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Rockerdan's 1200X Build thread---Lots of technical info on the new


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#46 rockerdan

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 11:38 PM

Remove the 4 large t40 torx bolts that are holding the caliper bracket to tunnel.  You need to access them thru the slots on rotor.

 

 

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#47 rockerdan

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 11:42 PM

Using Chris's new rotor/caliper removal tool is easy. Much faster then the old tool which I also have and used on my 14 etec.  Both work well  but this is faster.

 

 

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#48 rockerdan

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 11:44 PM

more closeup pics of the brake tool from Chris at c&t....http://www.c-tpowers...xrproducts.html

 

Be sure to hook the tool thru rotor and behind caliper bracket

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 09:19 AM.


#49 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 12:13 AM

A little more on the tool....rotor is off.

 

 

remove the drive shaft, sliding it toward brake side first, out of chaincase,then down and out.

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 12:19 AM.


#50 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 12:23 AM

Track is out.....time to slide in some tunnel protection for the ice attak xt.

 

Kit comes with new rivets and backer washers for the flap reinstall.

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 12:29 AM.


#51 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 12:28 AM

First remove the flap, drill out rivets.  Mine is already off.  you may need to remove bumper to drill out rivets easier.  Next, remove the rear tail light plastic shroud.  There are two very small 7/32 bolts that hold it on, that are bolted from under the back into the plastic shroud.(SEE VIDEO next post)

 

We want the taller section to be as long as possible....so cut the front sections to length, and leave the tallest pieces as is.

 

After measuring, I cut my front sections to 37.5" long for my 129" track model.

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 01:06 AM.


#52 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 12:35 AM

Tunnel protectors,drive shaft closeups and general look underneath tunnel ect.

 

with plastic tail light shroud out of the way, and bumper lowered away from hole cutouts....slide in the longer section first in each slot.   They should be cut to 37.5" for a 129" sled.(see previous post)

 

Next Slide in the taller section last at back end of sled....these should NOT be cut in length.

 

This cut length allows approx 1/2" space at end of channel for "crimping" of the end of slots to keep them from moving around.

 

once tight together, crimp end with a pliers.

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 01:09 AM.


#53 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 01:10 AM

Tunnel protectors....VIDEO

 

Tunnel protectors part 2


Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 06:04 PM.


#54 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 01:10 AM

Tunnel protectors 3

 

 

Just couple shots of rear end underneath, showing small bolts that hold rear plastic shroud on and crimped end to snug up protectors.

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Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 06:22 PM.


#55 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 01:11 AM

Button up the brake side....

 

 

Brake side done, start to button up chaincase side

 


Edited by rockerdan, 19 October 2015 - 06:34 PM.


#56 Craze1cars

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 01:05 PM

Couple shots of the Edrive rollers.

 

Very cool series of photos/videos/detailed info.  For folks like me who haven't seen a XS-ified 1200, I find it extremely interesting to see the all the nitty-gritty differences compared to my XR setup.

 

I feel compelled to clarify for some who may be confused by your photo of the E-drive rollers up in post #10...as clear and round as those look, those are not the rollers you took photos of.  Those are super clear photos of the pivot points/heels of the weights.  The rollers can't be seen in your pics, though they're very nearby and I think I might just see the very edge of one of the rollers in the dark shadows immediately below the weight.  Can't make out their shape.

 

I am very curious what the actual rollers look like, whether they are round or not, but sorry to say I think it will likely take clutch removal and you'll need to knock the governor cup off the clutch in order for you to get a real good photo of them.

 

Enjoy your project and keep all the quality info coming!  Good stuff!


Edited by Craze1cars, 19 October 2015 - 01:16 PM.


#57 izey91

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 01:16 PM

I agree with Craze. It's amazing to have a forum like this for knowledge and know-how, especially when you can't figure things out and when guys like Dan (and Craze and many others) take the time to go through things in detail, document and explain to lesser educated people like myself as to how things work, how to fix and what not. I would have never had the guts to take apart my machine like I did yesterday, because i know there are guys on Dootalk who know a whole lot more and can help when I can't figure something out or I mess things up LOL 

 

Great work Dan. Excited to see the end result.


Edited by izey91, 19 October 2015 - 01:18 PM.


#58 Sublimation

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 02:13 PM

Dan GREAT JOB! Just so you know that deflector dose help. I ran over the top of a fence post on my 2014 1200 and if that deflector was not there, my lower chain case would have been toast along with my tunnel. The case and tunnel still took a beating, the left deflector needed replacing and I had to pound out the lower tunnel with some wood blocks ect... Murphys Law.
Cant wait to watch more. Thanks for documenting your hard work. Loved the info on how to pull the drive shaft.
Cheers!

Edited by Sublimation, 19 October 2015 - 02:18 PM.


#59 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 05:54 PM

New Ice attak XT 1.22'' x 128.7'' x 15''  

 

Camoplast Part# 9236H

 

39 lbs

 

...........

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Edited by rockerdan, 23 October 2015 - 09:06 PM.


#60 rockerdan

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 06:16 PM

Since the chaincase is still open, I decided this was a good time to install HELIX HEX bolts from C&T powersports. 

 

Video- going over the jackshaft removal process

 

 

To install a new helix or helix HEX bolts, we need to remove entire jackshaft w/secondary attached due to the stock TORX bolts which are difficult to get at with standard ratchet and Torx socket. It must slide out of chaincase toward the left side.

 

Pics show the jackshaft bearing behind secondary, and its retainer bracket.   Remove one bolt, don't drop the nut!

 

the other smaller bolt is a loose clamp for brake line, leave this intact and let bracket lay there.(last pic)

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Edited by rockerdan, 20 October 2015 - 12:03 AM.





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