So I started to change out my track this afternoon, and got as far as taking out the gears and chain(I'm changing to a 19 tooth anyway) and I was wondering if there are any suggestions on the easiest/best way to remove the drive shaft/drivers on an XP. Any suggestions or pointers would be appreciated.
BTW, would it be better to go to a 19 tooth on the upper gear, or leave the 21 tooth upper, and switch the lower gear from 45 to 49? (this was suggested in Snow Tech Mag for 154"Summits) Any thoughts?
Thanks' in advance.

20 tooth top and stay with the 45 bottom. Get a shop manual it helps. The 4 torx head bolts are a MAJOR pita. They are hidden behind the brake rotor. Use heat to loosen the locktite or you will be dooing a lot of cussing. Once you get the 4 bolts out the bearing retainer rotates slightly in one direction about a half inch. Use a tie down strap around the seat and both sides of the track to help hold the track up and in place while you reassemble.

Mark

Separating the brake caliper from the bearing can be a pain in the neck. It helps if you have the special BRP tool, if you don't - then leave the bottom gear on and pry the caliper away from the tunnel to remove it from the bearing. Or place a strip of wood between the caliper and the tunnel, then get a piece of wood 2x2 about 18" long to beat on the drive shaft with. Like I said, PITN!

Do a search - it has been discussed several times, there a couple threads with picks and good descriptions. There might even be something in the XP FAQ section.

Good Luck

Heat up the brake caliper bracket at the bearing it should slide off without a lot of persuasion. At least mine did.

Thanks' for all the pointers. I am going for it tomorrow night. I will keep you posted on progress. Thanks' again.

TRACK CHANGE/ DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL

- remove suspension

Left Side:

- remove black caliper guard ( T25 torx )
- remove disc cover ( T30 )
- remove 4 bolts through disc holes ( T30 ) for 2008 (T40) 2009
- remove snap ring from disc
- remove little wire clip from calliper bolt/pin
- remove calliper bolt/pin
- remove pads
- slide disc off splines and calliper holder outward
- move caliper out of way a bit

Right Side:

- remove can
- remove chaincase cover
- back off chain tensioner
- remove snap ring and lower sprocket and chain

Under Sled:
- on left side turn bearing flange counter clockwise to unlock
- push track up into corner, slide axle to left, lower right side and remove
- assembly is opposite
- carefully replace axle into chaincase to avoid damage to seal
- blow out chaincase bolt holes, wipe bolt threads and use antiseize.

Hey Avycital, awesome instructions! You should write the race manuals. Thanks' much! This is a big help.

If your careful, you don't have to take the pads off the caliper. There is enough room to slide the rotor disc out when you bring the caliper outward.

Just make sure you guys do not pry on the rotor itself. It will bend it and cause the dreaded left foot vibration. Ask me how I know, my dealer did the recall shaft,before dropping it off no vibration. After shaft was replaced there was left foot vibration. Found this summer when I replaced the track, I had the sled running on the stand and aligning the track,with no brake cover on, I could see the thing wobble back and forth. Took it back apart and straightened the rotor and the wobble is gone.
I did purchase another rotor,but have not installed it as of yet.

Another reason why the rotor caliper is so hard to remove from the shaft the first time is, Skidoo does not use any anti seize. When putting the the caliper back on the shaft, use anti seize, when you have to remove the caliper again it is a piece of cake and no puller required.
I think with 2 people on the job,the track swap would be only about an hours work, very easy deal.

NP Good luck once you do it 1 or 2 times it goes fast

got a little tip i used when changing my track..

i dont have a caliper puller and didnt feel like getting one so i did it the old fashioned way.

once the calpier is free from the tunnel, its possible to get a prybar between the caliper and tunnel, only problem is the tunnel bends.

because i had to pry it off somehow (no help from a puller) i decided to reinforce the tunnel. there were some little odd ends of wood, 2x4's plywood..whatever. i wedged odds and ends in between the tunnel and the track driver, which is on the drive axle in which your track wraps around under the tunnel (if you didnt know). eventually with some minor modifications to the little wood blocks and pieces i made a solid brace between the aluminum tunnel brace and the left track driver.

take note: when putting the pieces up against the driver, try to find a little 1x2 inch type of piece, so it goes up against the round flush part of the driver, not the teeth that turn the track. this is the part of the driver that is closest to the axle. this way there is not as much leverage on the driver and chances of breaking the teeth off are eliminated. (dont put the blocks up against the teeth on the driver, you dont want to snap those off!!!)

now if you put a 5 foot prybar on the caliper on the outside now, and break the driver inside, do not blame me..i was gentle with mine.

i also took a propane torch and heated the caliper and driveshaft from the outside of the tunnel, and sprayed lots of penetrating oil in.

also, do not keep prying on the same spot, as its possible to cock the caliper sideways on the shaft..PITN i know

one other thing, get a small piece of plywood..like a 2x6 inch piece and put it between your SMALL prybar and tunnel when prying.

HAPPY RIDING