Tried something different with alignment, looking for some feedback or theory Options

[THEFROG]

Well I have had pretty good luck with my 154 X, only started to loose cord on one belt after 600 miles. Heading out to the Bear tomorrow and had a idea to try to move the engine to see if any difference was made.

I have read a quite a few threads about guys moving the engine rearward and in to help compensate for the clutch alignment problem. As I loosened the three mounts (two fronts and the rear left) I got to thinking that when you move it rearward and in you are decreasing the center to center distance and also that will be increased even further when the engine is twisting under load. I got our a straight edge and set it across the primary clutch and compared it to the seconday and found that they were not square and would be even worse when the engine twists.

I decided to move the engine forward and out , by doing this I have nearly squared the clutches to each other and have increased the center to center distance to help with the belt deflection. Now by doing this I have possible put the clutches out of alignment more, but I cannot tell for sure but I am hoping that the twist of the engine will bring them into alignment and be closer to square than thery ever were.

The belt looks to sit in the clutches better and seems to more a natural curve to it instead of a curve with a twist. I also removed the torque stop and installed two o-rings under each of the two positioning studs to tightened the gap between the mount and the stop to help prevent any excessive engine twisting.

I will be riding this wednesday with stock clutching to see what happens, worse case scenerio is that I blow a belt right away and BRP buys me a new one so I really have nothing to loose. It is easy to put back to the way it was shipped and only takes about a half hour to do this.

What do you guys think? I think it will decrease heat from less deflection under load and the alignment thing I am not to worried about because it is not too bad compared to stock, but the belt is definately tighter.

-Frog

[teeroy]

there's gotta be 10 threads on this engine relocation thing, doesn't anybody have a fricken camera? in, out, forward, back.....if you're gonna try something, take a pic and explain what you did rather than count on us retards to try to picture it in our minds. if we understand what you did, then we can tell you if you're full of chit or not.

no disrespect intended Frog...

sorry, rant over....

[AK-Rider]

HA! I was thinking the same thing. But I refrained from posting because I didn't take any pics when I moved mine...

[justdoo-it]

yup im behind . i was thinking how im a moron and need pictures and youve already moved yours

[Idahodoo]

I checked the clutch alignment and it was not even close!!

• “Z” Distance was 19.35 should be 21mm
• “X” Offset was 33mm should be 37.1mm
• “X-Y Difference was .75mm should be 1.62mm

This is what I done to get it within spec.

• Loosened all motor mount bolts 6-10mm head & 3-13mm head (wrench size)
• Installed torque stop I made from rubber mounting feet I had laying around. (Cut male end off mount)
• Milled some off the top of stock torque stop (the one that is mounted with 3 bolts) so the top bolt would thread into female part of side torque mount I made.
• Removed shim under front motor mount, moved motor around till everything looked good & tightened everything down and rechecked alignment, I did this several times before I was happy.
• Cleaned sticky pins & arm bushings.
• Installed 415 ramps & added another 12mm set screw weighed & balanced arms so they were the same.

After this I went for a test ride, WOW runs great and pulls hard, 8000 to 8200 RPMs on clicker 3. Runs way better than it did before, RPMs still fluctuates but I have DJs clutch kit on the way to fix that problem.

With good alignment and my vents I could leave my hands on my clutches after several hard long pulls up a steep hill.

Here are some photos:

Attached File(s)

 dirty_pins___arm_bushings.jpg ( 17.62K ) Number of downloads: 8
 Rubber_Torque_stop.jpg ( 31.25K ) Number of downloads: 13
 Rubber_mount.jpg ( 9.5K ) Number of downloads: 8
 numbered_arms.jpg ( 22.17K ) Number of downloads: 8

 

[winter brew]

Alignment should be fixed by the dealer under warranty, should it not?? If it doesn't meet mfr specs???

[NewfieRider440]

I was thinking the same thing winter brew.

[Hoots]

Exactly as I did. Not a thread from 166 orange on over 400 deep pow mi. Asked dealer mech. about alignment & recieved answer - Can't change alignment on this sled. Don't have any XYZ measurements as you can't change it any way. Loosening just the front mounts, I was able to change it alot, even enough to take out all the dogleg & a little more for engine torque. Also helped w/C to C gaining some deflection adjustment.

[THEFROG]

there's gotta be 10 threads on this engine relocation thing, doesn't anybody have a fricken camera? in, out, forward, back.....if you're gonna try something, take a pic and explain what you did rather than count on us retards to try to picture it in our minds. if we understand what you did, then we can tell you if you're full of chit or not.

no disrespect intended Frog...

sorry, rant over....

No problem, but I do not carry a camera with me every place I go. When I did this it was kind of a unplanned thing. I agree with pics but I do not have any. Sorry.

-Frog

[Idahodoo]

Alignment should be fixed by the dealer under warranty, should it not?? If it doesn't meet mfr specs???

I was thinking the same thing winter brew.

Yes it should, I just wanted it done so I did it!! Dealer mechanic told me there is nothing wrong with my alignment!! So I didn’t even waist my time taking it to them!!

[AK-Rider]

Alignment should be fixed by the dealer under warranty, should it not?? If it doesn't meet mfr specs???

Yes, it SHOULD. But I don't expect dealers to make any adjustments, since the official word is that there isn't any alignment adjustment possible on these sleds. When I took my sled in after my first belt blew, I was told that my alignment checked out OK, even though there was an obvious dogleg in the belt between the clutches. After a few new belts and no update from BRP, I decided that I needed to look at adjusting it myself...

[Idahodoo]

Yes it should, I just wanted it done so I did it!! Dealer mechanic told me there is nothing wrong with my alignment!! So I didn't even waist my time taking it to them!!

Yes, it SHOULD. But I don't expect dealers to make any adjustments, since the official word is that there isn't any alignment adjustment possible on these sleds. When I took my sled in after my first belt blew, I was told that my alignment checked out OK, even though there was an obvious dogleg in the belt between the clutches. After a few new belts and no update from BRP, I decided that I needed to look at adjusting it myself...

TTT

[THEFROG]

Just got back from the Big Horns and the sled worked very well. Clutches were warm but definately not hot and belt held up great for 200 miles of powder riding, no cords or anything. Recieved 2 ft of snow while there and sled did not miss a beat except for the intake plugging constantly but that is an easy fix. Running 13.8 gr of weight with all other components stock. Needs stiffer secondary spring but held 8000-8100 on long pulls on clicker #5. The last day I held the throttle pinned for 10 miles in conditions changing from packed trail to powder filled ditches to try to blow belt and it did not miss a beat. Very happy and very anxious to try the new belt for comparson. Sled had 20T top and I weigh about 210 lbs.


-Frog

[AK-Rider]

That's promising, but your first belt lasted 600 miles, right? Notice any difference in wear at this point?

[kenkinak]

Just got back from the Big Horns and the sled worked very well. Clutches were warm but definately not hot and belt held up great for 200 miles of powder riding, no cords or anything. Recieved 2 ft of snow while there and sled did not miss a beat except for the intake plugging constantly but that is an easy fix. Running 13.8 gr of weight with all other components stock. Needs stiffer secondary spring but held 8000-8100 on long pulls on clicker #5. The last day I held the throttle pinned for 10 miles in conditions changing from packed trail to powder filled ditches to try to blow belt and it did not miss a beat. Very happy and very anxious to try the new belt for comparson. Sled had 20T top and I weigh about 210 lbs.


-Frog

sounds like a good trip !!!! you made 600 miles on your last belt i dont think id be talking about this if i could get that??? that about what i get a year

your gear down / pin weight helped you going with a 20 top not bad pulls pretty hard i bet