i can take it out in a long field. thing will run good for a few passes, then i will go into the corner and get back on the gas WOT and the rpms will hang around 6800-7000 and stay there. sled sounds like its over heating and retarding the timing. i can slow way down and feather it out and it will be good for another 4 or 5 passes before it does it again. really frustrating for trail riding. and it only does it every few passes, not everytime so i dont know where to go with it. its my buddies so im not sure whats in it for jetting i think its stock other than the mains...i wanna say they're 270's. has the same clutching as the 08 SDI.

There are 2 things I wld do. Replace the belt and reset the TPS.

also plug the sight line if it's an 08

It doesnt sound like a bog so much tho.

true i would say TPS. TPS has a funny way of messing with the sled. On my 09 TPS is usually at 3* at idle, for whatever reason it changed again and had to be reset. Back to 3* again.

we reset both sleds b4 every race day..like friday and sat. night...it is that temper mental..why risk it...

I would be willing to bet there is metal particles in the fuel. Mine did the exact same thing you are describing. It would stick the needle open in the needle jet and hold the throttle open. Very uncomforting and scary. Take the carbs off and see if there is particles in the bowls and scoring on the needles. You'll need to drain the tank (dealers were supposed to do this), drain and clean the carbs and all the fuel lines and pump. I would suggest placing a fuel filter in-line too. What is the serial number on the sled. <700?
I ended up draining the tank and it still did it after too. I had BRP warranty the tank because we decided the fuel must be releasing the particles that somehow got impregnated into the tank. Hasn't done it since.
It looked like metal slag and was ferrous. How that crap got in there, nobody knows.
Anyway, if you find some talk to your dealer. It was a recall.

Hydrored, you have the best avatar's! I liked your last one the best, but the new ones still good

skippyd it's common that moderators delete my avatars.My next one will be a pregnant woman smoking a cigarette and drinking a beer.

hahahaha, nice!

love the mullet on her! Redneck living!

It is always a good idea to verify your carbs are clean....do this, but I think your ears are correct that the sled is retarding the timing and overheating.

To find the problem and fix it, involves starting at one end and testing everything. Cleaning the carbs is the easiest and cheapest thing. Be sure to check often overlooked things like the gasket on the float bowl....mine had a small cut all the way through it and it sucked air. Be certain to check the power jet to verify it is clear. Etc, etc.

Be sure you have enough octane in the fuel. Add more if in doubt.

Replace the air temp sensor....they are less than $20. Mine went out last year and did EXACTLY what yours is doing.

Be sure the floats are set so they let enough fuel in. You may considering measuring both and setting them 1/2mm deeper....sure they may dump fuel, but you can eliminate this cause...we saw it a lot last year.

I would bet my last bisquit that your problem is listed above. Keep us posted.

i misread your original post. read it as saying it was stuck at 6800-7000. my bad.

Mine does the exact same thing. It was intermittanly doing this as I was trail riding last weekend. Most of the time it would happen while crossing a lake when blipping the throttle it would all of the sudden hang up at around 7000 then go away after a few more blips and run fine. It would also happen sometimes while riding the trails, just out of nowhere hang up then be back to normal. After filling the sled up at a gitgo in Land o lakes I was leading coming down a 1/4 mile strait and maybe had it pinned for 3-5 seconds and the engine light came on and my egt reading said it was at 2019 degrees!! I shut her down and checked the plugs..looked fine..let the sled cool down and had to ride approx 50 miles back to the cabin. It ran fine but the engine light remained on and the guage was stuck at 2019 degrees egt reading the whole ride back. The sled would make 4 short beeps every minute or so and would flash check engine across the screen? I am certain the fuel was bad as a buddy that filled up his 08 IQ was experiencing a strange bog as well after filling up. The bog was there before the last fill of seemingly bad fuel, but is there a correlation of the two? How do I get the EGT to clear the 2019 reading?

TTT

whats the TPS because my sled seems to be doing the same thing i thought it was just jetting but
ive dropped jet and still no better

my sled did something like this also. i would have to let off the gas and feather back in. how do i reset the TPS?

Thanks for all the advice...i wired up the harness and reset the tps (kind of cool how that works) and went for a 30 mile ride. Sled was still doing the same, just not as often. I think it definately needs some clutch work, but i dont think thats whats causing the original problem. I am going to go through the other list of things and try to figure something out. I took the sled back yesterday so I'm going to go get it again right now and play around tonight.

For all i know he could be running 87 octane...he has checked the carbs a few times but i dont know if the plugs have ever been looked at. We'll see I'll keep everyone posted.

How did you reset the TPS Im tryin to reset mine and i have no idea

There is a harness connected to a plug on the plate above the chaincase(diagnostic connector).You have to supply this harness with 12v power.Brp sell a special harness for that (P/N 529 035 869 and 529 035 997).
The instrument cluster will light up (same as the engine is running)
After it as bipped, hold the throttle wot and press the holeshot button and hold it.
The check engine light will light up when the adjustment is complete.
Release the throttle and the holeshot button.
disconnect power supply.
If you don t want to buy the harness, you can make a homemade one.You have to connect 12v power positve lead to the red/blue wire and negative lead to the black wire of the diagnostic connector.