with the tool, to change the belt so it isn't stuck. I tried a brand new belt and it sits even higher.

Will the belt being that high in the secondary cause my low revving issue? Any ideas why the clutch cup won't come out to meet the adjuster when I back it off? It should be able to adjust to fit a new belt no problem.

Thanks!

FREERIDE 137 800
Honda CBR1000RR
Yamaha VMax 1700

Husky Strada 650


#2 900mac

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 03:25 PM

Are you sure you are turning it the right way, its backwards from what you would think.



#3 NLfireblade

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 03:49 PM

Yes, you can see the gap created.

FREERIDE 137 800
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#4 900mac

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 04:49 PM

The gap created means you turned it the wrong way, try the other way.



#5 Wink1

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 11:15 PM

You need to turn the adjuster in to make the belt go down. You probably have it adjusted out so far that the sheaves are bottomed out against each other.

Edited by Wink1, 08 April 2017 - 07:11 AM.



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#6 Craze1cars

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 06:46 AM

x3 you're definitely doing it backwards.  Turn that adjuster inward, so it starts compressing the spring and separating the sheaves from each other (just like your belt removal tool does!), and you will see your belt dropping between the sheaves to where it should be.  Then lock it in there at the correct location.

 

But as for the 2nd part of your question...would this cause your RPMS to be too low while riding.  No.  Once you are in motion the deflection adjuster makes no difference whatsoever...it's only a "first gear" adjustment for each time you take off from a standing start.

 

So there are 2 things going on here....one is simple human error on your belt adjustment.  But the second thing causing your RPMS to be low?  Not sure.


Edited by Craze1cars, 08 April 2017 - 06:47 AM.


#7 NLfireblade

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 05:24 PM

I realized my mistake after and I can't believe I made this rookie mistake lol. It's been a few years since I've had to adjust a belt... and that's all I have to say about that lol.

I changed the gearing from 23/45 to 20/49. Will that drop my rpms? If so, it's the first time I've changed my gearing and had a drastic effect like that. I tried to adjust my clickers to bring the rpms back up. They're on setting 2. But, I can only turn back to 1. They won't turn to any other numbers. Anything I need to know here?

Thanks for the replies!

FREERIDE 137 800
Honda CBR1000RR
Yamaha VMax 1700

Husky Strada 650


#8 Wink1

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 05:39 PM

How hard did you try with the clickers? Turning them up usually takes a little effort because you are moving the ramps. When you turn them down, the eccentric is backing away from the ramps and the inertial force of the weights when running pushes the ramps back against the eccentrics.

As for rpm problem, sounds like your clutches need a good going over. Possibly a broken spring. Good time of year to be doing that.


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#9 IcutMetl

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 05:44 PM

I realized my mistake after and I can't believe I made this rookie mistake lol. It's been a few years since I've had to adjust a belt... and that's all I have to say about that lol.

I changed the gearing from 23/45 to 20/49. Will that drop my rpms? If so, it's the first time I've changed my gearing and had a drastic effect like that. I tried to adjust my clickers to bring the rpms back up. They're on setting 2. But, I can only turn back to 1. They won't turn to any other numbers. Anything I need to know here?

Thanks for the replies!


That's a heck of a gearing change; 1.96 to 2.33. What kind of sled? Clutching controls rpm; you'll likely run out of gear and over-rev if you like winding it tight down a straight trail.

#10 NLfireblade

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 06:21 PM

It's a 2014 freeride 137. Moving from 2 to 6 should put me in the ballpark.

FREERIDE 137 800
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#11 Daag44

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 09:48 PM

I realized my mistake after and I can't believe I made this rookie mistake lol. It's been a few years since I've had to adjust a belt... and that's all I have to say about that lol.

I changed the gearing from 23/45 to 20/49. Will that drop my rpms? If so, it's the first time I've changed my gearing and had a drastic effect like that. I tried to adjust my clickers to bring the rpms back up. They're on setting 2. But, I can only turn back to 1. They won't turn to any other numbers. Anything I need to know here?

Thanks for the replies!

 

You are right, lowering the gearing will tend to lower the Max Engine RPM because it changes the position of the arms for the same Track Speed. This could be a good thing if it takes advantage of a colder pipe. By changing clickers from 2-3-4 you should be able to find the best rpm for different conditions. So you may not even need to change a thing other than clickers.

 

What is the Max Engine RPM on clicker 2?



#12 Daag44

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 11:17 PM

It's a 2014 freeride 137. Moving from 2 to 6 should put me in the ballpark.

 
I completely missed the 137" . I was looking only at the 146" in your profile. Just curious if this is a change for high elevation? Changes like these can require a number of other changes like the cam and sec spring not to mention ramps a weight calibration. While I know how to calibrate clutching by observing the response and temps, etc....I try to stay as far away from making my own setups as there are tuners who doo this for a living. They have a solid understanding of the various applications and elevation, so this makes it so much easier for me. Just understanding how a change in engine performance will affect clutching is complicated enough. For me knowing that a Driveline calibration works and has been tested for my application is priceless. By the time I have worked out the bugs in an engine, clutch maintenance, alignment and suspension adjustments, I have no time or even interest left to build a calibration of my own.
 
While I use mostly use OEM setups for trail with modifications to lower belt temps, for off-trail our local group have been using DJ's kits for a number of years. It works and it makes it very easy to know if the engine is up to par. If I loose power after 20min of hard riding I need to figure out quickly if it is clutch, belt or engine related. That's enough work for me. Best of luck.

#13 IcutMetl

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 08:03 AM

It's a 2014 freeride 137. Moving from 2 to 6 should put me in the ballpark.


It's my understanding that you want to clutch for proper rpm on clicker 3.

#14 NLfireblade

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 06:42 AM

A little force and I was able to turn the adjusters. It makes sense that it would require some gentle force but in the last sled I adjusted clickers on, I could do it with my fingers. The clickers must work like a cam I guess. I moved up to #6 and it got worse. It would still go to 7000rpm but it was at 1/2 throttle instead of 3/4 throttle. I put it on 1 and it still went to 7000rpm and still about 3/4 throttle but it seemed to pull through the available revs better. 

 

To increase rpm, do you adjust down in clicker number, or up? I really can't see my gearing change causing the sled to rev to only 7000rpm. I've regeared every machine I've owned and it has never affected peak rpm. I put 300km on it this past weekend and the engine seems to pull great up to 7000rpm and 3/4 throttle. Anything after 3/4 and it just maintains 7000 and feels like it's boggy.

 

I put the same gearing in a freeride 146 that I bought back in January and it worked great. That's why I put it in the 137". I recently swapped for the 137" because I missed the handling of the shorter sled. 


Edited by NLfireblade, 11 April 2017 - 06:45 AM.

FREERIDE 137 800
Honda CBR1000RR
Yamaha VMax 1700

Husky Strada 650


#15 IcutMetl

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 07:24 AM

A little force and I was able to turn the adjusters. It makes sense that it would require some gentle force but in the last sled I adjusted clickers on, I could do it with my fingers. The clickers must work like a cam I guess. I moved up to #6 and it got worse. It would still go to 7000rpm but it was at 1/2 throttle instead of 3/4 throttle. I put it on 1 and it still went to 7000rpm and still about 3/4 throttle but it seemed to pull through the available revs better.

To increase rpm, do you adjust down in clicker number, or up? I really can't see my gearing change causing the sled to rev to only 7000rpm. I've regeared every machine I've owned and it has never affected peak rpm. I put 300km on it this past weekend and the engine seems to pull great up to 7000rpm and 3/4 throttle. Anything after 3/4 and it just maintains 7000 and feels like it's boggy.

I put the same gearing in a freeride 146 that I bought back in January and it worked great. That's why I put it in the 137". I recently swapped for the 137" because I missed the handling of the shorter sled.


Again; fix your clutching to achieve rpm on clicker 3. The clicker IS a cam that raises or lowers the rear of the ramp. Have you tried replacing your springs or checking the condition of your other wear parts?




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