Too all those who have contacted me about my QRS shim Kits.

Price as follows:

45.00 ea shipped to the lower 48

55.00ea shipped to Canada and Alaska via USPS Priority Mail

Canadian customers can also contact Bill @ Cudney Racing. He has kits in stock

Big John @ Sled Head Racing also keeps kits on hand.

Payment by Paypal is prefered and should be sent to: dynamicrecovery@comcast.net

Paypal can be used even if you do not have an account.

Any questions feel free to PM me.

Thanks
Mike

a must have, I just installed the kit in Keith's sled and the belt (offset) looks great.

thanks Mike!!!

Hi rev-man,

I was reading the instructions to install my second QRS shim kit, and I realized that I had misinterpreted the instructions on measuring the existing Y-X offset. When I thought about it more, I then realized that no matter what shim I use, the Y-X will not change. (I did not measure the Y-X after installing the first set of shims.)

I can see that installing the shim kit will change alignment, and maybe improve it, but it cannot change the Y-X value. I made the attached SketchUp drawing to demonstrate the issue. To explain the drawing, the upper part shows the inner sheaves of the primary and secondary, with the straight bar parallel with the face of the secondary where it gets clamped. I exagerated the angle of the primary so that it is obvious, and picked one-inch as the X value to make the math obvious. The lower drawing is the same, with an exagerated one-inch increase in offset to simulate use of the QRS shim kit. You can see that the Y-X for both before and after the QRS shim kit is 0.872" - NO CHANGE IN Y-X.

Like I said, I understand that the QRS Shim Kit does change that allignment, but think that some other method of picking which shim to install would be more meaningful.

Please let me know if I got this wrong somehow, and add any comments on an alternate shim-selection method if you think it's valuable.

BTW, does anyone have suggestions on how to actually measure the Y value with the XP clutch configuration? The bar and the rear edge of the primary clutch are hidden from view, in close quarters to the rear, and access is blocked by the lip in the belly pan. I've got a fairly complete shop, and cannot think of any tool or method to get that Y measurement.

Thanks for any insight or suggestions anyone has to offer.

Are you using the new 2009 XP alignment bar, the one with the cut-out notch in it for the primary shaft? If not then you're not getting the correct measurements.

I've got a small caliper - about 5" long that works real well for getting that measurement.

You are correct. The shim kit does not have effect on the y-x measurement. When I developed the kit I measured just how much the engine "Twists" I determined the y-x measurement is not overly critical with the XP chassis. The way the engine is mounted (Mounts being so high up on the engine case) do not allow the engine to twist like is past chassis.

In the instructions it says how to measure the y. Place a flat piece of material between the rung gear and the back of the primary and hold it firmly against the primary, then use the "but" end if the calipers to measure.

Thanks Irondog,

I did not know that there was a cutout bar. I've been using the BRP 1/2" bar from 2007 and the anti-sway bar. I'll get a short caliper and that bar.

I knew that the straight bar could not reach the full diameter of the primary, and when thinking about that, it came to me that offsetting the secondary would have no way of changing the Y-minus-X measurement because the shim changes both Y and X by the same abount. That said, I cannot understand how you can base shim selection on Y-X.

Did my explanation and drawings of why offset can't change Y-X make sense?

I do understand that adding shims changes alignment, and that the DooDoctor float mod is like automatic, variable, and perfect shims. The problem I have now, is that I don't want to miss riding (although there is not yet enough snow) while I have that float done.

I got the shim kits from Big John at Hay Days, and I think he had an alternate method for picking which shim to use, but when I went to install the first one, I could not remember what BJ said, and used the instructions. I realized I had got that wrong and now hope to regain instructions an alternate and meaningful shim-selection method.

Rev-man,

Thanks, at least I'm not way off regarding Y-X not changing. So, although I do not see it in the set of instructions that I'm looking at, "Ski-Doo XP QRS Shim Package Instructions", I take it that the only measurement that matters is the X value and the 3/8" that you list in those instructions. I won't list that value here, because that's a value you found with plenty of trial and error.

BTW, the instructions I have do NOT give a method for measuring Y, they show two small photos and what appear to be BRP instructions. they make no mention of what surface to reference on the back of the primary. I probably have a set of old instructions.

Am I correct that the shim should be selected to bring X as close as possible to the value you list?

Again, thanks for the fast response, and happy turkey day,
MoPow

Hey MoPow,

You must have gotten some of the older instruction sheets as I print them 250 at a time. They are changing all the time as users make suggestions.

Get the X as close to possible to the given specs. With all else being equal, you WILL see much improved belt life.

Bar thickness does not matter. 1/2" -3/8"- 7/16" makes no difference.

Sorry for the confusion

Mike

Here's the new alignment bar, P/N 129-036-157. It has the measurement points pre-marked on the bar for the X & Y measurements. And the small caliper I use for taking the Y measurement. My X/Y measurement difference is exactly 3mm.

Iron Dog, how does the BRP specs work for you? I believe Billy Howard checked my alignment last year with the tool that you are showing and my specs were right on. Then I ripped the chords out of a 383 in about 40 or 50 miles. I'm just curious if anyone is having any success with the BRP specs. Of course this would mean riding aggressively. My belts held up fine when I babied it, but when WFO in deep snow or drag racing I think my chords would pretty much start fraying instantly.

I've installed the shim kit at the end of last season, but never got a chance to try it. Hoping for some snow soon to give it a try.

Thanks.

Just installed the kit, and it when in faster than i thought! great kit rev man! i can allready tell that the spec rev man gave is bang on. before when i looked down the secondary to the primary i could see the belt bent left. my x was at a little less than 37 mill. now its straight as an arrow!
Thanks man

BRP's specs are off by 3mm IMO - as well as most other people who have shimmed their secondary out to get 38.5 -40.5mm of X measurement.

Now add non-solid rear motor mounts, which are breaking on the rear PTO side, and you've got a lot of movement by the motor as well as the secondary tower. Doing things like filling the void between the cup and rubber mount with epoxy and adding a tower brace will help.

Mine was about same... Move the engine to, after that i got Y = 40mm , X = 41mm Z= 18mm . Lost Z abit, but i dont care if i lose some top speed i dont want mine to eat more belts.

glad i am one of the lucky ones who just have to shim the secondary. as i was taking the measurements i was praying that my motor was in the right spot checked the x on the other xp i ride with and he is at 36. the entire engine compartment is covered in belt dust