Hey guys, I'm gonna be going up against an 00 mxz 700 as well as a 2003. Will I be able to take them draggin/trial stock. Or do I have to make some mods to this thing to compete? Mikadoo mentioned to me I may want to look into gearing. If I don't have to change anything I'd rather not this year, but If I need to change the gears that's easy for me. I'm not very experienced with clutching..so I'm unsure about that. I was also looking at putting the carbon tech reeds on....foir 130$ theyr supposed to give a 3 HP midrange increase?


Any help guys so I can show up the twins? thanks

I don't think you'll have too much of a problem howing the twins whats up, but I'm no drag expert, so i could be wrong. A correctly clutched sled for a specific purpose will obviously beat it's own kind in a race. There are plenty of guys that can help you out with the clutching part. Use the search feature, you should see plenty of topics.

Bob

You'll have no problem at all beating up on a 700 twin.
My 98 mach 1 would pull slightly on my buddies 2002 MXZ X 800 top end.

Oh and don't bother with the carbon tech reads, I have them on my 98 and really didn't notice a difference at all other than possibly slightly harder on fuel.

The one sled has the vforce 3's on it, is it really worth putting these on, or boyeson's rage cage...I mean is there anything noticeable about it besides better throttle response? any hp gains?

I put V Force 3's on my Mach Z last season but also put in a thicker base gasket and cut the head at the same time so I couldn't say if the reads alone actually give you any additional HP. A friend of mine put the rage cage on his otherwise stock 800 twin and noticed a snappier throttle..More HP??? I really don't know.
The adds will have you believe so but without dyno testing before and after, I don't believe you can tell from the seat of your pants.

If you were to do anything with a few bucks, I would pick up an adjustable set of pin weights and add a few grams over stock, that without a doubt will give you the best bang for the buck.

You can doo things for free to make your sled a better drag racer. 1st thing is TEST, TEST, TEST. You can change the rate on your secondary spring, tighter or looser and see which way it likes it for draggin. You can lower your TRA adjusters just 1 and while it'll "feel" slow you might be shocked at how easy you gain a sled length. Back out the ACM in the rear suspension just enough to "hover" the skis off the snow, not so much your dangling the skis sky high. While the big wheelies look good all that time spent rolling back is enough to let em get out on ya. They're lighter sleds and believe it, moving forward even with a bit of spin is better than the 1st 1/2 second wasted raising the front end. Just a few thoughts...

What doo u mean when ur talking about the rear suspension. I'm 175 lbs, how should the skid be set up ??? any elaborations will not hurt..haha..first sled thanks

What is adding pin weight in primary gonna do for you ?? just wondering?? this will lower peak rpm ? no ?? thus less top end??

iuno....all i know boys, it that u guys need to help make sure that I don't let the trips down this winter, aha....I'll do my best for the rider part...I just need to know whether or not I can do it with this machine vs the mxz...... next year I wanna pipe it for sure....I cant wait for snow to sho what the trip can do!!

The 700 twin is a strong runner but a gear change and a couple of gm. of pin weight will show him nothing but triple flap and the crack of your "edit for bad language".
Forget pipes unless your looking for big top end and then its only another 5 mph.

x2 if your just concerned about beating an MXZ 700 but if you want to go faster triple pipes will also give you a stronger midrange.

Ok, so..if I just decided to change the gears would this still give me some help? I'm not really into clutching, a little unsure about it? but I kno i could easily change the top gear if needed? and which one should i get if so?>

Most people drop the top sprocket one or two teeth ... it depends on the length of the drag race. Before you change anything in your clutching you should establish a baseline ... are your clutches fully shifting out with what's in there now? Are you loading the motor enough and how hot is each clutch running? If your current clutching is out to lunch than changing your gearing is not the answer. I'm not sure how well the 99's were set up but the 98 FIII 7's didn't come clutched very well out of the box. When a buddy got his his another buddies stock 96 FIII 600 was layin' a lickin' on it but once he added more pin weight and dialed in the rest of his setup that stock 600 was no longer a problem.

v force 3s are much better in a ported and piped motor. had them in when it was stock couldent even tell i changed anything. as far as that race your brewing up traction and a little cluching you can just wave bye bye to him. if you said you weighed like 275-300 lbs then i would say a gear change would benefit you. going down 1 or 2 teeth on top gets you on the power faster and gets a heavy set up moving easier and quicker.

Adding pin weight puts more shift force on the belt and will change the rate or time that the primary reaches 1:1. Yes it can lower RPM so an adjustment in the form of the TRA clickers or a bit more spring will bring RPM back to peak. This is a general description and in reality is bit more complicated.

Is there any way one of u guys have or could send me a picture of what ur talking about with these tips? I weigh 175lbs, I can change stuff around in the clutch with a little guidance and if someone knows part numbers of what I need to purchase to help me out...I'm kinda unsure about how to acquire this stuff and whats the best and cheapest way? Any help or elaborations would be awesome...im very new to tinkerin with clutches...thanks alot guys

I think you will know what you need to do when you get it out and ride it. Get a feel for it. Your light weight on that sled should be all you want. If anything more traction will need to be added. If this is your first tripple, It takes more "edit for bad language" to throw it around so in the trails get some practice by yourself before running w/ the pack. Set your front stiff for the mogels, and keep your limmiter strap tight for ski pressure.
Be carefull, like I said thats alot of weight for a guy your size.
I could give you alot of mod ideas but you dont seem to fermiliar with this machine yet.So maybe later.
Mark

700 twins can be fast if they are set up just like your sled ,stock for stock could be a toss in a drag but in a long run the tripple should go by,i have seen 700 twins get beat by good running 600's and seen good running 700 twins beat 800's i know mine did

What are you running for studs?? There is much to be gained in just tuning your clutching and suspension (as others have said). No matter how well you dial in your clutching or spend on pipes and other mods, it wont help you out much if you cant put that power to the ground. Digging trenches out of the hole doesnt win drag races..................

Just lookin for opinions, but where would u set ur shock settings at the front at, and as for the back, i have no idea about the holes, what or where wuld u set urs at, elaborate pls!!!!..hah, thanks guys

If your just concerned about beating a stock MXZ700 all you should have to do is make sure your ACM nut is backed all the way off for full weight transfer (you want to leave one thread showing or you can even remove the nut but you'll have a hard time steering if you do). Other things you can do are put your torsion spring blocks on the lowest setting and stiffen up the front shock in the rear skid to keep weight off the skis. If your talking a dedicated drag sled then there's all kinds of other things that can be done. In your case because you have an FIII you may want to soften the front springs so the front sits lower but you have to watch how soft you make it because if it hooks and you have to let off the front can come down pretty hard.

just pray kelch...thats all u an do....its a twin world now hahahaha

I agree with the weight factor. Before gear, I only weigh 170. That 780 can really take me for a ride sometimes if it doesn't like going the way i want it to. Is this going to be a trail and drag sled, or just a dedicated drag sled? I'm sure that could help answer some of your questions also.

Bob

Likely jusy a trail sled guys, maybde a bit of messin around too

It's been made very clear that you're in a new world here. Ima give ya real good advice. ANYTHING YOU WANT TO CHANGE ON THAT SLED FOR A DRAG RACE CAN BE DONE IN THE SNOW WITH THE TOOL KIT UNDER THE HOOD. I figured if I did the caps thing you'd hear it. Look at your belt guard under the hood. There's suspension settings on it for your weight and trail conditions. Did you get an owner's manual? There's minor clutch adjustments that can be done EXTERNALLY printed in there. See your local dealer for that or a service manual. Once in hand (usually less than a week) you, the book, the sled and a milk crate. Get to know it. Don't change a thing until you've put a hundred miles on it or you might not be able to tell if you're helping. What did you ride before? Figure you, the sled, fuel, you got some weight your pushing around out there and that sick feeling of "not enough brake" will sting you faster than a psssed off rattle snake. All the more reason to get aquainted with this thing and get grip on life with a triple.

I say, WELL PUT!!!

twin this twin that triples # 1 choice for drag racing. unless your into turbocharged yamis.

What are you racing on and how far? Snow drag for 500 feet? Or whipping thru the trails?

To much weight transfer and you waste time lifting the skis way up. It's fun, don't get me wrong, but softening the back up that much and backing off or removing the ACM nut will waste power looking cool. Get it to hook good with minimal spin while trying to keep the skis low.

What are you racing on and how far? Snow drag for 500 feet? Or whipping thru the trails?

im pretty sure hes drag racing. if its a trail race he can almost forget about it. my 670ho will give a mach1 a good race up to a 100 then its over for me.

Mainly a trail sled. He's looking for the most balls to the walls it appears. Then again, what triple owner wouldn't be??

Bob

It dont matter how much power you got/clutch setup aything. If your tracks spinning everything you just did is out the window. Traction control my friends. ITs key, better hope that tripple of urs hooks up hahaha

very true traction and suspention is important. BUT ive seen some power sleds that spun quite a bit when they finally do bite they will reel you right in and quick. thats what im going to do to my buddy that weighs 120 lbs more than me on his rx1

Haha, I will be mainly riding trails, but when me and the twin...the guy who posted in front of me go heads up itl be in a drag... I don't have a manual....I'lll try to acquire one. I rode a 87 srx 44 last year..... can u see why I'd like to switch it up to the skidoo? haha



Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Yup ... with the power the triples have if you don't know how to feather the throttle off the line your going to get the rug pulled out from underneath you. The good thing is though you never seem to have a problem reeling back in a twin unless it's got more hp than you (in other words it has mods or more cc's). A buddy had a 98 FIII7 and let another friend who normally drove a 440 XCR drag race his nephew on my old mono-block XCR600 and my XCR was layin' a lickin' on it off the line ... I couldn't believe my eyes as he had his FIII dialed in really good. After about 4 or 5 beatings the owner couldn't take it any more and said gimme' that thing ... with him on it my XCR wasn't in the race for long!

i actually get a sick thrill when they get me out of the hole and in there mind they think there going to win . then that black streak goes by. BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP

Exactly! ... and expect to loose a few drags until you get the sled figured out and things adjusted how they should be for your weight and preference. The first thing to know about drag racing is make sure your rpms are just below engagement before it's time to go ... a sled coming off idle is several lengths slower than one that is about to take off as soon as more throttle is applied .

Save up your pennies, and look for a set of Mach 1 pipes, and jetting with rave springs.. Then you'll be trashing on zx chassis 800's. That's what I did with mine, and I run with a friend that has a very well set up 2002 800, with studs, similar driver weight, and I consistently beat him in a snow drag. I have a 1" track, and no studs.. He has a 1.25 ripsaw.. I usually feather the throttle on the jump a little, instead of wadding into it, equaling spin.. After 60 feet, hose clamp it! This usually gives me a 2 to 3 sled advantage out of the hole, and he can't figure it out.. By then, It's all over but the cryin.. FYI, 700 mxz's will run right next to the 800 til bout 80 or so, so be prepared for a good run.. You need to hook as well as possible.. I would stud it, just watch out for bulkhead clearance..

Same thing can be done with your single pipe, just clutch and gear it right.

The 800zx is nothing more than a shinny boat anchor. I was beating my neighbors modded 800 w/ my stock 2000zr 440 last year in a half mile run. At least 15 times in a row, untill he took it home and put it away.