Hey guys...

I installed my domes today and they were quite straightforward and easy...I figured i would take some pics and show how i did them step by step,incase anyone here on dootalk wants to do these but wasnt too sure how hard or what tools are needed...you can save yourself some money and time by checking this first..hope this helps anyone who wants to install any domes...BTW my sled has alot of parts off it so it made it somewhat easier for me,but most of you will only need to open or remove the left and right sides to do this job...

Dan

Step 1:Drain Anti-freeze

There are probably 2 ways to do this,one is to syphon from the coolant tank to get level below the head height,another is to drain it from the drain plug under sled....I chose the drain plug method...

first i jacked up front end of sled,carefully using a car jack with a 2x4 block of wood....

You can also drain the bottle to do this. Get the coolant level lower than the head and you are good to go.

next...removal of plug underneath sled,near center there is a rubber plug that pops out...remove this by pushing it inward to bellypan,then pull it outward ....


here is the rubber plug hole after removed from left side view..



then use a 6mm allen wrench to remove the allen bolt plug,I used a allen wrench socket on a long extension on a rachet....

get a short CLEAN bucket ready for the anti-freeze to go into....some will splash out so have a towel handy...also be careful not to loose the brass washer on the allen bolt.

using a clean bucket will allow you to reuse your anti-freeze mixture.



Now drain into the bucket....towel handy!



Now back to the the head.....

1-Remove the Knock sensor using a T40 torx or 10mm socket.
2-Remove the 2 coolant hose(cap)bolts with a 10mm socket.
3-Remove 12 headbolts using a T50 torx or 13mm socket.



you can Now unplug the wire plugged into the right side(muffler side) of head...Unplug it from above,where it plugs into sled.

Now you should have all bolts,plugs and caps removed...and ready for head removal..



Now simply pull head out,you will have some anti-freeze come out of head cavity...so a towel may be in order here....

shown here is stock head/domes upside down...



here is another of block with head removed...be sure your outer 'O' ring and 2 cylinder 'O' rings are intact and sitting in grooves still..

darn those are some seriously huge pistons!...now i see where the name "torqemonster" comes from!



Ok,now turn the head over so TOP of head is up and hold head up off the bench so domes can come out bottom,hold your hand underneath to catch....push the stock domes out of head by tapping around where the spark plug goes in with a socket ,i was able to just push mine out easily with the socket...they will pop out easily.. It also states in the shop manual not to pound on the domes. They should push right out with your thumb or something. Don't beat on em!

here they are comparing cudneys to stock..stock on right.



Now you want to remove the small 'O'rings around the area of stock domes where spark plug goes into...

using a very small screwdriver,i slipped them off easily,be careful not to use anything sharp so as not to cut into the rubber..


Now install those 'O' rings onto the new domes...you can apply some vaseline if you like,but mine still had some on them....careful not to break them,they do stretch quite well though..

next step is to slide the domes back into the head....line up the bolts holes pattern and pop them in,being careful so the "O'rings at spark plug area slide in ,and not pinch them or break them....use vaseline here to help aid in sliding the domes back into head.

it should look like this when done.....



Now reinstall head onto block,position the head onto block and start installing headbolts by hand...tighten them by hand several turns each to get head into perfect alignment....

now start to tighten in a fashion working from inside of head(middle of cyls) to outside of head...tightening them alittle at a time each..

the 12 cylinder head bolts get torqued to 11 ft. lbs each,then after all torqued to 11 lbs you add an additional 45 degrees of a turn to each bolt(90 degrees being = to 15 minutes on clock,so half of that)

EDIT by Dan: total of 28-30ft lbs.



Now reinstall the 2 coolant hose cap bolts and also the knock sensor bolt.


-coolant cap bolts torque to 80 INCH lbs
-knock sensor bolt torque to 15 ft. lbs



Now plug on the wire from head, replace spark plugs and install allen bolt plug into bottom of waterpump under sled...

then install rubber plug into bottom of sled...

then refill the coolant you removed....

that should be it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is a pic of my stock dome beside a cudney dome,sure looks rich,plugs are nice and tan now with Bills domes.

Dan, this is a great post!

Thank you!!!
Even a dummy like me had no problem following it!

Here's what 2200 mile domes on synthetic oil, decomps plugged and BR8s look like:

[attachmentid=34224]

My cudney domes do not look anything like those. Whats up with that. Mine look more like the stockers but smaller chambers. I wounder if he has two different styles. Anyone else notice this?

I believe Bill has changed to a new,large chamber, narrow squish design.You would have to check with him to make sure though.I run his early desigh and they work awsome with my porting and clutching.But the newer design runs a bit better in the higher rpms so I've heard .In our lake testing (motorbreaker and I)last year Bikeman and Cudney's first design domes performed very much the same in our side by side testing running aprox 1000 ft.

Currently Bill's domes look like this:

[attachmentid=35340]
from the top side

And from the bottom:



[attachmentid=35341]

I wrote and asked Bill about this:

Curious minds are wondering about the Mach domes from your web site picture, and the ones you are shipping this year. Why do they appear different? At least mine are different.

Bill replied:

The domes have changed especially the outer rings to dissapate the internal temp better in to the antifreeze quicker. The squish area has also changed to increase the efficency, the 2 domes make the exact same power though.

Either way, the products should work as designed.

The stock domes are 12 to 1 ratio and our domes are 13 to 1 ratio, 91 octane is more than effcient for these domes. -- Bill

Here is pics of original Cudney domes.