Went out for the first ride today. went up the Torpy for those of you know the Prince George area. elevation is about 6500, there was 8' of snow with 3' fresh powder on a decent base.
I installed a Cudney mountain clutch and set everything to his recommended specs. but my sled was bogging out really bad. by about lunch time it was settling down so it might have been a lil gummy in the carbs. but I think i need to adjust the weight in my primary. I had to run at clicker 6 to get the sled to really climb anything substantial. I couldn't really see where I was for track speed but it was around 65MPH (I think) and 8200 RPM according to the digital display that I know isn't to accurate. I marked the clutches with a sharpy and the primary was riding to about 1.5" shy of the top. Now I'm not a clutch Guru but I think I am a lil shy of primary weight.?????, And a big thanks to Irondog, and everyone else who gave me some fantastic advise on suspension set up as my sled was a night and day difference for laying it over and maneuverability. I actually quite enjoy riding it now. only just have to properly learn the balance point now.

if you r having to use clicker position 6 to get the proper rpms for the sled to run decent and climb decent you need less pin weight or a stiffer spring. Your secondary spring may also be fatiqued and may need freshed up. more pin weight will likely make things worse.

Check the exhaust, have had several customer sleds that wont rev properly and most of them had a huge dent in the exhaust.

X2

Here's a good post by the "teacher" that explains and illustrates the effect of springs and ramp angles. You might want to give your carbs a quick cleaning and a fresh set of plugs before you start chasing clutching though, as you said - that might be the cause of your bogging issue if you had gummed up carbs. How did your plugs look? Wet, black, dry, brown, gummy?

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?sh...c=340519&hl=

The bogging seemed to get better eventually. the plugs looked great nice tan color. no dents in the exhaust. as I adjusted my clickers to a decreased numerical value the sled really seemed to struggle more. I talked to bill and he thinks I should pull pin weight. but that doesnt make sense to me. correct me if im wrong (and prob am) the belt should ride up farther than and inch and a half from the top of the primary? and If I increase my pin weight it would push the belt higher? how exactly does this clicker system work? is position one less weight compared to position 6. Im at 6 now and seems like I neied to go to a virtual 7 or 8 if there was a position of such. so would that mean more or less primary weight? Im still learning the details of clutch tuning and think I need to know how that works first.

Just read the post that ID attached. quite informative but Im still confused as what the relation to primary weight is.

Don't try to clutch to get the belt up higher in the primary. That has to be done by gearing. If your rpms are correct at 8200 and you are in click 6, Bill is correct you need to take some weight out of the pins (or stiffer spring (s) ) Too many people think the clutch should shift out but think about what would happen if you added pin weight to force the primary closed. You will make the engine work harder at lower rpm and the clutch will indeed run more closed but you will never achieve the 8200 rpm you need to hit the engines max power cause the engine does not have enough power to get you there. Think of it like a bicycle. If you are pedalling along with your max power and strength and you shift the drive sprocket (front one like your primary) into a bigger chain ring, your cadence or rpms will drop cause you don't have the strength to keep your rpms up in that big of a gear. Now you aren't pedaling where you have your max power output any more and you actually lose ground speed even though you have shifted into a higher gear. Max clutch effieciency happens close to a 1:1 shift ratio which is nearly shifted out on the primary so you are correct in trying to get the belt higher in the primary but you do that by gearing down in the chaincase. Just remember if you also want to go fast on the trails where there is a lot less resistance, don't gear down too low or you will shift out fully in the clutches and your engine will over rev cause it has more than enough power to push the sled at that speed at 8200.

Hope that makes sense
Nelly

If you're getting 65 mph trackspeed....don't F with it....you're 15-20mph higher than anyone else.....

Dave b I think he means top speed. You should clean your carbs and inspect the bushings in your primary.

Topic - Gearing and lack of full shift article.
Explains why you see belt not going to the top.
The only way belt will go to the top of the primary is when the sled is going fast enough that you see full shift overdrive - how many mph is that? You use the gearing calculator to tell you.