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Rockerdan's 1200X Build thread---Lots of technical info on the new


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#601 Formula800

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 08:02 PM

Yes

darn, didn't think that needed to be done. Should have asked before I ordered. Just changed chaincase oil. Really don't feel like taking it all apart. How hard is it?

#602 wileo

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 08:14 PM

darn, didn't think that needed to be done. Should have asked before I ordered. Just changed chaincase oil. Really don't feel like taking it all apart. How hard is it?


Don't need to pull the cover just the top rubber plug

#603 jed532

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 09:46 PM

I think if you talk to bill cudney he said 39 mm for clutches works about the best.but my memory isn't the best so u should talk to bill.

#604 rockerdan

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 10:11 PM

Mine is at stock spec of 37mm, still a huge dog leg in belt when run up to speed on stand, 40mm will get it much more in line. I have questioned the specs that are floating around the internet(I posted some) of 37mm for the 1200, since all these specs are older TRA sleds and not new sleds. I just know for a fact my belt does not run straight when run on stand, and all my previous sleds over all these yrs never had a dogleg in belt when running up to top on stand.

 

I just had my Jshaft out, and its a really easy job.  Using a 1/4" drive LONG extension, tapping on end of Jshaft(after removing bolt) under the rubber cap.  It pops the shaft right out. One 13mm nylock nut needs to be removed on the PTO side(behind secondary) which holds the bearing retainer bracket on. 

 

I have dozens of pics from my pb80 install, along with helix install, and E drive removal....hoping to get time to do a nice write up here for everyone this week. PB80 changes the entire sleds character bigtime.

 

Dan


Edited by rockerdan, 07 February 2016 - 11:49 PM.


#605 SKIDOOCHRIS

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 11:13 PM

the SPI shims I got were just under 1mm each

and my sled only needed one out of 4 in the kit


Edited by SKIDOOCHRIS, 07 February 2016 - 11:18 PM.

 
09 1200, (lake racer, outlaw) H&H performance custom drag sled, Precision 5858 turbo, vipec, id2000, nothing stock
09 1200, renegade (pro mod 1000) cat turbo, powderlites header/IC/ intake, Motec, Tapp, ID1000,  DD floating qrs
16 1200, renegade red/white

14 900 ace renegade for wife

14 600 ace renegade for the kids and loaner


#606 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:01 PM

PB80 Version 2 (V2)

 

Got my new PB80 V2, and set it up with a Cvtech spring. I am trying a few different setups here early on, but wanted to start getting some of this info on here, and will post up more details on springs and weight later. 

 

Lots of talk been going on about the pb80, so I wanted to show the V2 PB80 and its "spring guide" and V2 spring and spring cup. After talking with CVtech directly, I was told the V1 springs should not be used in the V2 clutch. The V2 springs are a slightly smaller OD and are made to fit inside the plastic spring guide. I highly recommend to only use the V2 springs for the V2 PB80, and not any other springs. 

 

When buying a new PB80 from Cvtech for a 1200, you will get a PB80 V2 that comes with 10 discs and a 500/1100n CVtech spring installed. CVtech measures their rates in Newtons so this 500/1100n is = to a 112/247 lbs. Use this page to convert Newtons to Lbs force. https://www.google.c... to pound force

 

For those wanting to rev their sled higher, we want something around a 700/1300n or 800/1300n(160/290 or 180/290 lbs) so you will need to order your spring of choice along with the PB80. (I will post more details on my springs later, so do your own homework before ordering a spring)

 

I have made up a chart for myself of CVtech springs/rates/weights below, notice the first part of the part numbers, the V1 begin with 0451, while the V2 begin with 1151.

 

Most spring rates are available in both V1 and V2, however some versions are only available in V1. (IE: 0451-1138). 

 

Dan

 

..........

Attached Images

  • Pb80 springs.jpg
  • pb80 parts.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 09 February 2016 - 09:25 AM.


#607 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:01 PM

PB80 V2 Spring Install

 

First thing is to have a 1-7/16" large socket, to remove the large NUT.

 

..............

Attached Images

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  • IMG_5540c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 07:14 PM.


#608 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:02 PM

You will need a PB80 clutch holding tool.....

 

get it here: http://www.c-tpowers...utchHolder.html

 

 

Now mount it up on a threaded rod clutch compressor and into a vice.... and remove the large nut...

 

Notice the large nut and Hexed washer, they are BI-Directional(can go back on either way)

 

 

.............

Attached Images

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  • IMG_5544c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 07:23 PM.


#609 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:03 PM

With large nut and hex washer off.....

 

I needed to persuade the cover to come off the shaft...Do not pry it,  I held clutch upside down and tapped it on bench a few times on shaft, and the cover came loose.

 

Then put it back upright onto the threader rod, and removed cover....

 

NOTE the line up markings...

 

 

............

Attached Images

  • IMG_5545c.jpg
  • IMG_5547c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 07:37 PM.


#610 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:03 PM

Cover removed...showing the 3 blocks(weights inside) and how they sit....

 

And the backside of cover.

 

...............

Attached Images

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  • IMG_5550c.jpg
  • IMG_5551c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 07:36 PM.


#611 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:15 PM

Backside of block, red cap screws in and holds the silver discs underneath.

 

........

Attached Images

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  • IMG_5559c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 11:06 PM.


#612 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:16 PM

Next removing spring cup....

 

6mm allen socket works well.......install clutch into a compression tool, to hold cup as its under spring pressure once you loosen bolts.

 

..............

Attached Images

  • IMG_5561c.jpg
  • IMG_5564c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 08:03 PM.


#613 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:41 PM

I also made markings on spring cup, so it goes back same spot.

 

Bolts removed, take note of lockwashers.

 

................

Attached Images

  • IMG_5566c.jpg
  • IMG_5567c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 08:03 PM.


#614 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:42 PM

Loosen the compression tool and remove the spring cup.....this is the V2 cup and black plastic guide.

 

........

Attached Images

  • IMG_5568c.jpg
  • IMG_5569c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 08:04 PM.


#615 rockerdan

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:42 PM

V2 spring guide, and V2 spring.....now you can see why the smaller OD of the V2 spring is critical, and must fit nicely inside the new plastic guide on V2.  You can also see how this prevents spring rubbing against alum spring cup.

 

Very nice design from CVtech.

 

...........

Attached Images

  • IMG_5570c.jpg
  • IMG_5572c.jpg

Edited by rockerdan, 08 February 2016 - 08:06 PM.





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