I've been pretty busy these last couple months and haven't had time to rip any of my "new" Alpines apart. Last week we got snow! Up to a foot in areas but it's all gone now Anyhow, time to get to work so I can ride this season. I fired them all up and they run nice, after some primer issues... ugh! I hate blowing into the darn gas tank. Got to check those lines. But I have a problem. Shifting the transmissions. To go from forward to reverse or hi to low I need to shut the sled off, shift, then restart to move. Otherwise the gears just start to grind horribly... and I don't want to break these trannys. I can't really see any type of adjustment for the shifter. Any ideas on what to look for or what I'm missing? These are the transmissions from the 89, 92, and 95 Alpine IIs with the 503R engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

on the alpine i had i could stop the trany with the brake then ease it in.. my brake broke once and i had to shut off the engine or grind alot.

Thanks, I had heard about using the brake to stop the clutch or making sure to be completely stopped, (ie. no motion). It sure looked like the clutch was stopped by my eyes and I definitely wasn't moving on the grass. I thought maybe I was missing something... and I was. I found my answer today from an old mechanic. He told me to check my belt, clutches, and alignment. If there is even the slightest load on the clutches, not actual movement but load, then it will grind away. I'll bet any amount of beer that those clutches have never been serviced or cleaned from day one! Now to see if the wife will let me play outside tonight...

I had a couple older Alpines and if the belt drags at all they will grind because it spins as soon as you go between the gears. I'm not sure about your newer ones but there is a small bearing in the clutch between both sides of the clutch pulley and I had one of them lock up and that made it grind wicked too the flat in the belt sort of runs across the bearing. Applying the brake can't hurt because it does tend to stop the drive side from turning . I drove mine for years and other then leaks I never had any issues with the transmission even though it did grind a bit.

Thanks, White Crow. I guess WE had other plans last night... not working on sleds. She's a good wife but has some strange priorities in life. Who needs a ceiling fan installed when we have clutches to look at? Regardless I had a quick peek this morning before I left for work and I noticed the belt looks tight. I've never touched Ski-doo clutches before... (just the P-word ones), but I don't think the belt should ride about 1/8" low in the secondary. We used to run ours about 1/16" above the sheave. I've got a buddy with some Ski-doo pullers and TRA tools, might need to barter some rum for experience. And buy the right belt!

Hi
on an Alpine what ever the year you need too stop the auxiliary cluch to turn to engage a new gear what ever it is reverse or forward.
this is not a syncronise transmission ,,excuse my english here .
they are robust and fragile too these transmission.
Also change the oil for the OEM Bombardier not the differentiel oil i have seen.they dont react the same at cold temperature .
Add some antifriction too but not too much just a spoon,like the wynns anifriction .
i used it in all my gear,,works great but not in syncronise tranny remember.

i still have 2 alpine tranny and one from scandik 1995 if someone need it.
good luck.bonne chance

gervais

What kind of sled is the 1995 Skandic tranny from? 1995 Skandic WT 500F (20"), or 1995 Skandic 380/500 (15")?

Merci Gervais, your english is pas de problem compared to my francais. Please send me a pm with what you want for an alpine tranny and your location. Merci beaucoup!

Hello,

I have a Skandic 1995 too, 139X 16 1/2, with a 503 in it and an Alpine 640 1982. Perhaps your trouble with the Alpine is because the motor run too fast at idle. Sure you have too put the break on to engage a new gear.

Bonne chance et bon hiver avec ton Alpine.