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Compression Testing


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#16 Wiexpress

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 10:24 PM

You have a junk gauge, or check the o ring where it threads into cylinder, sometimes those rip a little. I would try and rent a good one from a auto part store, or take it to a shop, they probably won't even charge you.

#17 800PTEK

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 12:54 AM

I agree, sounds like a bad guage.

 

 

My 2007 800R was a pain to start when compression dropped to between 90-100PSI. I doubt you would never have been able to get it even started with that compression, EVEN ONCE.  Also I have never pulled the RAVE covers off when doing a compression test. Even with the valves in the middle (neutral) position my engines have 130-135 PSI of compression @ 2000 feet of elevation.

 

No air box or dirty carbs won't have any effect on the compression. Reeds or exhaust removed from the engine, PROBABLY but I can't see anything else having an impact.


Edited by 800PTEK, 14 November 2016 - 12:55 AM.


#18 smurfy71

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 07:09 AM

When you cleaned the carbs, did you check the float level? If it's not working properly, it's possible you're not getting gas. Fuel pump working? Put some gas in the spark plug holes and then try and start, see if it fires or tries. Start small. But get a known working gauge and check the compression.

Edited by smurfy71, 14 November 2016 - 07:16 AM.

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#19 smurfy71

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 07:13 AM

Oh, and you still haven't told us what sled this is? Helps to know what you're working on.

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#20 Mr. Lee

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 11:42 AM

Oh, and you still haven't told us what sled this is? Helps to know what you're working on.

 

Sorry I thought I said this already. Its a 2007 Ski Doo Summit Adrenaline 800R. 

 

Thanks for the help guys. 



#21 Mr. Lee

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 11:57 AM

When you cleaned the carbs, did you check the float level? If it's not working properly, it's possible you're not getting gas. Fuel pump working? Put some gas in the spark plug holes and then try and start, see if it fires or tries. Start small. But get a known working gauge and check the compression.

 

I did not measure the float level. It did move when I bobbled it with my finger. 

 

How much gas should I poor into the spark plug whole in the engine?

 

I have already sent a text to my neighbor asking to borrow a gauge. 



#22 smurfy71

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 12:22 PM

I did not measure the float level. It did move when I bobbled it with my finger. 

 

How much gas should I poor into the spark plug whole in the engine?

 

I have already sent a text to my neighbor asking to borrow a gauge. 

 

If you didn't remove the float and needle and seat when cleaning the carb, this may be part of your issue.  The needle and seat control the flow of fuel to the carb.

 

Small amount of fuel, tablespoon.


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#23 Mr. Lee

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 12:34 PM

If you didn't remove the float and needle and seat when cleaning the carb, this may be part of your issue.  The needle and seat control the flow of fuel to the carb.

 

Small amount of fuel, tablespoon.

 

Sucks I have t take it apart again. I will try this all tonight. 



#24 smurfy71

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 12:35 PM

Sucks I have t take it apart again. I will try this all tonight. 

Try the gas in the cylinder first.  


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#25 smurfy71

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 02:27 PM

I'm thinking that if you did not remove the needle and seat, you didn't properly clean the carbs.  Here is a good write up on cleaning them, post 4 in this link: http://www.dootalk.c...uretor cleaning


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#26 Mr. Lee

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 03:15 PM

Thanks Smurfy I'm reading it now. 



#27 Mr. Lee

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 12:28 AM

I poured some gas in the cylinder where the spark plug is. After about 4 tablespoons in each, when I pulled the starter cord it was smoother and less effort. After a lot of pulls I heard a loud clank or snap sound. Then for about 30 seconds there was a faint burning smell. 

 

Took the carbs apart again tonight. This time I took and cleaned the needles. Put everything back together. And after a few pulls I heard the same clank or snap sound followed by a quick burning smell. I was too scared I was damaging something and stopped. The snowmobile never started. 

 

PS. 

There was fuel in the carbs. So now I know fuel is at least getting this far. 

I was not able to get another compression tester yet. 


Edited by Mr. Lee, 15 November 2016 - 12:29 AM.


#28 smurfy71

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 07:09 AM

Could you determine where the smell was coming from? I'm starting to think your gauge is correct and you have no compression. It might be time to open it up and have a look inside. I hope you got a really good deal on this sled, for all the effort you are putting into it.

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94 MX 470

 

 

 

 


#29 Mr. Lee

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 11:48 AM

I got the sled for $2000. And I have only paid $1300 until he gets me the title. On Craigslist I have seen the same snowmobile in running condition with asking prices of $3200-$4000. I just hope I don't end up spending $2000 to get her running. I am having fun and learning about new thing. And you guys here have been very patient and helpful. 

 

The burning smell disappeared so quickly I could not trace it. 

 

No compression. Does that mean new pistion, rings, gaskets?  Is this called the top-end?


Edited by Mr. Lee, 15 November 2016 - 11:53 AM.


#30 smurfy71

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 12:20 PM

I got the sled for $2000. And I have only paid $1300 until he gets me the title. On Craigslist I have seen the same snowmobile in running condition with asking prices of $3200-$4000. I just hope I don't end up spending $2000 to get her running. I am having fun and learning about new thing. And you guys here have been very patient and helpful. 

 

The burning smell disappeared so quickly I could not trace it. 

 

No compression. Does that mean new pistion, rings, gaskets?  Is this called the top-end?

 

It's the clunking that you described that concerns me.  Price varies from place to place, I'm in South East Ontario, where you would think sleds are made of gold.  I paid $2000 for mine, thinking it needed a top end.  Found out it needed more, but still spent less than a $1000 to get it going.  Current price on my sled in running condition is around $4000 here.

 

Top End, (pistons, rings and gaskets) will cost you $300 to $400 depending on what pistons you use.  At this point you should drain the coolant, and remove the head to have a look inside.

 

I also sent you a PM with some info.


2004 GSX 600HO SDI

Nun replacement (service bulletin

Shop Manual (ask me for a link)

 

94 MX 470

 

 

 

 





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