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TRA "Clickers" and a little refresher

1K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  NO HAND 
#1 ·
Hey there fellows, it's been a long time since I was racing my '98 MXZ 670 and needless to say I am having trouble remembering what those little numbered positions on the "clickers" I'm told they are called. Sorry for the horrible questions but again it's been a long time, the last time I had a TRA clutch apart was in 2000 and I installed a "Thunder Shift Kit" Basically the last time I had this sled out I was able to pull about 7400 RPM on a long straight and it seemed to plateau there, wasn't breaking down or anything just kinda stopped reving. The "Clickers" are pointing at 5 and I have a feeling that 2 or 3 is where I should be at for a baseline, am I even close with this assumption? I was planning on doing the Marker Trick on the clutches to see how far the belt is traveling in the clutches. I think I read somewhere that these FIII make their peek power around 8400 RPM

I plan on getting further into this sled in the summer but if I can tweak it a but now and work some things out while there is snow it would be great.

Thanks in advance guys.

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#2 ·
The clickers determine your top RPM. If I remember, each number = 100 rpm. So if you are in 5 at 7400, turning down to 3 would drop you down to 7200. Have you taken the clutch apart and cleaned it? Motor up to stuff? Correct primary spring in it? Lot of variables here if its not pulling the RPM.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Your OP is a little confusing as I believe you are talking about two different sleds here. The clutch kit was installed in the 670 right?
You need to get back to basics and assess the total sled, not just the clutching. Michael Phelps couldn't win a medal with a broken arm. A sick sled won't perform well either.
I would confirm the compression is where it should be, the plugs and wires are in good condition and the carbs are absolutely spotlessly clean with the correct jetting and adjustment. Good belt, engine stopper, and good motor mounts. Is the exhaust clean and open with no mouse or other vermin nests? Is the air box clean and debris free? You can't make a sick engine fast. Nor can you make a sled fast with a sick chassis. All suspension bearings must be free as well as jackshaft bearings and the chain adjustment should be checked and the chaincase properly filled. The rail slides should be in good condition as well as track clips all in place and rust free. Is the brake free and releasing correctly? Are the skis aligned properly? It's amazing how things "happen" just with the sled sitting in storage for a period of time.
To answer your original question. As was stated above, lowering the clicker number will lower the rpm. I would remove both the drive and driven clutches and disassemble them completely checking for dirt and wear on all moving parts.
The F111 should have a rose and white marked spring BRP part # 414991400, 281 ramps, and 417004308 pins. I'm not sure of the pin weight but someone here may know. These springs will lose tension sitting compressed for long periods of time in a clutch. That is why I remove the springs from all my clutches at season's end every spring and leave the clutch apart until the following fall. Don't ignore the driven clutch either. It needs TLC just like the drive clutch. Everything must work together to be happy.
Once you get the sled working as it was designed to when new you can make small changes one at a time to tailor it to your liking. You will have established a baseline to work from if all is put in tip top stock condition first.
Lynn
 
#4 ·
Yes the shift Kit was in the 670, Basically I was looking for a little input on the clutches and what the peak RPM "should" be. I will be going through the entire sled this spring / summer however I was interested in seeing if there was some basic things to look at / do while I am using it this winter.

On another note the previous two owners of this sled have both told me that the oil pump is "turned up" as to prevent the dreaded spun bearing that all the triples are notorious for. I'm thinking this oil pump adjustment might be the cause of some of the loss of throttle response I am noticing at low rpms. not sure if it would affect peak rpm that much?

Also on another side note, how tight should the track be, I looked in the shop manual but was unable to find anything relating to track tension.

thanks again guys
 
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