Well, curiosity must have got'n the best of ya! You clicked on this thread so here's what ya get.

Welcome to the shop of the amateur mechanics where gullible dootalkers (such as us) take fellow dootalkers opinions as the gospel truth and immediately apply any and every idea to our new sleds .... just to see what happens next.

[attachmentid=34752]


WHEW!! There's a lot happening on this thread. For a quick reference, here's a table of contents .....

Important tip ...
(to jump to a particular page, you'll see at the top left corner of this page the total number of pages in this thread along with what page you're on - just click the '** pages' box and enter in the page you want to jump to )

Page 1
track holes
riser install
windshield mod

Page 4
'04 Summit rebuild project
foam, clutch panel, sway bar discussion

Page 5
breather tube mod
scratcher install
Dynamo Joes S8X Clutch and Big John's Torquer Kit info (links)
piston ring replacement

Page 6
front shock install
PTO issue
grease fittings
oil pump adjustment
removal of carb heaters
Torquer Kit install

Page 8
Sled cover mod
sled polish

Page 9
Dynamo Joe's S8X Clutch kit install

Page 11
air horn install
Xenon lights install
'05 running board stiffener mod
12v power accessory install

Page 13
steering column adjustment

Page 14
"The New Look"
decal work
air box mod

Page 15
LEFTY Throttle install
Steering column cover mod

Page 16
rail stiffeners - install and discussion for 144"
Stiffener Kits discussion/links

Page 18
helmet light install
Blown 800 HO engine report
helmet cam link

Page 19
various stiffener brace installs & info

Page 21
The Best darn Sled Tow System !!!

Page 22
Oil pump problems & adjustment

Page 23
carb boot delamination problem
Footwell "boot test" & mod

Page 27
Floating Clutch Kit

Page 29
Extrovert Driver for 144" - Discussion & Install

Page 34
home made bunje cord pullers

Page 36
RK Tek piston/head install

Page 38
Floating your clutch - install

Page 46
The Drop and Roll kit mod - a perspectus

Page 47
Make your own Exhaust Spring Removal Tool

Page 50
The Drop and Roll kit - pictures

Page 58 & 63
Oil Delete Mod

Page 64
T-stat Delete & temp gauge install
NASCAR mod - rotating your tach

Page 65
Vent kit install

Page 70
BOSS Seat Install

Page 71
Adding storage bag & gas can to your tunnel

Page 74
Steppin' it up to a 2.5 in paddle!

Page 76
Relocating left thumb console switches

Page 85
BC3 coil spring Torsion Spacer mod

Page 86
Smitty800's Lift kit install
New for '08 from RK Tek

Page 94
Timbersled suspension video
Heated Seat Solution and Install

Page 95
Ski Clamps - a neat idea!

Page 98
Rebuilding the Crankshaft - not as hard as you might think!

Hey, beer supply's get'n low. Restock!!!!

First things first. While your visiting, lets get the shop rules out of the way.

Here, at the ttab mod shop, this is a work-free drink place where no women are allowed. Got it?

[attachmentid=34753]

OK, grab a cold one and lets get going ....

here X-man adds a few holes for good measure ....

we've found that adding 1 1/4" holes @ 2 holes per pitch works great.

[attachmentid=34755]

It is especially important to use a $35 Harbor Freight drill and $.50 hole saw. Hell, if ya look around my shop, you'd think Harbor Freight was my sponsor.

Here's my finished product ....

[attachmentid=34756]


Holes put in and every other clip taken out. I'll post pics of that clip job when we doo X-mans sled.

Being 6' 2", I feel like I'm stooped over my handle bars alot (especially on landings). So I added a 2" riser to my sled.

Problem is my grips are now hang'n up there in the breeze .....

[attachmentid=34758]

I can fix that ....

No need for all that extra windshield. It's Harbor Freight time!!!

Harbor Freight side cutting drill ....$20
Extra drill bit to replace the one that breaks instantly ....$1.25
Three slurps of beer ... $0.15

The look on X-man's face when I destroy a perfeclty good windshield .... Priceless!

[attachmentid=34759]

To make a good symetrical cut, I looped a cord around the center screw in the shield and arced it over the plastic with a marker from the crease on one side to the other. Makes a perfect arc and a good line to cut above. Keep your dremel type tool well above the line to make your initial cut. I used a 4" grinder to finish it off nicely.

X-man thought I was nuts (until it was done of course!). Here's a few shots of the finished product ....

[attachmentid=34760]

I removed a black boarder strip off an old windshield for the finishing touch.

The Full Monty ...

[attachmentid=34762]

You know what the big benefit of this was? I shaved off 10 oz of weight here!

I'm quite happy with the way this one turned out. (translation for our friends to the north .... "looks pretty good, eh?")

I know ..... I know!! Hand shields are on order. More shots to follow as the projects keep roll'n in or the carnage comes home.

Check out that fender sticker!

ttabs

I thought PBR was your sponsor. Great pics ttabs. what photo r u in?

this may be a dumb question, but seeing as i'm on the east coast, and we dont' drill tracks here unless we are studding them, what is the purpose of drilling the holes??? is it just for weight savings, or some other performance benefit???

Reduces rotating mass, along with track clip removal. More importantly, allows much more snow hitchhiking in the skid to get evacuated, so you're hauling much less weight around. Exchangers got to get abit more snow tossed on them, too, out the holes.

wow mang.....beauty shop, nice size.

First post here! A club without chicks on the walls? Ok I"ll join anyway.

Sweet sled stand/workbench! Where do I get one?

Ok, first thing. I want your JOB, so I can afford THAT shop
Second, I want THAT shop, in my garage, then the JOB,
Looks nice dooood, Order that HEAD yet, he's a waitin!
Smitty

Shave another couple pounds off by getting a 6" LED light strip for the back and dump the rack.

I like the windshield. Did the same thing to one last year.

Don't forget to eliminate the black clutch cover and add the SLP prefilter to the side airbox. Also remove the side airbox and put some mat'l over the holes in the backside of it to keep the belt dust out of your carbs.

Have fun....nice pics.

I cut my windshield off on sunday.. Take a can of plastic spray paint and paint the inside of the windshield black. Only the inside. It will look even better. And it's not like your looking through it anyways. Nice work, look's SWEET.

Harbor Freight!!!!!!


Thanks Rev B for the advice. Got it all done except for the tail light thing. I have to keep the rear rack on so I can attach my survival bag to my sled. I've had weird stuff happen to me out there!! Did you see that red RMK in my shop?

You'll never guess where it's been!

[attachmentid=34792]

Don't know why, but, some of the guys think I'm an accident waiting to happen .....

What is the easiest way to get the clips off?

I'll post pics by the weekend. We've got to do X-mans sled.

Thanks ttabs, I would appreciate that. Oh yeah, if you didnt catch it in the klim thread, thanks for the contact info. My klim gear is on its way. I got the jacket, bibs, boots, gloves, nac pac, and gear bag for the same price as the jacket and bibs here in Canada. Guy was great to deal with.

You could just run the 06 "X" setup with the tail light. Still has a rail down the side to attach items....oh wait a minute....I got a better idea yet....I'll be back.


OK I'm back with this.

http://www.cargogear.com/OneItemInfo.aspx?partnum=COTRACK5B

I run this type of product in my trailer on the walls for extra places to hook up tie down straps.


I'm sure there are several places that make/sell it, just found this one quick.

about how much weight did you take off the track by cutting all those holes in it?

A bit of a loaded question. By doing two holes/pitch, the weight removed is not that much - perhaps a lb or so. BUT, the amount of snow that is purged within the carrage while riding is substantially more. That's the big benefit here.

The weight of the clips on the other hand really adds up - maybe about 3 lbs. So, take 3 - 4 lbs of material off a spinning track while improving the flexibility adds more HP from the engine directly to the track. BJ says perhaps as much as 6 to 10 HP gain.

I've seen guys with as many as 6 holes per pitch. Pretty aggressive. But I have not heard of anyone having track failures due to this mod.

Nice job ttabs.
dumb question here....do you sear (melt) the fibers after you drill the holes?
just wondering if it would improve the track life.....?

If you have a drill that spins fast enough, the holesaw will melt the cords as you are drilling the track. I drilled 3 1-1/4" holes per row and didn't have to fix one cord.

Is this something that you would recommend for a NY rider? We don't get that much snow like you guys. I have a renagade. Do you think that it would be worth it?

Thanks
Ryan

What make is your sled hoist and how doo you like it , what don't you like about it?

For "ttabs":

I believe that you were in contact with me earlier looking for some electrical help regarding an air horn install. You were going to come up with a spec on current draw for the compressor - are you still working on that project? Let me know if you still need some assistance.

Ryan - the cost is an hour of your time and a couple of beers - sure I think it's worth it if you get off the beat'n trail much.



Harbor Freight is the make - $300 on sale!
[attachmentid=34895]

and yes it is a great piece of equipment to have. Fairly easy to load a sled on and pump it up. Very sturdy. Goes very well with the I beam hoist I have above it.





OK REV RUNNER - You've got me back on this project again!! I looked all over the shop and do not have any electrical specs for the 12v horn compressor.
[attachmentid=34897]

As you can see, the battery is very small (size YTX4L-BS). Here's what I need help on. I'd like to hook this battery up into the sleds electical sys so that it receives some type of a 12v charge while the sled's powered up. That way it is ready to go when I hit "the call" button. The battery runs the compressor just fine, it's finding a charging source for the battery that I need. Can you help?

These horns are a loud 130 db and are great!!! Picked them up also at Harbor Freight - $18

Order your Harbor Freight "Made in China" Catalog HERE

I'm going to start a cheap tool cult here.

nice job im close to showing off my 2006 x 151 and my man cave. yours is better stocked on drinks but mine has tv for football and bose wave for rock. pictures comming soon as the decals are done, all the anodizing is done and the custom made tail bag is on

[attachmentid=34914]

Here's a 3" pneumatic grinder (Harbor Freight $8) and a few clips I removed. Suspend the back of the sled and back all the way out your track tension bolts. With the track 'slacked' as much as it will go, you'll be able to get this grinder in there to work a diagonal line across the clip. No need to go all the way through. Just start a line and pry off with a couple of large screwdrivers once you have a sufficient stress riser ground in there. Job goes somewhat quickly as you remove only every other one.

"Man Cave"

Hey Guys.
I saw ttabs post about removing some of the track clips this weekend. I am going hunting this weekend and will be doing it next week at ttabs shop. So we will get them posted as soon as it happens...

O.K. "ttabs" - here we go . . .

The electrical connections that you you need to make are fairly straightforward (at least for me . . . ). You will be sourcing the battery charging supply from the headlight relay module. You'll run a positive charging power lead from the relay to an inline fuse, then to your battery positive terminal. The negative terminal of the battery will be grounded to the frame.

The easiest thing for you to do is provide me your address, and I can send you the documentation you'll need to get this accomplished. You can E-mail me your address info. at:

kenupnorth@visi.com

The clips are made from a brittle metal so they will break once they are ground down a bit and then bent.
So, every third clip is a guide clip (tab to the side). What are the thoughts on removing every other and messing up the stagger of the guide clips? Could it be an issue? Just curious
hickster

not suppose to be any issues from what I have read and herd..

Has anyone heard of titanium or aluminum clips for the revs that way it would not change your engagement timing on the extroverts and decrease rotating weight

That is a super clean 02 mtn cat in the pics.

Summit looks good too, lol

i was looking at the pics of your power madd riser and noticed your stearing post looks further forward than mine, just wanted to know if you remounted the post and how hard it was to do, (ie. modifications)?

I did that infact last year. As I recall, it is not too bad to do. I removed the tach and top plastic cover to gain access to that neck bracket.- 4 screws and it was off. I think I had to drill some holes in the neck bracket to bolt the neck into its new postion. Was not too big of a deal.

Did it make a diff? I really never noticed ... so I guess it was a good move.



I've got two late 90's Arctic Cats com'n to the shop tomorrow. I got'em both for $1000. We'll see what kinda shape their in!

Hey ttabs,

When you put your 2" riser on, did all of your cables reach ok? I just put one on my sled and my throttle cable is too short. I have tried running it a few different ways but still no go. Can a guy lengthen it somehow? I couldnt find my trouble light to get in and look real close.

That seems strange djb. You should be able to do it. I put the same 2" riser on without any problem (didnt even re-route any lines or cables). I have read posts from other guys on here who said they did the same thing without any issues. You shouldnt even have to re-route until you go longer than 3 or 4".

There are light weight clips made.......cant remember what company it was that had them. But I do know that the new Maverick track comes with these light weight clips.

Ditto. I had a very little struggle getting that riser to fit. After kinda pulling up on everything, the 2" riser fit and no cables had to be re-routed.

Stay tuned everyone. I've got a track clip job I'm going to post and a Dynamo Joe clutch install I'll post as well. Also, let me know if ya want to see in detail how to trim down a windshield. (May be doing that again too)

Yeah, I looked around in the daylight today and there was no way that things were going to fit the way they were. I ended up re-routing the throttle cable. Looks like it should work fine now.

Maybe the cable was routed wrong originally? I dont know. Maybe my sled was built on a hungover monday morning!

noticed ya still have the half moon in the steering column/pod mount. i removed mine and also cut out the spare gauge areas and put screens over them for hot air evacuation. a hell of a lot of heat comes out those holes. when i park the girl the heat coming out from the eng. comp is wild. just a thought. your garage is awesome by the way

Wow , nice shop!!!
Great ideas also ,I never thought about drilling the track.I'm going to do that for sure.Sounds like you guys will try anything.I'm in the process of putting a turbo off of a PT Cruiser on my 700 mxz thats been longtracked to a 151.I'll have to post pics when we get going on this,still working out the kinks. Great shop and advice keep it up!!!!