Posted 03 January 2007 - 01:17 PM
Posted 03 January 2007 - 03:45 PM
Trust me, your burn down was due to lean jetting. 280 is NOT stock from the factory. When a 440 comes from the factory it has jets so rich that it won't even run....to prevent things like this.
Just curious, how does the sled run when the switch is bumped to the 100 position?
Posted 03 January 2007 - 09:34 PM
And the sled just runs kind of boggy, not all the power is there when it gets switched to 100 octane.
Posted 03 January 2007 - 10:13 PM
It's a sh&%ty feeling I've been there.
Posted 03 January 2007 - 10:27 PM
I did just clean them about a month ago, maybe some crap got in there after i got done cleaning them? Anything else that could be a possibility?
Do you'r reeds have screw holding them to the cage?
Posted 04 January 2007 - 01:10 AM
Posted 04 January 2007 - 05:03 AM
Posted 04 January 2007 - 11:19 AM
I think the post above is probably correct. Your sled had poor compression before it blew up (maybe a stuck ring or worn rings, or worn cylinder) and in order to make it run the jetting had to be brought down. This is very common, but do not rebuild it and start with the same jetting.
As to why one side went before the other, that is hard to answer without looking at the other side. There may have been signs of detonation on the other side too, but before it could implode the other side did. You may also have a bad seal on one side, you may have somthing plugging your main jet on one side, etc, etc.
I once saw an '03 that had a small, clear gas tank shaving on the main jet and you literally could not see it. It took a little digging to find that problem.
Sounds like your switch is correct because bogging is common in the 100+ position. Good luck with your project.
Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:38 PM
Posted 04 January 2007 - 08:34 PM
and also here you can see where a piece of the ring and piston actually broke off, and that got in between the top of the piston, and the dome, and smashed it up. If you look close, those are tiny marks from the pieces being smashed on the top of the piston. Which is why it doesnt have as much in the middle of the piston.
Also there are no signs of detonation on the the other piston, or dome. STILL think it was from detonation? Im not totally trying to prove you wrong, im just telling you what i see.
thanks a lot!
Posted 05 January 2007 - 11:40 AM
Ok, heres the deal: This summer i cleaned my Rave Valves, Carbs, and put a new Cam in my secondary clutch. I live at about 1000 feet, and i have 280, 290 jets in,
Posted 05 January 2007 - 12:36 PM
Posted 08 January 2007 - 04:02 PM
Also, the reason you have more material missing around the edges and not the center is because the edges of the piston is where the compression takes place (the squish band) and in this area is normally the first place detonation happens when you run too low of octane or too lean of jetting or too much timing.
At first the detonation just pits the piston surface (looks like rust pits in steel), then the detonation keeps removing material until the edges start errroding. When this happens the rings lands get so hot the rings fuse into place and become stuck....NOT the other way around. Your rings are stuck BECAUSE of the detonation.
You must find the cause of the detonation and fix this first and foremost.