From G-man and Rev Kev (thanks):
The Napa part no. is AR201 which supercedes AR316.
The 316 has the mount tab while the 201 does not but is hard to find now that it is obsolete.
I'm sure there are other part numbers that work so feel free to add to this thread.
This is a very common problem so why not carry a spare for some added security.
Symptoms: lights go out, tach and speedo quit working but the sled still runs.
The relay is located right above your secondary clutch on the frame.
Advantage Auto has the same relay with the mounting tab. It is RY-115. I used it on mine.
The Napa part no. is AR201 which supercedes AR316.
The 316 has the mount tab while the 201 does not but is hard to find now that it is obsolete.
I'm sure there are other part numbers that work so feel free to add to this thread.
This is a very common problem so why not carry a spare for some added security.
Symptoms: lights go out, tach and speedo quit working but the sled still runs.
The relay is located right above your secondary clutch on the frame.
[/quote]
You can also use NAPA Echlin # AR143,2years ago a guy brought the O.E. Doo one in and IF memory serves me right the O.E.# crossed over.The AR143 DOES have a mount tab,but that does not really matter.The bottom line is that a few different relays will work for the same application.
Can anyone tell me the part number on the OEM relay (not the ski-doo part number, I can look that up) on a NON SDI sled. I suspect it will be something like NAIS CB1-M-12V but I' don't own a NON SDI sled.
To answer the SDI question above, the NON SDI relay has a bracket, the SDI one doesn't because it's in the fuse panel compartment. Are they the same, I'm trying to compare the specs to see if that's the only difference, that's why I need the NON SDI part number on the OEM relay itself.
You're kidding right, instead of a toll kit these things should come with a tool box. Where is the spare relay holder on the sled. Is it next to the spare plug holder ?
For all you Canadians (which I am ha ha) try Parts Source #RL36621 or Canadian Tire #23-7066, there the same people & parts just a different name, $6.99 & yes there's one in my tool kit. I'm in the dark enough without having relay problem.Ken
are the mentioned relays for sdi sleds only? my buddy has a 2002 legend 600 and told me he started it the other day and had no dash instruments or lights worked but ran good. Is it different for the zx or do they use/have the same wiring? Thanks.
I had this problem last year with my 03 MXZ 800...what a pain in the arse!!
It turned out not to be the relay (after about 10 on them), it was the stator. A lot of people have also said it was the stator so if the relay doesn't work, plan on spending a bit more cash!
Untrue, a better quality relay will have Nickle -vs- copper Contacts, and a higher Quality Relay will hava a diode in the coil windings, resulting in better clamping of the contacts, and longer life. A better Quality Relay will also have a Higher Amp Rating, of 30 to 40 amp -vs- 15 to 20 amps on a cheaper Relay. Now Better Quality does not always mean Higher Price (like the Doo relay)
>>Not if you are refering to the Pin number. Also the higher amp relays useally have the higher Quality Contacts.<<
IC!
The AR201 has 3 copper and 2 nickel pins and is rated 20 amps. Don't know for certain but would guess the AR143 has all nickel pins and is rated 30 amps and would be the better choice (not to mention it has the mounting tab).
Thanks Rev Kev!
G
PS - Also the RY116 from CarQuest and other auto stores cross referneces with AR201 according to Napa.
i think you all are confused as to what that diode is supposed to do.. not all high quality relays have this diode. All this diode does is keep you from hooking it up backwards for one.. second it keeps 85 and 86 from sending current to eachother. in an automotive enviroment this can be a good thing, but is not always necessary. Also the diodes do lower the voltage going to the contacts to actually latch the relay. Don't know if this would lower the clamp or not..
oh, and a 20amp relay and a 30amp relay both require about the same amount of current to trigger them. But a 20amp cannot hold as much current as the 30amp, obviously. 40 amp seems a bit excessive, and any larger of a rating the relay will be larger and with different contacts.
either way, just buy a new relay, if you need it.. I personally have had no problems with mine.
also, whatever happened to just using bosch relays?
You can also use NAPA Echlin # AR143,2years ago a guy brought the O.E. Doo one in and IF memory serves me right the O.E.# crossed over.The AR143 DOES have a mount tab,but that does not really matter.The bottom line is that a few different relays will work for the same application.
[/quote]
Upon further review I discovered that the Echlin part # AR204 would probably be the best to use for the following reasons.It's a Continuous Duty Relay,is 20 Amps,And has either a Resistor/Diode in it.Terminals 30-87A N.C. 20 Amp, Terminals 30-87 N.O.50Amp. The Echlin AR143 has a built in Resistor,but I have to wait until Tuesday to call the Echlin Tech Line to find out the Amp Rating,The darn book or web site don't tell me. The Echlin AR201 is the same as the AR204 EXCEPT it has NO Resistor/Diode built in & the 204 has a mount tab where as the 201 does not.I also want to find out what they tell me the difference between the resistor and diode is,because I believe a Diode only stops current from back feeding vs.a resistor which lowers the voltage passing thru.
You can also use NAPA Echlin # AR143,2years ago a guy brought the O.E. Doo one in and IF memory serves me right the O.E.# crossed over.The AR143 DOES have a mount tab,but that does not really matter.The bottom line is that a few different relays will work for the same application.
Upon further review I discovered that the Echlin part # AR204 would probably be the best to use for the following reasons.It's a Continuous Duty Relay,is 20 Amps,And has either a Resistor/Diode in it.Terminals 30-87A N.C. 20 Amp, Terminals 30-87 N.O.50Amp. The Echlin AR143 has a built in Resistor,but I have to wait until Tuesday to call the Echlin Tech Line to find out the Amp Rating,The darn book or web site don't tell me. The Echlin AR201 is the same as the AR204 EXCEPT it has NO Resistor/Diode built in & the 204 has a mount tab where as the 201 does not.I also want to find out what they tell me the difference between the resistor and diode is,because I believe a Diode only stops current from back feeding vs.a resistor which lowers the voltage passing thru.
Just an FYI... the AR204 did not work in my 05 800PT Gade. Put it in and still dead. I then put in a Borg Warner R681 and everything came back to life.
Like, ALL of them! Honestly, my 2003 MXZ Summit went out and pulled the one from my Rev to see for certain, sure enough. And ALL of the are the SAME relay including the SDI's. If you own a late model SkiDoo you NEED a spare. TRUST ME!
I do it now and recommend it. It sucks to blow a replay in Northern Ontario and the dealers didn't have any instock...and wouldn't sell me one out of their new sleds.
Why are most problems on a sled a problem.....COST.
It all boils down to the almighty dollar. They could sell you one that woudn't fail but it would cost too much for most. To keep the cost down they sell you a OK part that gets the job done...most of the time.
I'm pretty sure vibration and electrical surges are the two biggest factors in wear on a relay. Just plain copper can corrode from the sparking and contaminents. The better relays are made with coated parts. If it was made from a beryllium copper and gold plated it would last a very long time.
Beryllium copper is a ductile, weldable, and machinable alloy. It is resistant to non-oxidizing acids (for example, hydrochloric acid, or carbonic acid), to plastic decomposition products, to abrasive wear and to galling. Furthermore, it can be heat-treated to improve its strength, durability, and electrical conductivity.
I tried to upload the actual spec sheet for the SDI relay, but DooTalk says I cant for some reason. I get the following error:
The total filespace required to upload all the attached files is greater than your per post or global limit. Please reduce the number of attachments or the size of the attachments.
If someone can upload it, let me know and I will email the spec sheet to you for posting for all to see. It is a pdf file and is only 118K in size.
how can u tell if your relay has a diode? do u need a diode? will it show on the schematic on the relay?
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