What is the trick for mounting a NOS button with a left handle throttle?

i shaved the back of the button till it contoured the lefty bracket on my old yammie...then i used epoxy and glued it in place. actually turned out decent. make sure you scuff the lefty bracket to give the epoxy something to grab on too. it never came loose.



pin it
pin it
pin it
pin it
pin it +100

Joe

X2! Superbump!

Shawn

Again

yup, pin it !!

PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT

Still not pinned? What gives?

bump TTT

PIn IT

I dont get why they wont at least tell us no if that is the way they feel...But at the same time someone should PM a mod if we want this done...

ttt

I really like all the info on this thread. You have to tell me how you get 200+ hp. Is it a turbo? If not, you have to tell me your secret.

" 925HO (triple)"

i thinks thats how he did it.....

a good port job and big-bore from kelsey will get you in the 180 range from an 800....i could only guess what these magicians could pull from an extremely well set up 925....

my next goal....200HP, 400 LBS (after i get the xrs runnin right..ha ha ha)

.5 hp/lb nice

turbo apexes runnin 350hp/600 lbs...

hp/lb....even nicer

the ability to boondock up hills through tight trees on a summit and watch your yamabuddies watch from a treewell.....

priceless





oh yeah...the real reason for this post

TTT and pin-it...

BUMP

200 hp out of a twin 800 HO. That's what I need. Keep us inform

Pin It Pin It Pin It Pin It Pin It Pin It!

Is there a specific Mod that we need to talk to about this thread being pinned?

Gettin' to be dat timea year again when folks start askin' "How do ya do this, that or the other thing??? A lot of these topics are dead horses to most of us on here so you may not always get the instant replies you desire. One of the best posts on this entire site is News from the ttab mod shop.!!!! If you want to do it; chances are it's covered somewhere in this post. (It even has an index!!)
Newbies to dooTalk or just to the Rev mountain forum; Please, please, PLEASE visit this post first and Read It before asking something that is asked every year, 3 million times a year!!! LOL! If ya have questions beyond that, ask away and anyone on this site will gladly help, once ya help yerself!
On clutching questions, see Dynamo Joe's Clucthing tutorial and Read It as well. (A ton of knowledge in both posts for those desiring a Sleducation!)
Once ttabs get's done wit his Elk River Cabin Project, we'll prolly see a few, NEW, PBR inspired mods comin' out da shop!!
This has been a public service message and a long winded way of saying, TTT!!!

Pin it, pin it, pin it, pin it, pin t pint pint pint pintmmmmmmbeer. JUst pin it.

Makes me scared too ask but, How about DPM relocation? LOL
Just bought an 06. Looks tight in there.

Thanks for the pics they sure make it a lot easier for us rookies

any one try this out yet putting a 146x16x2.25 track in a summit 2005 144" and just picking up the slack with some bigger wheels all around im thinking 10" rear wheels and 8" on drop down bracket to really get rolling tention down and keep footprint of the track up, stupid idea or does it sound plausible enough to try it, take pics and post

definately plausible! Try using smittys offset axle with 8" wheels. Also, drop down to a 9 tooth extrovert driver set up for paddle clearance at the front of the tunnel. AND, if your going to do this, I'd suggest using a 19/46 or 19/47 gear ratio for track speed.

You'll definatley want to get rid of those introvert drivers.

If you go with a 9" or 10" bogey wheel set-up, you may run out of track length to stuff back on your skid. I'd have to think about that one a lot more.

Oh yea, you also take up some track slack by shifting your skid back one inch or so by re-drilling your skid attachment bolt holes on the tunnel. You'd see what I mean by clicking here and scrolling down a few pics. You'd very likely get by with your stock bogies.

just thinkin that 10" and 8" wheel looks like it will drop my rolling tension down alot and would be a pretty nice custom look at a lesser price than, i like your idea about the new holes and utilizing the 3rd hole already on the tunnel bracket. but will probably get a drop down bracket anyway for more tunnel clearance. i have the drivers that grab the window and nubs of track i thought those were the good ones not sure on number of teeth though but that shouldnt be to hard to find out. also was probably going to go with the powdermax 146 what do you think do the number of holes cut down on flotation.

Mod Shop is finally getting warmed up for '08

Sorry fellas for lying low here. I've got a full plate and certanly workin' in the mod shop has been long since on my agenda. Sorry abut getting pre-occupied with building a cabin .... er - lodge ..... er - compound. You can read up on that project here. That being almost complete, I''ve enjoyed my first weekend at home in 6 mos.

I've got some good ideas to share with you this year as my sled continues to mutate towards some ultimate goal.

X-Man's got a new XP showin' up here someday and we'll get started on it when it does show up. In the mean time, I'm stickin with the REV this year and let the XP platform work it's bugs out for '08. Besides, I break my sled weekly and parts for the REV are cheap on ebay as well as here on DooTalk. Make sense for a wreak like me to go the cheaper route.

Besides, what do you say we give that XP and everyone else a run for their money this year. Eh? I've got a fantastic idea that will really get up all their craws and I'll share that with you tonight.

So, let get the ball rollin for this year .....

Improving your track suspension in one easy step.

Last Spring, I contacted Bob at BC3 who developed these coil spring spacers for the rear suspension. This idea makes perfect sense to me and I knew I wanted a set for my sled the moment I saw them. He promptly sent me out his kit .... and there they sat until this weekend. Fellas, these things make perfect sense and you've probably seen them flashing on top of the forum here for several weeks now.

Bob's figured these things out and the whole concept here is to insert these polyethylene plugs inside the coil spring to help them work more efficiently. The springs will maintain their shape rather than coil up squewed around the spindle.

How much more efficiently? Expect about 30% improved performance in deep compression. And, if your like me - having a hard time keeping the track on the ground - that's a big plus.



To install is rather easy. You need to drop your rear suspension and to do this - remember the little trick I mentioned about getting those bolts out. Loosen one side first then re-tighten it. Then do the other side and re-tighten it too. Go back and fourth until your able to back both the bolt out at the same time. Once they're out, lift the back end up and you can go right to work. Release the tension on the springs, remove the bogy wheel up there and slide it along with the spring off. Once the shaft is exposed, you'll need to remove this plastic collar. Bob suggests you save it. I don't have the patience for that ....



When you order your spacers, it's very important you let Bob know what the color code is of your spring. I never messed with mine so these stock springs have a green/green code on them. You'll need to see what yours are BEFORE you order. Here's where they're located ...


Next, slide the spacer in, concave end goes towards the inside, and attach the ring. Tighten it in place with an HF allen wrench ....



Re-install the bogy wheel and move on to the other side. That's it. Easy shmeezy and Bob will help ya out with any questions you have.

For more info, click here to check out his post or you can email him directly at BC3@TRIKSLED.COM

I think this product is a winner.

Sweet, Back in the shop!

"Smitty800's" Rear tunnel Lift kit

Smitty's got his little maching shop just hummin' along! He's now producing these rear tunnel lift spacers that will help give your track more clearance running through the tunnel. It'll also give your running boards a little more room above the pow when running in the deep stuff. I'm looking forward to tryin these things out. Makes sense to me.

My first impression was that these things are really stout. It fits over your existing rear support brace and bolts in place. It is rock solid when installed ... and by my pic here, you can see I can give myself about a 1" or 2" lift.



I had to offset my lift one set of holes to accommodate the shift I had to do in installing my 156 track.

AND, if your really nice to Todd, he may suprise you with a little detailed touch ....



There! Now if I ever lose my sled, at least my DooTalk name is cleary visible!!! THANKS SMITTY... it's beautiful! (sniffff )!!!!

Here's the finished posture ...




If your interested in a pair of these things, give Smitty800 a buz. You can find him all over this forum ... he's a lurker!

yay, more shop stuff, what else is on the list of todo..

That sled looks amazing TTabs. Wish mine were setup that well. One thing I did to mine that I think would make your beast look a little sharper is cutting the back of your tunnel straight. I drew a line from the level that the tunnel sits at in the back, straight to the bottom of the tunnel by the running board. It really smartenned up the back end. I know it's different on my 03.5 than it is on the newer ones, but it looks like you could make it work.

The Ultimate "Sleeper" Trick

Well, since I let the cat out of the bag in that last photo, I have to admit - yes I picked up some new plastic for the sled this year off ebay. The panels I took off are only worthy for the dump as when ever I get stuck, I prefer to roll the sled out. That takes its toll on the plastic so replacement was necessary. But, before we go into the looks of a sled, (and thus my 'Sleeper' idea), let's talk a littile about what's new for '08 from RK Tek.

Kelsey, our beloved owner of RK Tek, has now contracted with a German company who is manufacturing for him custom pistons for his Ski-doo kits.

I decided to last spring to go for the upgrade in the power catigory and sent in my jugs to Kelsey for the full 827 bore job. AND, of course I held out for the new pistons.

My kit arrived in October and I got involved installing it when ever free time was available. The pistons look much different than the modded Pro-X's from last year ...



When I checked the ring gaps, they were dead on ....



And, when going with any over bore kit, you'll need to have the RAV valves sent in with the jugs to be adjusted for the larger cylinder/piston ...



Also, Kelsey has a new dome design that is so top secret, I had to promise Kelsey I wouldn't take a pic of them. So, if ya want to see what the new hype is for the RK Tek kit this year, you'll just have to pay to play!!



So, if your thinking of the drop in kit, go back and read my initial post here on page 36 or visit Kelsey's website here if you want to really add substantial power to your sled.



SOOOOO now you know my little HP secret. But, to share with you my 'sleeper' idea that will get all the unsuspecting guys out there with the big ego's enough to get frustrated about, here is my thought.

I buy this new plastic on ebay .... and I get everything - panels, hood, bumper, everything. Looks pretty good eh?



What if I installed this hood, but didn't say anything to all the big heads out there about what was under the hood?



This is going to be one hell of a 600 SDI that I'm riding!!!!!! It's going to be a fun year !!!!!


Coming up ....

ARE ANY OF YOU OUT THERE STILL RIDING AROUND WITH ALL THOSE 'WARNING STICKERS' ON YOUR SLED? (thats like wearing floods with white socks to the prom)

(As Gomer Pile would say ...)
SHAME SHAME SHAME SHAME SHAME SHAME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WE'LL ADDRESS THAT PROBLEM NEXT!

great ta see the shop opened up for business again!!

TTabs how does the sled feel with that lift on the back is it a bit awkward in a sence that youll have a bit more angle forcing you to lean to the front when not riding powder

I haven't had it on the snow yet but the reports I'm getting is it'll help keep the nose down when hammering the throttle. When I stood on the sled, I did not feel any indication that I was leaning more forward. I'll report back on that post my expeirince after I've given it a good test run.

hi i noticed in one of your pics on this page that you have the inner wheel kit and holes drilled in your track. i just got the inner whell kit and would like to port my track but was wondering if it is alright to have the wheels roll over the ports? do yours roll over, or are the ports to the inside of the wheels. thanks

Ttabs: Sled sure looks different than when I came over.
I bought a new lap top so I'd leave the sled alone. Now I think I need some torison spacers.
I'll have to stop by again since I'm in the 'hood'.
Kids sled ran like crap around the back yard, "Hum 300 Rotax single in a Yamaha Inviter???"
That'd give her some poop!
Keep me informed on the 'Shop Hours'
John

I drilled 1 1/4" holes and kept them to the inside of the wheels. No conflict with the inner wheels.



Yea, especially when the engine was half hangin' out and the sled was half gutted. What a big diff a little plastic makes, eh?

Heck John - The Mod Shop is open 24/7! Come on over any time.

Hey,
Need that address PAL!!!!

[quote name='ttabs' date='Dec 2 2007, 11:58 PM' post='1463204']
The Ultimate "Sleeper" Trick

Also, Kelsey has a new dome design that is so top secret, I had to promise Kelsey I wouldn't take a pic of them. So, if ya want to see what the new hype is for the RK Tek kit this year, you'll just have to pay to play!!



So would my new rk tek head that I bought the end of September have this new top secret design? Just thought id check.

Good question. I'm not sure if Kelsey is using the new dome design for both his new pistons and OEM pistons. Try emailing him or calling him.

Getting rid of that geeky 'New Look' .....


So, you get your new sled and you've read all the legal warning stickers that are stuck everywhere. You've even went riding a few times with those stickers clinging everywhere on your sled. But at some point, towards the end of your honeymoon, if you haven't already, you're going to realize those darn things have got to go. Now what?



I'm glad those sticker guys don't build out-houses. Now that'd be a good read.

The first thing you need is a good heat gun (or hair dryer). Simply heat up that decal .....



And peel that sucker off in one fel swoop!



You'll find a little sticky residue may be left behind. You can use just about anything from white gas to break cleaner to this stuff .....



That'll take the remaining adhesive off and leave your sled looking a lot more professional .....



So, if your still running around with all them stickers on, get out there in the shop and 'get-r-done' (see - no stickers on that icon there)

I got some NEW warning stickers on order:) Got to be safe:)

i pealed all the decals off within the first week I got mys sled i just used a blow dryer it didn't heat them up so quick that they tore on me and came off really easy, my buddys rev took longer and got the fingers a little warmer with the heat gun because they kept tearing. both methods worked with the same end effect.

A heat gun does work but I have found that rags soaked in boiling water layed over the decal works much better then a little wd40 to clean any residue glue off. I have used this method on all my motorcycles.
Just my $.02
David

ttabs, you're crazy...I mean it, you really are.
keep up the good work man, this thread rocks

ttabs if u have a few minutes...

I have a Summit 800R 07 with 600 mi on it. At 2000-4000 feets runs perfect at about 8100-8250 RPMs with my clickers on 3. I get to about 4000 ft and i loose lots of power and loose top RPM. and i have to crack the throttle to restart. (only at 4000 and above) I have had all clutch updates done as well as the Rave system checked. The machine has VForce3 three reeds and can. Machine had this trouble before the reeds and can. I dont get any trouble codes or anything just runs like crap above 4000 ft. any info would be much appreciated. thanks. lawrence

lawrence, you touched on everything but the most important. JETTING, need to know what you have and what you have changed...

it has the stock jets in it. the plugs look red brown . but i get only 7400 RPM at 5000 as opposed to 81 or higher at 1500. please let me know if i should re jet. and if so what should i do. thanks im real new to all this but i appreciate any help i can get.

I also upgraded to the 827 this spring (wish I would of held out for the new stuff!) and finally got it on the snow the past couple days tuning and tweekin'. This motor flat gets and go's!!!!!!!!!! I am still running a bit rich which I think is keeping me from reaching the 8400-8500 RPM mark. I should know more in a few hours. But if it runs this strong rich I can't wait to get her dialed in! Also got Joeys clutch kit with supurb back shift!

Oh BTW no warning stickers, I should add one that says "Caution operation of this snowmobile could cause season long ear to ear grin and longer arms"

Can't go wrong with RKT!

Later

Quick question TTABS, Say I have a 121-144 Rail Extension and a 121-144 Tunnel Extension, What size wheel would I need to run if I wanted to use a 151" track (If Its possible)

ttt