Hi all, I could use some pointers, while installing the Ypipe what is the trick to getting to the bottom inside bolts? Also this install went south while removing the bolt on the chain case to install the bracket for the can's spring the bolt broke, so after using a tap to try for a fix the back of the crank case slit so I am now looking to replace the back crank case. The case had never been taken of since the sled shipped from the factory???So now I am in the process of removing the back crank case and in order to get it off you must remove the track to get it out to install a new one. Here is the problem, I am trying to remove the driveshaft and I am unable to remove the brake caliper it appears its rusted tight, and I missing something in removing the brake caliper from the dive shaft or should it just slide off?

After really digging into this sled its a beast to work on and finding out the weight saving really lacked the quality the crank case is very thin... hopefully my mistake saves someone on this one....

Ideas on the drive shaft??

thanks

I haven't worked on the xp's yet but I like using the rounded off allen key bits that are about 4" long on my rev. They come with an attachment for a 3/8" drive. Chain case issue sucks but a hili-coil might work if the case is thick enough.

Helicoil could do the trick. Do a search on brake removal, there are some tricks, and they can be buggers. Some Heat has been recommended, too, I believe, to break the threadlocker.

They are made out of Magnesium and are VERY fragile. They all most feel like you could blow them apart! I would hate to be the leg on the first chain to explode

Cheers
Shawn

You heard about the recall to replace all '08 drive shafts... maybe you can load it up and take it to your dealer and let them take it out...

I have heard about the drive shaft recalls, I am just my dealer wouldnt work on a sled have put together.... thanks for the replys thus far will do a search on brake removal

I removed my drive shaft last year to plug weld it. The brake rotor is a bit of a bitch. I used a little heat at first but to no avail. I was worried I would get someting too hot. The solution I found was lots of WD-40 and patience. Soak it down and leave it for 10 minutes.Start working the rotor back and forth. More WD-40 and more working it back and forth.It will start to loosen slowly. Upon assembly, use a little anti-sieze. This will make it easier the next time for you or the new owner. In regards to your chain case bolts, I think a heli coil will be your best option. There is not alot of room to use a larger bolt. I removed all my bolts and replaced them with a high quality(grade 5) bolt. I also use anti sieze on these b/c the threads can pull out. I have seeen this on all brands of sleds. Corrosion binds the threads and since they are aluminum/magnesium , the threads are not as strong as steel.Hope this helps

WNR

Utahman

Where are located in Utah?
I have removed a few XP drive shaft, If you are not to far from me I might be able to help you.

Hi all, I talked with my dealer today and they said they will warrenty the chain case I guess there is a know problem with these bolts breaking/stripping, so I am waiting for parts at this point.

Thanks you all so much for taking the time to write and help me out on this issue. I specail thanks Snoman357 for pointing out the chain case issue you saved me 300bucks

Thanks to you all..

Its the dealers problem now......

x2 on skidoox's "?" - where in utah are you?
looks like your doing okay with the warranty issues-driveshaft, chaincase bolts,etc.
just a thought....if your chaincase has never been off, you may need to do the top re-gear that was warrantied last year as well. i dont see what length your XP is.... 146 should have a 21 top gear, 154 should have a 19, i think the 163's were right from the factory?? (i think???)
on the bottom allen screws on your Y-pipe - i took a regular 90 degree allen wrench and cut off the short end so it is only about 1/2 " long. now it will fit in there. lots of others used the "ball" end type allen wrench. that works good too. you can come straight in from the front of the sled, use an extension or ratchet, and get to em pretty easy that way.
good luck....

The Y Pipe bolts are cap screws and will be less of a headache to remove if you use a knuckle adapter.